what would be a good rear end to have that is much stronger than stock?

 

There are a few things that can be done to the stock 10-bolt to beef it up. I have personally seen cars run low 11's on 10-bolts, but some people will never be convinced. Of course you can always get a Ford 9" or a 12-bolt.

 

yeah, i'm not even sure why i need to get rid of mine; after all it works good. what would be some reasons....or advantages in otherwords?

 

Moser's 28 spline axles are suppose to be 30% stronger than the stock ones. Also, i guess an Eaton posi and some Richmond gears would make for a pretty strong 10 bolt.

 

9 bolt

9 bolt

9 bolt

 

I have the moser 28 splined axles, SLP gears/posi, and an aluminum cover with studs. I dont count on it lasting me, so I'm swapping to a 9 in ford before I break it. The 9 bolt is stronger stock, but it doesnt have any aftermarket options.

 

Actually, A LOT stronger and there are now some aftermarket parts available and more are on the way. Visit www.9bolt.com for all the info.

Miles
Diff Solutions
www.9bolt.com

 

9" 9" 9" Check these housing out, Its very hard to break a ford 9" rearend. I've had a Currie unit in one of my daily drivers for eight years now and running strong and looking great with every gearoil change and inspection. Its a 4000+ lb vehicle with just over 300 hp.http://www.currieenterprises.com/htm...thBrackets.htm

 

I have both the 9" and the 12 bolt. Going to go with the 12 bolt chevy.

 

could you explain why??


what would 600 rear horses do to a stock rear?

 

hehe try it and let us know....

just kidding, it would almost certainly break the gears, if it was an open differential the spider gears would destroy themselves first....if it was posi youd probably break either the side gears or the ring and pinion, and of course the axles might go first too....

you can run fast on a 10-bolt, but if you add up the cost of replacing everything in a 10-bolt with parts that can handle the power, your better off buying a bolt in 12-bolt from strange or slp etc. Also, i tend to think that any 10-bolts that claim to be hitting 10's with no problem are of the 8.5" variety.....and if they arent its just extremely good luck

 

Simple reason... The 9 is a stronger rear end but I need the centersection. The 12 is complete. just need ring and pinion and axles cut. And the ladder bar kit is made for the Chevy. 12 bolt is plenty strong enought to hold up to 10's.
Bob

 

I have personally owned two F-bodies with Moser 9" rears, and installed a couple in other people's cars too, along with a Moser 12 bolt in one other. You can't go wrong with either, to a point, but ultimately the 9" is stronger and easier to upgrade later (say, if you go from NA to a power adder and want numerically higher gears...you just remove and sell your existing one, and replace it with the correct ratio vs having to set up another rear and being left with a used set of gears). There are nearly infinite gear ratio choices, and more diff choices than any other rear out there. I'm about to order another one for my 85 TA. Dont waste your money on a 10 bolt, if you're going to race the car on anything but street tires and are planning to make some HP.

 

do plan to make horse power, want the ability to race; but it's not a main purpose.

strictly a good, hard running street car.....

 

9 Bolt if you want to spend $300-$400

12 Bolt or 9" if you want to spend $2000+

Less (~$1200) IF you can find a used one with the neccesary bracketry to use on your car.

I just bought a 9-Bolt myself, probly the best way to go as long as you aren't pushing over 600 HP and aren't running slicks.

 

looking at a little over 500 hp, and runnin 16x32 slicks

 

that's just it, i plan to run a minimum of 600.........but for the first year i'll be more like 5. i don't want to have to buy 2 different ones for each upgrade you know.

 

A lot of the cost is in the center section...the basic housing/axle package from Moser is like $795 (includes the torque arm bracket), adding drain/fill plugs (not standard) is about another $100, and then the center could be anything between $50 for a Pull-A-Part special to $12-1300 for an all new nodular or aluminum cased unit. My first one, which used a stock carrier, a new Auburn pro posi, and 4.56s was about $700 new out of National Dragster...my second one (for another car) was about $1200 (Moser nodular case, soft locker, 4.11s). You could get by with the stock type case at 5-600hp.

Compare apples to apples though...put custom axles in any 9/10 bolt...at least $250

Gears and bearings...$275

New posi... $300+

setup...$200+

All that for a rearend that "might" hold up for a while? Not me.