max_est

I've read many posts, but there's many opinions. Some says, that it lasts, other says that it does'nt.

I have V6 to mild 350TPI (300hp) swap in progress. I have T5 (probably WC) in my '89 Camaro. So question is, should I leave T5 there or put TH700-R4 in.

How much torque T5 lasts? Have anybody experienced that?

How big PITA is TH700 swap? Theres issuses like clutch pedal, speedometer (cable, VSS), crossmember, shifter, console (interior) etc???

92blue

iTrader: (1)

It seems like it depends on how you treat (or mistreat) the T5. Some guys have been running it behind a 406 and it has hold up fine for some time. Then again, some guys are breaking them with 305s. It should at the very least last you a decent while if you don't abuse it.

As far as swapping over to a 700r4, I am just thinking off the top of my head....so I'll probably forget something. You would need to replace the manual pedals with some automatic pedals. You need to somehow install the automatic shifter onto the transmission tunnel. On auto cars, there is a bracket welded onto the transmission tunnel from the factory. You would have to mimic that somehow to install the shifter.

The driveshaft you have now will work fine, but I'm not sure about the transmission crossmember. At worst, the one you have now won't work and you would have to get one from an automatic.

I'm not sure what you would have to do with the torque converter lockup....I think the harness for a manual car is different, and if it is, then you wouldn't have the connector for the torque converter lockup.

Theres more to it...I can't think right now....

I would rather look into a stronger manual transmission than go through the hassle of swapping in an automatic. It is a major pain in the ***. I've never done it, but I have converted from auto to T56 and that was really annoying.

92blue

iTrader: (1)

Just thought of one more thing. You need to get some oil cooler lines. They run from the passenger side of the tranny over to the radiator. I think manual cars have the fittings on the radiator, they just have them plugged up. Not sure though, so double check that.

max_est

Thank U 92blue! Anyone else?

L98IROCZ89

T5--->T56

It will hold the power of a 350TPI and the fun factor will be way higher than that of an auto. In addition, becuase of the close ratio gears in the T56, provided you knwo how to drive, the T56 will be faster than the 700R4 (the 3.06 - 1.90 drop from 1st to 2nd is bad).

92blue

iTrader: (1)

I agree with L98IROCZ89. If you like driving a manual, I think you would like a stronger manual better than a 700R4. Look into a T56, or an aftermarket Richmond tranny. The swap to an automatic sounds like too much of a pain in the *** to me to be worth the effort, but a stronger manual would be pretty expensive. To give you an idea, I think your cheapest option would be an OEM T56. That would cost you about 1400-1500 for most of what you need. So figure about 1750 total, maybe a little less. That will get you a tranny that will hold 450 ft lbs of torque if its 94-97, and 400 if its a 93.

Kingtal0n

for the price of an OEM replacement T-56 you can have a fully built-to-the-max 700R4. just a thought.

As for the swap... Its easier going from manual to auto than from auto to manual... for the simple reasons you dont need to worry about a clutch/hydroulic assembly setup / clutch pedal / throwout bearing clearances etc...

Going to auto is pretty straight forward, but not simple either.
The tranny will bolt up the same, but you will need a flexplate instead of flywheel. A torque converter takes the place of the pressureplate/clutch/throwoutbearing/clutchfork etc...
You will need to run tranny cool lines, I used some from pep-boys I found in the back and bent them (slowly... evenly) to run to the front of the car where I put my $40. B&M tranny cooler. that takes care of cooling it off..
Crossmember? I welded a small piece onto the existing one and drilled a hole for the tranny mount. You may or may not have to do this, my manual was a Muncie 4-speed.
Pedals? Just leave em alone. I left my clutch pedal in, I may use it again somtime. gas and brake dont even touch.
TV-cable.. set it up corectly. otherwise... BOOM!
Shifter? get an aftermarket like a B&M ratchet shifter. Thats what I use, a bit of a pain to install (2 hours) but otherwise works great. I love it. (mega-shifter)
Eh, driveshaft should work. would have it balanced however if it is OEM. just a thought.

Here this is what I wrote about the 4-speed to TH350 swap. It salmost the same thing, except what I noted above.
I Just did the swap from a 4-speed muncie to a TH350. The car was originally a 700R4 though, and i can tell you there are a few things to worry about.
#1: Overlooked ALOT... Crossmember. My crossmember was 1 inch away from the tranny mount, making it impossible to mount the tranny.... if you HAVE a OEM T-5 crossmember it should work with no changes however. Should.
Fix: I welded a 3 inch piece of Metal that stuck out far enough, and drilled a hole where the tranny mount wanted to be.
#2: Driveshaft... For me it was about 3 inches too short. Since its good to have it balanced whenever possible, i took it to driveline specialists to be balanced and lengthened. If you have the money look into an aluminum driveshaft, but from what i heard its not worth the extra money if you already HAVE a driveshaft. Your existing yolk and universals should work, (mine didnt, but remember my tranny WAS a muncie, not a 700R4)
#3: Torque arm. there are 2 ways to do this, one way is spending the $79.99 from jegs and getting the new Torque arm bracket holder (you will have to use your old torque arm bracket tho). The way I did it was make a bracket that went from the mount (over the crossmember, under the tranny mount) and made a Zig-Zag to the Torque arm, then i Welded a piece of metal to hold the torque arm bracket. THis works well, but it was a pain in the @$$, not to mention it was hitting the driveshaft universals (i cut a piece off to fix that) and the bolt is way up top so its hard to remove whenever you want. IF youve got the money... $79.99 is a good price to save yourself the hassle. I didnt have the money. I just have a welder.
#4: get a new shifter. the stock one sucks, and you will enjoy a better shifter. I got a B&M Megashifter. I love it. Comes with the cable and bracket and all you need for a shifter. DONT LOSE THE SCREWS IT COMES WITH! I found out the hard way...
#5: Sigh, The flexplate. buy a new one thats BALANCED or you will rattle yourself to death. its cheak (mine was like $80.00) and WORTH IT!!!!!! especially the light ones, (lighter is better!!) FOLLOW THE TORQUE SPECS! 60 Ft.Lbs. IS ALL YOU NEED. MORE = CRACK!!!
#6: good torque converter for sure, get a 10 Inch, screw the 12's. if the engine is stock, get a slightly higher stall converter (over 2000RPMS) if its highly modified, get a Street fighter from TCI or somthing close. Its high stall (3200-3800 RPM) is perfect for a cammed engine that idles around 1200 RPMs like mine, and makes power at about 2500 RPMS - 6000.
#7: Good torque converter bolts.. ONLY USE ARP!!!! trust me, you will thank yourself. spend the $10.00 and get some ARP Bolts for the Torque converter... there are only 3 to hold it to the flywheel, and if only 1 comes loose... goodbye everything. i would use locktite, not nessessary, (65 Ft.Lbs. IS necessary) but locktite would set your mind at ease. I didnt use it cause Im forever swapping out torque conveters and trannys it seems. this is my 3rd tranny in 4 months. hopefully ill leave this one in, and it wont blow up. it was built right.
#8: put a shift kit in it, TCI makes a Cheap one and it comes with Valve body springs, (unlike B&M). its cheap, and it will last. If you have the money, obviouselly go with Trans-go. but if you only got $26.00 like i did, get the TCI kit. I never installed a shift kit before, but this only took me 1 hour. tons of bolts later, a plate, 3 gaskets, 5 springs, and 4 checkballs i was done. INSTALL IT OUTSIDE THE CAR getting those checkballs to stay put is HARD when its under a car... they keep falling out cause of gravity or whatever.
#...? make sure you get at least 5 Bellhousing bolts in. I couldnt get the #2 bolt on the driver side in cause there was no room. the bellhousing it kinda what holds all the power from the engine to keep your tranny from spinning circles and falling apart and stuff... very important... look where they attach and figure out if your goina have enough room to put them all in!!I had to remove the tranny and hammer some of the metal out of the way so i could fit an extension swivel and socket up on top to tighten the bolts.
#10: TRANNY SEALS: Before putting converter on tranny make sure you LUBRICATE (with tranny fluid) and converter and the tranny shaft alot, so it doesnt rip the seal apart. and put 1 Quart of fluid IN THE TORQUE CONVERTER. I didnt do this, maybe it didnt hurt anything, but i found out later i was suposed to. fair warning.

I later went to a 700R4 and it sort of fell into place, except the driveshaft... and the crossmember.. oh yeah and the...

max_est

Thank U guys! I got very important information!