Does anyone have any info on the replacement of the tailshaft bushing. I have a feeling the whinning noise is coming from here...especially since I've found a few slight groove marks on the input yoke of the driveshaft.

Q: Can this bushing be replaced without removing/splitting the tranny?
I've called around and 1 shop so far says that the tranny will have to be removed and split. I mentioned that I heard of some puller type tool which he never heard of.

Any feedback is appreciated...

 

I have had mine replaced by someone who I watched use a puller to replace it, without pulling the trans. It took about 15 minutes. They used a puller with thin "jaws" with outward turned teeth. I physically witnessed the puller but I don't have a brand. This was in Oceanside, California.

 

RB, you're the man. I think he's just trying to hose me for the labour to take the tranny out and apart.
So, all they need to do is remove the driveshaft and use this puller device? That would be awesome...

Oh, one more thing. This bushing looks like a piece of pipe and has tiny little rollers on it...correct? I remember seeing it when I rebuilt the tranny 2 years ago (but didn't replace it).

 

No rollers.... some of them do look like a golf ball though, with little pockets to hold fluid.

 

hmm, I wonder if I'm thinking of the same part.
Is it pipe-shaped? (cylindrical?) I seam to remember rollers but they may have been dimples. Of course, rollers would have probably made more sense...f-in borg warner

 

Check out www.expess-tool.com in the GM tools under 200/
20004r, page 2. It is # ET-T-0160-A ext. housing bushing remover/installer for $132.75. I've used one before, and it's a real time saver!

 

Yeah, looks kind of like a ¾" long piece of 2½" tubing, with dimples on the inside.

 

Thanks dude.
GM parts just told me that I can't order just the bushing and that the tailhousing is the only thing available at over $500.00. What a joke.
Can anyone get me a part number for the bushing?

Thanks for all your help

 

GM is the wrong place to go for stuff like that. They are in fact a joke. Don't waste your time there.

Check www.gearzone.net or call Joint Clutch & Gear in Little Rock AR. It also is the same one that fits auto transmissions such as PG, T-350 and 700, so you can get one at anyplace that sells auto trans parts.

 

It is the same as a 700-r4 bushing, as RB86L69 stated. My book
says the GM part # is 6260048. Its GM list price is $2.63, according to www.gmpartsdirect.com

 

Thanks for the info man. How sure are you that the part number you gave me in the correct bushing for a World Class T5?

I checked out gmpartsdirect. Very strange how they show the bushing for the auto separately but not for the manual.

 

The parts catalog I have doesn't designate between WC and non WC. It just indicates that the part is used from '82-'96 in
the GM T-5. You can call them at 1-800-835-1007 and ask them
if it is the same part. www.areds.com Central time zone.

 

Yup, the bushing design did not change between 1st design trans and 2nd design...

I absolutely hate that "World Class" BS. I refuse to even refer to the 2nd design trans with that over-abused term. I guess I've been on too many PIT teams, have had too much Total Quality and QMS drilled into me by superiors who for all that "quality" horse poop were still only interested in leaving early on Friday afternoons and getting me to work longer for less pay, to do anything but puke every time I hear those words used. There's nothing particularly "World Class" about the 2nd design T-5, just for some reason, they decided to "adopt" the 6-Sigma terminology that was spreading like wildfire right then, it being a very trendy management buzzword.

{rant mode off}

The only things that changed between the early design and the late design are that the 1st design countergear has straight roller bearings, but the 2nd has tapered rollers; and the 1st design has the intermediate gears spinning on the mainshaft on traditional bushings when they aren't in use, where the 2nd design has them on needle rollers - for gas mileage, no impact whatsoever on strength or anything. The case is of course different to accomodate the CG bearings.

 

Don't forget the 3 piece synchros featuring the organic material! lol

Thanks for all the info dude..

 

Oh yeah... duh...

The 1st (!!!!) and 2nd gear synchros have the composition material. Now I don't know about you, but I really like those crisp shifts into 1st gear while cruising around, and that's certainly one I speed-shift alot, so I need the best synchro I can get.

What kind of "World Class" Stimpy got paid extra to dream that one up?

 

RB, i've had no luck finding the bushing puller tool.
My buddy at the gm dealer said I can pull the tailhousing off with the tranny still in the car.
The way I remember it, I can get to the bolts pretty easily if I remove the crossmember, support the trans and let it come down a bit.
If I remember correctly, I think I may have to remove the shifter though (and the shifter cube thing that the shifter ball goes into) in order to pull the tailhousing away. Also, what about the top cover..will that have to be removed in order to get the tailhousing to come off. if so, then I don't think I can do it with the trans in the car.
Do you guys think it's possibly to get the tailhousing off without dropping the whole tranny?

 

No, I don't believe that's possible, since the ext housing would have to slide straight back a foot and a half to clear the shifter rail.

Or perhaps I should say, it might be possible, but would take longer than pulling the trans.

Make your own tool..... all you need is some strip stock about ½" x 1/8", 3 pieces about 7" long; a long 3/8" bolt and a nut.

Bend the end of each piece to make a "L" with the short leg about 1/8" long; drill a 3/8" hole in the other end, and bend that in a "L" about an inch long, the opposite way (they'll look like a "Z" after that); put the long bolt through all 3 and thread the nut on behind them part way up the bolt; pull the drive shaft and seal, and put the tool into the trans, catch the short teeth on the edge of the bushing, hold the nut still with a wrench and tighten the bolt.

An installer would consist of a piece of pipe cut off at as near perfectly straight as possible, of a correct diameter and thickness so as to go around the trans mainshaft and inside the seal bore, and sit against the edge of the new bushing.

 

Steve, is it really worth all the trouble? I had mine done when I had my mustang for 60.00 CAD. at a tranny shop.

 

That's a really good deal. The tranny guys around here are pretty $hit man. That's why I rebuilt it myself a few years ago (no, I didn't change the bushing at that time).
Anyways, I called around and no one seems to have the tool to do it. They all said they'll have to split the case and get it out that way...which I wanted to avoid.
I've gone ahead and ordered the snap=on version of the bushing remover. Once I'm done with it, I'll try and return it or sell it to a tranny shop - or maybe exchange

 

Absolutely disgusting. In a place like Toronto, yet. Pop. of my town is like 10,000 and there's 3 tranny places that all had that tool. Smells kinda fishy.

 

Hi Guys,
Thanks for all your help so far.
Once I get the bushing out, can I just install the new one by tapping on it with a hammer using the old bushing to drive it in?
My real question is how far does it nead to go?
I'm thinking that it doesn't bottom out against anything 'cause the tool to remove it has teeth to get around the side of it to pull it out. It can't be resting on anything if that's the case.

How far does the bushing need to be pushed inside?

 

Yes you could do it that way. Just put it in until it's flush with the bottom of the seal bore, basically about like the one that's in there now.

 

Got the busing in last night. Used the old bushing to drive the new one in then used a piece of 1 5/8" exhaust pipe to drive it in flush with the seal bore.
Thanks for all your help.
The old one was quite worn. I slit it over the end of the driveshaft while the shaft was out and it had double the play vs the new one I got.
Gonna take it out tonight and see if my float whine is gone...