I'm going to be replacing my broken 700r4 and replacing it with a rebuilt performance 700r4 and I had a few basic questions to ask that I'm sure you'd all know. I left my Chilton manual in my apartment so I can't readily access it since I'm 100 miles away without a car.
My first question is in regard to the torque converter. What do I need to do to hook it up to the flywheel. My friend with a mustang said his snapped into place, clicked 3 times and then spun with it. He said it wasn't that big a problem to get it hooked up.
My second question is in regard to sensors, shifter and wiring. Do I need to remove my console and unbolt the shifter to drop the old tranny or can it stay in place? Are there any sensors I need to disconnect from the transmission and reconnect to the new one?
My third question is about the tools needed. Can regular tools be used to do this swap or will I need specialized equipment? I've got jackstands and a floor jack, is there anything else I'd need?
And my final question is in regard to the driveshaft, how does it bolt into the transmission?
If anyone has pictures or diagrams it'd be really helpful since I can learn quicker though them, but if not a break down of what to do would be nice. I'm getting help from my friend with the Mustang but he's not totally sure if Ford and GM have similar procedures and equipment. I'd assume they do but I don't want to base my new transmission and over $1000 in equipment on assumption. if they are the same just let me know and my friend will be enough to help me out! This is all an effort to save $400 and expand my knowledge about the other parts of my car (aside from the engine ) that are necessary to know about.

 

r&r any sensers from your trans to the new one, the shifter stays put, just unbolt/hook the shifter cable , torque converter can be bolted up by using a flywheel turning tool, or a socket on the crank bolt, pull the plugs first so you don't break the bolt. the drive shaft is splined and slips into the tail houseing

 

Your converter must look like the one in this picture before
you tighten the bolts to the engine block. If the drive lugs of the pump rotor are not in the notches of the converter's drive hub,
the pump can be ruined when the bellhousing bolts are tightened. The distance from the bellhousing face to the pads
on the converter were about 1.100"

 

thanks guys, looking forward to getting started as soon as the tranny crate comes in lol