what kind of problems am i going to run into doing this swap
i dotn want to start this project then find out i need some part that i cant afford right now then im stuck with my everydayer up on blocks

thanks guys

also would it be worth it to get the poly trans mounts?
cause my 700r4 makes a bang like all stock fbodies when the car is takin off from the light

 

Why the swap?

 

because im droping in a chevy 350 and my v6 700r4 cant hold up to 375 hp

 

It depends on the tailshaft length but you might have a problem with the driveshaft length. I think that it should mount up to your crossmember without any major problems, you will probably have to get some bracket for the shifter cable. Other than that I can't think of anything else. At least not right now.

 

Just my personal opinion, I would try to find a 700R4 just because you will have the overdrive, in case you want to put in some higher gears. It depends on your rear end ratio now, What are you running?

 

right now the car is stock so im assuming 2.73s in the rear
the reason im goin wiht this trans is because it free with the engine im buying
i mean u cant beat free
sorry i forgot to mention i have the driveshaft to match my car and i a shifter and cable to do all that

the question was more aimed towards any mounting problems

 

Just running through my brain, you will have to find a way to hook up your torque arm and speedo. I tried to find an old mag. that had a tranny comparison guide but I couldn't find it. I know Summit racing used to sell a change over kit for this sort of swap. I think it came with the torque arm mount stuff.Yea found one in Jegs, but its like $80.

 

hey where is that kit i cant find it do you have a link or something
thanks

 

i would find a 700r4. its geared lower 1-2-3 and youll get better gas milage because of overdrive. they will handle that amount of power too.

 

The part number through Jegs is 130-30299 it is a B&M part. There is also a Hurst kit the number is 530-550-0001 and its $95.

 

i got the kit from summit and it works great . i like the 350 over the 700 dont know why just feels better . im guessing it the gears and the gas milage its real that bad . i think im getting like 12 miles to the gal

 

Personal experience with all my different combo's last year experimenting with stuff. Drag racing mind you-stock 700r4 w/ 305 as I bought the car was running high 1.9 60' times. Then rebuilt the 700r4 with ALL the trans-go stuff and a Coan 2800 stall and switched to my 355 (not by choice at the time) and 60' were consistent 1.95 when convertor flashed at 2800 rpm and crossed the traps at 4400 rpm. Had a TH350 redone and installed a 3500 stall-60', 1/4mi E.T., and finish line rpm were all identical to that of the 700r4. I did'nt like the 700r4 cause of the HUGE internal gear ratio gap between 1st and 2nd, and back then was dissappointed when a lower 60'/1/4mi. E.T. was not produced-wished I still had the OD cause the motor wings about 3K on the hwy-slower than traffic. I used a Hurst swap kit and a long tail (TH375) tranny, everything bolted back together better than stock and I was able to retain the factory driveshaft with the long tail TH350. Otherwise you need a shaft out of a 82 F-body w/ a 200r4 transmission. Now that things are changed around some more-more combination experiments-got the 60' to consistent 1.82-1.80 and dropped a 1/2 sec. in the 1/4. Hopefully with the mods over the winter I'll pick up some more and I have another intake I want to try and 3 new carbs as well. Then I'll get a new rear / gears.

 

Ok i have done this recently, so here goes.

1. B&M makes a 700r-4 to th350 coversion kit for about 80$, it comes with a couple of brakets

2. you will have to re-use your old cross-member and get new tranny mounts

3. Need to get a drive shaft made.

 

what about the torque arm...any problems there

 

When you buy the tranny adapter, they have provisions to mount the torque arm, you can either reuse the factory rubber or buy new poly bushing so everything will be tight again after you swap. The biggest thing that'll save you money is get a TH375-just a standard TH350 with a long tailshaft 9" instead of 6". They are the same trans, cost the same to have redone/beefed up and this way you don't have to have a driveshaft made. Once you get your tranny adapter and a TH375, everything will bolt right back up with no trips anywhere to have anything made, unless of course you want to get a beefier driveshaft. The tranny I got was out of a 74 Caprice, tranny shops/junk yards will know exactly what your talking about when you ask them. I got the Hurst bracket from a member on this site and it was very well built and I had the tranny swap completed in less than 2 hours. I thought since everything else on this car sucked to work on, since it's all so crammed in, that the tranny swap would suck, I even put it off for a week, then once I got into it I smacked myself cause this was by far the easiest trans swap I ever did, and I even did this one alone.

 

hey ihi
i see u have the full tube headers
what did u do for ur exhaust after the headers to get it all to work