according to some places i called (yank, and a reputable local shop..) that if an engine is making 400-500 Ft. Lbs of torque then the lowest stall available will be 2800-3000 when using a 9.5" converter.

they said that converter on say, a stock 305, would only stall to about 1800... its the load of torque that adds the extra stall.

and this was the LOWEST stall they could build for me, in any 9.5" converter.

That doesn't sound right to me. What size converter would they use? You definitely don't want a 2800 stall converter for a engine making 400 HP. Have you called Midwest Converters? I think there converters are all 10" though.

check out www.ptcrace.com

These guys make good products and stand behind them. They can answer any questions you have. Great guys. Good prices.

You can try Pro-built at

http://www.pro-built.net/index.cfm?f...t&productid=58

For a 2400 stall 9.5" converter

Jerry

right, a 2400 Stall 9.5" converter, thats just it.

That converter wont stall below 2800 RPMS even though its a "2400 stall" it still will slip past that because of the torque of the motor. I beleive monty has a similar problem... a 3200 stall converter stalling to like 4000 because of his damn 1000 Ft. lbs of torque.

what im getting at is it seems no matter who i talk to, vigilante, yank, etc... they all use this equation to determine converter stall, and basing that on 550 Ft. Lbs of torque the lowest stall 9.5" they can supply me with is that "2400" but it will actually stall to 2800 because of the torque.

thats it.

If you do have 1000ft lbs, i'd hate to be the tourqe converter. Typically when you see converters in jegs and summit, the stall speed is based off a 350 making so much tourqe, lets say you buy a 3000 stall convertor for your mild small block, if you put that same converter behind a 502 its going to stall way higher because the engine is making so much tourqe. Thats why good companies such as Probuilt, Yank, Vigilantie ask about 479 questions about your setupm which is good.

The lowest 9.5 stall speed I have seen is 2400 or 2600. i'd think if you are putting out enough power to push a 2400 stall convertor to stall at 2800, then the convertor wasnt built right. But I am no means a trans/converter guy and I am speaking out of line or saying something wrong someone please correct me. I dont want to through info out there thats not true. that doesnt help anyone.

you need to learn a little more young jedi

Torque converter stall ratings are based on an engine's TORQUE. What the converter manufacturers are telling him is true, with the amount of torque his engine is making and with the size of converter he wants to run the lowest possible stall is going to be XXXXrpm. That is how they work. That is why most converter companies will do a few re-stalls for free because of this problem because you usually dont get it right the very first time.

bah, dont worry about it

At least you are trying to learn, thats a GOOD thing. I dont know everything about torque converters but i know enough to give a decent explanation

The best advice i give anyone about cars is to always keep an open mind and learn as much as you can, the trick is to WATCH where you get your information

Usually the best sources are the racers themselves at the tracks and the machine shops. Magazines aren't too good imo

I have a 2400 9.5 inch ACT stall. It flashes around 2400 probably a little higher and that's with the stock 350 tpi motor.

right put a freaking roots blower on top of that thing pushing 12 PSI see if it still stalls to 2400

:hail: :hail: :hail:

I have a question, if a 2400 stall is needed and a 245MM pump will not stall that low at your torque level than why not use a 258MM or 298MM converter.

Jerry

Yeah, I bet 12 psi from roots would cause it to stall a little higher... probably make a lot of noise too when the stock motor goes :-)

Pro-built informed me that 10 psi from a ATI centifugal would cause it to stall at around 3k.

I don't understand why you are so concerned with getting such a low stall. It's only going to stall that high when you are in the pedal. At light throttle and cruise it isn't going to act like a 3k converter, it's going to be pretty damn tight. Even it's shft recovery RPM will be relatively lower than a 3k stall behind a milder engine

For example, the 3k stall behind my 305 behaves a lot like the way 32-3500 converters act behind nice 350 based engines in terms of it's part throttle. Thats because my converter is a loose converter because i don't have the engine to slip it any higher. Behind a roots blown 350 i'd guestimate 4k or more stall

The reason why I went with such a low stall is because I have the peanut cam and stock heads. I also figured the ACTs comes with a free change so I can send it back in for my new 383 when ever that goes together.

<b> it's going to be pretty damn tight</b>

Thats exactly what I want. I know the 9.5's are by far the most efficient converter out there, and i want the most efficient converter on the street that i can get. its all about fuel economy, you know?

1) the weight of the car will effect stall speed.

2) why do you want to run that high if stall on a street car? If its a daily driver you will be running under stall speed way too often and this will produce extra trans killing heat. You hopefully have some low gears in that rearend (3.73 or better) to keep the R's up al the time even when cruising.

<b>why do you want to run that high if stall on a street car?</b>

whoa buddy, i just got done saying thats the lowest damn stall they can get me!!

<b>to keep the R's up al the time even when cruising.</b>

the 9.5" is a lockup converter! it wont be slipping while i cruise.

Whoa buddy back... just giving some friendly advise- obviously the 9.5" converter in not for you...thats my point. Jerry above seems to think the same perspective. Food for thought- your converter is not always in lockup- hence stop and go freeway traffic, etc... Jump my *** all you want but either heed the warning or live and learn.

<b>Jump my *** all you want but either heed the warning or live and learn.
</b>

sorry if it sounded like that

<b>obviously the 9.5" converter in not for you</b>

after all I've read I think it IS for me. its the tightest most efficient converter you can get for the street. from what I've read above it wont be stalling to 2800 until 500 Ft Lbs of torque hits it... Hence the rest of the time it will act as a stock converter; but way more efficient. Yes i think it will be perfect, and ill let you all know when i take a drive in the shop car over at the local street and strip, they have a 700R4 with a 2400 stall 9.5" converter on it, guy said he would let me take a ride...

9.5 inch aren't too bad. Like I said I got a 2400 ACT on my stock 350 tpi with 700-r4 and it's a little softer than the OEM stall of course but I'm still very comfortable with it for daily driving. I can put 200 miles on the car in a week's time.

About the only times it will be a pita is if you want to drive over a bump from a complete stop (like 3 or 4 inches high). I was trying to back into a shop the other day with a 3 inch ledge between driveway and shop floor. I only had to goose it a little to get enough speed to keep the weight moving.

I also notice it at times in traffic at low speeds like 25 mph or so I gotta give it a little more gas to get to pick up speed. I didn't even notice all that much of a decrease in gas mileage either. I'm also running 3.27 gears too. Bottom line is I really like the stall and I wouldn't go back to a OEM stall if I had the choice.

well i still havnt gotten around to getting a converter yet. my plans changed for the motor so now im re-considering.


People with 2800 Stall, 9,5" converters, when you move from stoplights in a daily-driven manner how much worse than the stock converter is it for your fuel economy?

and I also heard when you switch to better gears, 3.73, the stall jumps higher because of the torque multiplication factor (simulating a lighter car) is this true?

so if i put a 2800 stall ACT behind my stealthrammed 355, with 3.73 gears, would it really want to stall up and eat fuel under daily driven circumstances? right now my city fuel economy is like 18 MPG, highway is close to 28 MPG, when i get my gears i expect it to drop a little, but i want to keep it as close to 17~MPG City as i can.