I'm getting ready to swap out the L03/T5 in my '92 Camaro RS for a 350 H.O./T56, so I've been doing tons of research of old posts on this site and others. However, I still have a few questions regarding the 93-97 OEM T56 tranny swap:

1) Do you or don't you need to replace/shorten the torque arm? The article at http://sethirdgen.org/t56.htm (which everyone seems to think is accurate) states that the 93-97 T56 is 1.9" longer and you HAVE to either shorten it or get an aftermarket piece such as the Spohn adjustable torque arm. At the same time, the OTHER trusted article at http://www.skulte.com/T56.html states that the T56 is the same length as the T5 and the torque arm & driveshaft can be reused. It implies that the aftermarket T56 is the one that is 1.9" longer...which article is correct?

2) What is the best bang-for-the-buck clutch/pressure plate combo for the 93-97 T56? The Centerforce clutch set at www.summitracing.com is about $550, which sounds high. I have seen a couple of people recommend the McLeod clutch combined with the LT4 pressure plate. I found the clutch disc at Thunder Racing for $133+shipping (P/N 37-261871), but I have no idea about the part number or pricing for the LT4 pressure plate. Does anyone have this info or have any other clutch kit recommendations?

3) I have a 1992 Camaro, which is equipped with the electronic speedo. Everyone recommends the Dakota Digital SGI-5 converter, but everyone also seems to be majorly confused as to how to install it properly. Has anyone drawn up a detailed schematic that shows how to wire this thing? I think that the article at http://www.skulte.com/T56.html mentions something about an Excel spreadsheet for calculating the "VSS divisor ratio"...does this make everything clear?

4) There seems to be differing opinions about who makes the best throwout bearing...should I go with GM, or Centerforce, or what?

Thanks in advance for the help...this message board rocks

(edit - corrected one of the links)

 

I too have been doing my research and am preparing to do a similar swap. From what I understand you can reuse the existing driveshaft/torque arm IF you use the T-56 bellhousing and clutch setup. the extention comes from using the T-5 bellhousing.

 

If you're swapping in a complete trans & bellhousing from '93-97 F-body, you can reuse your TH700 or T5 driveshaft and torque arm.

I'm having great results with the GM LT4 pressure plate and throwout bearing, and McLeod $130 disk from Thunder Racing.


I wouldn't say "everyone" is confused, just the ones who can't read. Just set the Dakota up for 4,000 pulse/mile output, wire your trans VSS output to the Dakota input, ground the other VSS output from the trans, and feed the Dakota output to your ECM's VSS input (where the old trans VSS output went).


See above, the LT4 pressure plate comes w/ a throwout bearing and both have been holding up to my thrashing.

 

kevinc: do you have a part number for the LT4 pressure plate?

 

It was 10222083 when I bought it, but if you tell Dal at Vandervere Olds you want an LT4 pressure plate + throwout bearing for a 1996 Trans Am he'll make sure you get the right one...for at or under wholesale price.

His email address is lockitup@bright.net

Get a new pilot bearing/bushing locally, I like the Moroso roller pilot myself but some like the bronze bushing...your call.

Thunder Racing has the best deal I found on the McLeod disc.

 

I did the T56 swap last winter on my 91 z28 and I cant complain one bit about it. I used al the LT1 tranny stuff and did not have to shorten or lenfthen my driveshaft or torque arm. EVERYTHING bolted right up. I am running the LT4 pressure plate and an SLP disc and have no problems. I plan on changing it out soon though since it was used when I put it in. Ive seen the RAM clutches go for about $300. Not sure on how good they are though. I am running the SGI 5 box and it works 90% the right way. The speedo needle jumps arounf at idle sometimes but it reads right while driving.as for the T/O bearing, Im using what came with the tranny so I guess its the GM piece. I also bought a cheap autozone pilot bearing.

 

if your slick you can burn it into the prom to get it to work instead of using the box.... Now.. i don't know how you do it, the addresses in the prom, but I saw a pal of mine do it recently.
when he gets it 100% ironed out he'll probalby post up on how to do it.

 

I did it by playing around with the pulse and divsor, but too bad i need the SGI-5 for my DFI setup anyway.