When I drive and look at the rear wheel out the window, it goes a little in and out compared to the fenderlip. Seems that something is kind of bendt, would it be the axle shaft, or the whole rear axle? Or is there perhaps anything alse that usually bends?

What would be the wisest choice, try to repair it, maybe get a new shaft and perhaps something else, or just swap out the whole rear axle?

Where I'm at, there arent plenty of these cars, so I suspect it would be difficult to get a hold of a good complete rear. I can get it shipped from the us, but the weight makes that really expensive. A little less for just a shaft I think.

But I really dont even know how I'm supposed to see what's wrong. One only see this when you roll the tires.

Any tips?

 

You've only bent the axle shaft. Just replace it and you'll be fine. I did the same thing on my 86 IROC. It's not to major of a job, just make sure you have everthing ready when you start and you'll be finished in no time. If you have the drum brake rear then you'll have to take everything off just like you were replacing the rear brake shoes, then take the 10 bolt cover off the the center section. You will have to take the spider gears out to get to the c-clip so you can slid the shaft out and replace it. I not real sure I covered everthing correctly because I'm going from memory and thats not my best atribute. Don't forget to get the rear gear lube and new gasket before you start.

Steve

 

I have a bent axel in my car too. I called around to a few places such as GM dealers and custom machine shops and found that a new axel for my car would be expensive. About $200 for one side. I would have called a junkyard but I dont trust the places around me. Then I ran into a nice deal. Rebuilt 1991 Z28 rearend, with posi and brand new 3.73 motive gears for $200, on a message board. I'm gonna be doing a whole rearend swap in a week or 2.

 

Steve, what kind of rear end were you working on that required you to take out the spider gears to get to the c-clip? I hope it wasnt the stock 10-bolt....cause you dont have to do that. Just take the cross pin out of the carrier and push the axles in and the c-clips will just fall out.

Tilstad, this is a very easy fix. 25-30 minutes tops to swap an axle.

 

Doesn't sound so bad either, but I havent recived my manual yet, so it's kind of new ground for me. Smashed the car after owning it just a tad over a week, after not had one incident in eleven years. So I just wasn't prepared for this, not even do I have a owners booklet.

So here's some more questions; THe cross pin and carrier, is that something that's in the bellhousing, or out by the wheel?

Will there be fluid pouring out of the cover when I take it off? And how much and what kind of fluid should I add afterwards. I guess there may be some kind of measuring stick to see the oil level?

I found a shop who told me they meight be able to streighten the shaft for app. 100$ or so. I have tried to locate a used one, but to no luck yet. I have some phonenumbers yet to try tomorrow, so it could be that I find one. If not. I have to settle for a new one, but that will take some time to get.

By the way, do Summit sell these axles?

 

The carrier and cross pin are in the center section of the rear end, far from the bell housing, right in the middle between the 2 rear wheels.

Yes the fluid will come out when you take the cover off. It holds about 2 liters. It is regular gear oil, about 80 or 90 weight. It's the same gear lube that would be used in almost any gearbox other than an automatic transmission. There is no dip stick; you take the plug out of the side of the differential housing, and fill it until it starts running out of the plug.

I seriously doubt that anyone can straighten the axle, but I suppose it's worth a try.

 

Well, they said that it could be done if it werent too bendt. They are a firm who have cardan axles as specialty, and make custom shafts etc. I just thought they probably got alot of work or rears too.

If I can locate a used one. I would take it, but it's the time factor who is hunting me a bit. I have used over a month to locate some wheels after it broke, just to find out this thing about the axle.

But thanks for the feedback, it's not so intimidating anymore now. I think I can manage this. It's a different story about getting the axle though..

 

We'll I did say I was going from memory. It's been five years sense I did it so I guess I forgot what I saw when I was in there. Thanks for setting me straight.

Steve

 

I found a junkyard in Sweden that had one. I got them to send it to a postoffice closest to the border, and I'll pick it up there. Guess this would be better than trying to straighten it. Only problem is I might get a wrong one, but I specified 10 bolt, drumbrakes, and it came from a -87 formula, my exact car. So now I only have to wait...

 

It took some time to get hold of the axle and wheel I needed, but I got them yesterday. The axle swap was fairly easy, but it still took some time since it was my first time ever to even touch a rear axle.

In a "post" howto everything was explained nicely, exept the part about the pin and bolt. That was a bit confusing since it's not the bolt which should be hammered out, but the pin, AFTER the little bolt has been unscrewed. (Good thing I saw the little bolt just as I was to begin hammering the pin out.) Also it's a good idea to replace this bolts as it is a service part which should be replaced every 24 000 km, I was told.

I bought seals, bearing, gasket, and oil. I got everything wrong exept the bearing. The oil should have a limited slip additive, and the seal and gasket oughto fit, which my didn't, first time around anyway. I coudlnt replace the bearing since I couldnt find any suitable tool. The thing one would need is a "glide-hammer". Maybe you call it something else...i dunno.

Other than that, some cleaning, wirebrushing of rusted parts, primering, and painting would also be needed if the car is normally worn and used. Especially the diff cover where almost completely "rust-finished", and it needed some work to get nice.

Where I got the gaskets they could sell me a chrome diff cover for about $200. A little expensive in my book though. I used paint at $20, and had lots left to paint the wheel I got with new "charcoal finish" between the spokes, which had completely vanished.

About the wheels;
At the end I was really pissed about the fact that every person I got in contact with ( I had 9-10 contacts) who had some of these wheels, just stopped writing mails to get adress and such,
and finish off the deal. I was willing to pay fairly much for it too, but what good did that do when I couldn't get anyone to sell me one?
It took two and a half months to get it, and I was willing to pay up to $500 included shipping. In the end I paid $50 for two wheel's on ebay, got the seller to withdraw the auction, got the seller to send me one of them the day after, and throw away the other, and I payed $ 200 in shipping.

Still, compared to the price the dealer here in Norway wanted it was a bargain. They wanted $1000 for just one! And 8 weeks delivery time...

Next time around canging an axle would be a snap!
Thanks, everyone.

Kjetil