Ok I need some help regarding the mounting of the clutch fork on the release bearing.

THe fork sits in the groove of the bearing and according to posts on this forum, the little "ears" go inside the groove. That shouldn't be a problem at all because when I took the old bearing off, those ears stayed pressed right up against the fork (I assume that for people who wind up putting them on the outside that these ears spring out when the bearing is removed??). Thus I can slide the bearing forward and backwrad (on its operational axis) just a little bit. In other words, the fork is not wide enough in comparison to the groove. Is this right, should there be play like that????? SHould those little ears be bent out just a bit so that they touch the other side of the groove in the bearing to make a tight fit???

Could the fork play in the groove reduce the ability to get the clutch away from the engine??? The reason I ask is that I was getting groaning usually associated with clutch pedal movement and some gear clashing.

Any help or advice you guys can provide would be tremendously appreciated.

thanks,
eddie.

 

make sure you have the spring clips in place in the groove

 

yeah, I know that. Like I said, they are right up against the fork, therefore, the fork can move side to side a bit in the bearing groove. Should those "ears" be springing up against the other side of the groove (still in the groove though) so that the fork fits snug in the groove with no side to side play???

 

No. fingers on the clutch will press it back. the fork is to be against the the groove closest to the clutch assembly andthe spring towards the back wall of the groove on the tranny side and there should be some play but if your getting groaning sounds when you press the clutch in it is do of lack of grease in the groove and the area it slides on but not too much it will get into the clutch. and also tighten the bearing retainer on the input shaft it always loosen up. and clashing the gears occur when there isn't enough pressure from the fork so bleed the slave cylinder. and check if you excessive clutch slippage.

 

thanks for the infor. A couple more questions though:

- the fork stays stationary in that groove, does it not?? In other words that part of the bearing does not rotate and it doesn't slide in that groove, right??

- what is the bearing retainer? Is that that cover over the input shaft that sticks out about 4 inches from the tranny and the release bearing rides on it?? What do you mean by "it loosens up" and how do you go about tightening it?

thanks.

 

the bearing rotates a little(floats)in the groove when clutch is not press in but when you press the clutch in the bearing does most of the rotating they designed it so the bearing will last twice as long by reducing the bearing rpm's. the bearing gradually rotates with the clutch and then it takes up the full rotation on complete contact.

yes the bearing retainer is the snout that covers the input shaft. when you get vibrations or groaning sounds in the clutch it may loosen the 4 retaining bolts. I had or have that problem. but i didn't catch the retaining bolts in time it loosen up and wear my input shaft bearing out. how i notice ths problem is when my tranny started making a quite gear noise then it started to sound like a pete jackson gear drive set. so i tore it out and the bearing retainer is completely loose. I hope this is helpful. and remember ALWAYS DOUBLE CHECK EVERY THING. you don't want to take it apart again.

 

ok, i will definitely check that! Thanks for the tip.

that is interesting what you say about the gear noise because I have noticed that recently that when in first or second when slowing down to a light you hear (i am pretty sure) gear noise. I haven't been driving it all that frequently since I got it (bodywork etc) so I was curious as to whether that is normal? Do you always here the gears a bit on a RWD manual??

So are you saying that that noise could be the input shaft bearing??

thanks,
eddie

 

Yes the input shaft is one source. what causes it improperly installing the tranny (shifting the thing tell it fits ) or loose bolt on bell housing to engine and to tranny. the tranny shouldn't have noteable noise, but Its common to have reverse to make noise in the tranny and the rear end. the gears are mesh(angle) to be quite in all forward gears but in reverse they make noise. here's a secret tip that the tranny guys don't want you to know. you can severly screw up a tranny or at least accellerate the wear by mashing you gas pedel in reverse. Another thing check for play on the input shaft in all directions. there shouldn't be no more than one millimeter of play.

 

opps i forgot when you get gear noise when slowing down in gear is when the rear wheels is now putting reverse pressure on the gears (accellerating puts (positive) pressure on gears toward the wheel when slowing in gears the rear wheels put (negative) pressure on the tranny gears. Do you understand so far. But if you hear noise then something is wrong or gradually wearing out especially when slowing in gear while it is engaged ( engine breaking what truckers call it).

 

Yes, I understand about reversing the pressure when slowing down, that makes sense. But are you saying that this reverse pressure will cause a little bit of gear noise?? Or are you saying that you shouldn't even hear nooise when slowing down?

I don't believe that I hear it when accelerating.... it is when I take my foot off the gas and most audibly in 1st or 2nd.

 

Yes it is audibable when slowing in gear the reason is wear patterns on teeth and but mostly the teeth. for example dirt bike chain, chain saws, and timing chain wear on one side on the sproket same way on gears one side wears more than the other but when it is too excessive will produce noise. how it wears is the rotational resistance (load) is at. its hard to displace it under heavy accelleration. Automatic tranny's help cushion all than accelleration and decelleration with the torque converter but it wears out too but mostly in the clutch pack. I have talked to some tranny rebuilders about this also. about wear patterns, driving habits and tranny fluid. for insistance it is unwise to change fluid in a manual tranny to a different type (T-5 used automatic fluid) and is designed for the clearences of bearings and and gears but when you change out the fluid to gear oil its thicker and has problems getting into tight areas and if you use gear oil use only in warm climates and warm your tranny before using. When car is idleing the input shaft spins and lubes the shifting mechinism. you will notice it is hard to shift when cold. I drive truck for a living and it applys there too i can't shift when cold either. So you may have to change your driving habits for a longer living tranny. P.S. And its not recomended to tow a vechile without disconnecting the drive line if you don't more than half the gears don't get lubed the input shaft does the luberication.

 

usually 2nd and 3rd will have noise. people like to mash there motor in those gears 1 st gear is pretty tough.

 

thanks a lot for the info. much appreciated.

I rented the clutch alignment tool today (the one that came with the clutch kit didn't fit!) but it just started raining and I just don't have the motivation to get down there right now and finish up after a long day at work. Hopefully tomorrow I will have new found energy!

thanks again for the help.

 

i wish it could rain now. Its a hundred degree weather in spokane

 

I am no longer complaining!