The 9-bolt is stronger right? Will both hold up to a cammed and bolt-on L98? Only track action-->Autocross and Road Racing. Trying to decide to go 9-bolt or straight to L98. Thanks

-Rippin

 

The 9-Bolt is stronger and should hold up, better than the 10-Bolt anyway.

 

the 9 bolts power capabilities are said to be good to the 11 second area at the track, its also said to be stronger then a dana 44. its capabilities are far superior then the 10 bolt rears.

everyone says well the 9 bolt is more expensive blah blah blah. richmond gear company even says 350hp is really excedding the capability of the 10 bolt. with that said the initial cost of putting together the 10 bolt will be cheaper but down the raod everytime it breaks on ya and you gotta fix it, add that price to the initial build up cost. it wont take long to excede the price of the 9 bolt. not to mention how much of a pain the labor is.

people will find a 10 bolt to be more expensive in the long run then a 9 bolt. i do not have an 11 second car, but my 9 bolt has held up a hell of a lot better then my stock 10 bolt ever did.

 

Miles has got a 427 feeding in to a 9 bolt.

 

The 'official' torque rating of the nine bolt isnt much more than that of the ten bolt, but real world experiences show it to be much stronger. Its also got bolt in axles instead of c clips. Mine has held up great to much abuse.

 

It's too bad that GM didn't offer the 9 bolt rear in ALL of the 82-92
F-bodies!

 

I have gone through 3 10 bolts... Still on the same 9-bolt since last year around this time...

I put the posi through a lot of abuse...

first 10 bolt... the carrier exploded... grenade inside the pumpkin\
second 10 bolt cleaned the teeth off the gears
third 10 bolt.. apparently the ring gear was torqued wrong and shattered... a month after instal

my first 9-bolt... damn strong and hooks up great... had since sept of last year...

edit: hey formula... those wheels are NICE!!

they really look good on your bird...

 

ne1 know how to take the axels out of the 9 bolt cause i gotta do that

 

With that kind of statement you can sure tell you have never seen a Dana 44.

Jerry

 

To remove the axles, take of the wheels and tires, then remove the 4 bolts on the axle retention flange and the axle will slide out. No need to remove the rear cover.


http://www.difftechnics.com/hot_rod_article_sm.jpg


Miles

 

I read in either GMHTP or in super chevy that this is true.

 

Thanks man, I get a lot of compliments on them.

 

I have a 9-bolt in my Camaro. I have Dana 44's front and rear in my Jeep (and the only real difference between it and the Camaro version is mounting brackets.) I've been inside both of them, and in the humble opinion of a professional mechanic, the 9-bolt is perfectly capable of being stronger than a Dana 44.

 

See http://www.9bolt.com/

 

Hey Miles,

I just checked your web site. When is that 9 bolt cover expected to be out? Pricing?

 

i was about to ask the same thing cause i really need a aluminum cover my stock one is bent up and leaking oil

 

Very simple question for you name a part in a 9 bolt and why it's capable of being stronger than the same part in a third gen Dana 44.


Jerry

 

even though ur out to crush toes ill respond to this. like my reply said, its been "said " that it is stronger then a dana 44. ive seen this in magazines and original test articles on thirdgens. never did i state that it is or isnt. i said its been "said " to be stronger.

 

If the 9bolt doesn't use Cclips, will a 9 bolt still swap directly into a 10bolt car?

 

yes the c clips has nothin to do how the rear bolt in the car just how the axels r held in

 

The original cover pattern was machined with the wrong shrink allowance The machine shop is making a new pattern and the inside is done and they were ready to start on the outside when I left last week (I was in NY and Norwalk OH racing at the Chrysler Classic). It's not a 3rd gen, but it's definately fast and fun (and I don't even drive it)) More info on the car is at www.insanityracing.com I will be stopping by the shop tomorrow to check the status. Once the pattern's done, it'll be ~ 5weeks for prototypes then a couple of weeks for production quantities. Cost should be similar to a quality 10 bolt cover (ie ~$150). I need to have parts for the PRI show at Indy in December.

Miles

 

Alrighty, then. If it will speed things along, put me down for one of those covers.

 

I def want one also is the way u get the axels out of the 9 bolt is just to unbolt the backing plates and pull them out?

 

Spider gears. As in the Dana 44 has 2 axle and 2 side gears where the 9-bolt has 2 axle and 4 side gears.

 

That is true if your Dana has a Trac-loc and not a Power-loc like my GMPP unit. I have 4 larger spiders and lots more friction area with larger diameter cross shafts in a larger diameter diff than any 9 bolt.

You picked a one point lets try some more.

Name the axle with the

#1 Bigger axle tubes
#2 thicker axle tubes
#3 more welds on the case to tubes
#4 more splines on the axles
#5 Bigger diameter axles
#6 Bigger ring gear
#7 Bigger carrier bearings
#8 Bigger pinion
#9 Larger diameter diff.
#10 Bigger yoke


I will give you one clue all the answers have Dana in them.

 

I was under the impression that the 9bolt didnt have any clutches and therefore couldnt have any more clutch area than a Dana...

 

The friction area on a 9 bolt ( or clutch old fart term) is one diameter of the diff thats the size of the cone ( cone type clutch is one more old fart term) in the housing.

The friction area on a Dana is a multi plate system (clutch) with many times more surface area.

Jerry

 

Nope, it's not.

Due to the cone geometry (ie wedging), a cone clutch only requires ~20% of the clamping/holding force of an equivelent disk style clutch. Since the cone style clutch is more efficient, the physical friction area is smaller and hence the entire carrier is smaller.

In a disk clutch torque calculation, you multiply by the number of disks. In a cone clutch torque calculation, which is exactly the same equation except you divide by the sine of the cone angle. Typical clutch cone angles are ~12° hence the 20%.

Miles

 

i pmed u 88 427 i need to ask a question i cant seem to find newhere

 

Sounds like Jerry should be on a Jeep message board

And as a matter of fact, unless its a CJ, all jeeps have a Dana 35 rear and Dana 30 front.....

 

If its worth anything I think the 10 bolt in my 91 Z28 just went tonight. I'll find out more tomorrow when its light outside. Looks like I'll be swapping the 9 bolt currently in my 89 RS into my 91 Z28. Should be back on the road by Friday. Just debating what I should do to the 9 bolt before I swap it in.

 

Now to get really OT, TJ's (97+ Jeeps) since 98 had the option of a Dana 44 rear and the Rubicons have 44's front and rear

 

True that we are a little OT