I was wondering if anybody was running there stock driveshaft with a 9" and if si what is the u-joint that your using....


Thanks in advance!

 

I am... Moser 9" with stock driveshaft, and even U-joints. However, the switch form 2.73 open to 3.70 posi has been murder for my high speeds with the driveshaft, it vibrates so damn much I can't even listen to a CD without it skipping like crazy. Having a custom driveshaft made for me in a couple weeks.

 

Your able to use the stock u-joint? Damn my 9" is a moser also but it seems like it takes a smaller diameter cap......

Anybody else?

 

either of you guys have pics of the TQ arm mount?


im considering getting a 9" rear, and welding the brackets to it rather then buying one for thoes ungodly prices....


i just wanna see how they solved the TQ arm prob.

 

I'll try to get some up for ya but I don't know how I'll get all the angles with it in now though.

 

I know somebody on here has to know!
Please!

 

I'm also looking at a Ford 9" the last guy who had it used it in a 78 Camaro. As to the driveshaft situation.. I'm also wondering about this. I fugured I'd just get an old V6 rear and use all the brackets/mounting hardware from it. The driveshaft is the only problem I guess.. do they make U-Joints with different sizes.. so that you could mate a Ford rear with a GM driveshaft?

I know this has been done.. it's just that we need to find who has done it and find out what they used/did to solve this problem.

 

just remember guys, while the ford 9" maybe the strongest rear end built, it is also the biggest horsepower robber. carcraft had an interresting article on drivetrain horsepower loss. so if your not packing over 500hp why spend the money on it? i think its almost like 19%.

 

Oh, I know this but I got tired of breaking the 7.5 that's why I went this route plus it was a BARGAIN!!! Also my car will hopefully be running single digits come next year so I needed a good rear plus the 7.5 has served me well. It went into the tens a couple of times

 

It is not a horsepower grabber and the strongest rear end, the two are directly related.

I think the difference between a 12-bolt and a 9" is 2%, which isn't THAT bad.

 

U-joint question.... That depends.... On which YOKE you have...The factory ford yokes there was a smaller version???cant remember the NUMBER for the joint and then a LArger version which is a 1330EXT clamp bearing...Its kind of a basturdized size for these fords due to the WIDTH of the thing but its a 1330 bearing size...

ADDITIONALLY if you have a BIG aftermarket yoke***ie MOSER or STRANGE*** those are 1350 series.....IN THAT CASE no oe makes the conversion joint...Or at least they did not make it when I did my swap....They might now...

First step is figure out which PART number yoke you have OR....Go to a website SUCH as ROCKFORD DRIVELINE and Take the measurements SHOWN on the page.....Then you can get the correct conversion joint...

They helped me out originaly with the conversions before I steppedup to 1550...

ALSO **** if its an ALUM driveshaft MAKE SURE you buy an ALUM capatible U-Joint...

If you press a Galvanized steel u-joint into an aluminum driveshaft it will cause a chemical reaction which will make the U-joint eat through the Driveshaft....LOTS of people make that mistake when swapping u-joints out...

 

Thank you for the reply and I'll check that site out asap....Thanks again!

 

www.sponh.net has a u-joint conversion kit. it costs 40$ but it will convert from a 1310 to a 1350 or whatever it is. i just didi the sway myslef

 

i've got a moser with my own centersection and it used the 1310 series u joint . that was stock for my car. depending on the yoke they had 1330,1310 or 1350.

 

Here is pic of the tq arm mount but it is not the best angle so I'll get a better one for ya...

 

May sound dumb, but how do I know which yoke my thirdmember has? Is it stamped on the yoke somewhere?

Mike

 

The 9" lowers the pinion to improve tooth contact but in doing so, loses 2-3% power to drive the gears. Depending on how much power you're producing, You're probably losing less than 10 hp using a 9" compared to a 12 bolt. I doubt you're going to feel a 10 HP power loss.

A fully equipped 12 bolt using stock 30 spline axles and with no brakes is around 145 pounds. A similar 9" but with slightly larger 33 spline axles is around 177 pounds and you can shave off about 30 pounds of weight by using an aluminum center section. Using a smaller 31 spline axle can bring the weight down even more.

U-joint size can only be know from the size of the cups that it uses and the length of the u-joint. The 1310 series u-joint measures approximately 3 1/4 inches wide. The 1330 and 1350 both measure approximately 3 5/8 wide. The 1310 and 1330 series can have cap diameters of 1 1/16 and/or 1 1/8 inch or a combination of both sizes. The 1350 series has a cap diameter of 1 3/16 inch and the body and journals are bigger than the 1310 or 1330. You won't find a 1350 production yoke. They're all aftermarket.

I have no idea what the driveshaft yoke size is on a third gen driveshaft. My custom driveshaft uses 1350 u-joints. I think it's called 3R and is similar to a 1330 but is not a direct replacement to the 1330.

 

i have a currie 9" with what i believe is a 1310 pinion yoke.. i have a spohn extreme duty driveshaft that bolted up to the stock rear end and the 9".. u-joint size will not really make a difference unless you are pushing 750hp+ with slicks.. then you might break the 1310..

 

my bad old thread.

 

lol, yea.... i have had a 9" in my car over a year now... didnt have one when this thread started...

 

Ok, I think the Ujoint on my Thirdmember is a 1350 series u-joint. It has a 1 3/16 diameter on the interface where the bearing cup would sit. Did I goof up, this thing definatly does not look aftermarket. I could have sworn the thing measured 3 5/8" from the lock to the lock. Maybe I goofed?

Does anyone know the series u joint for the driveshaft side on our cars?

Thanks,
Mike