The truth about manual trannys?
Supreme Member

Joined: Jun 2001
Posts: 9,550
Likes: 5
From: Charleston, SC
Car: 91 Camaro Vert
Engine: 02 LS1, HX40
Transmission: 2002 LS1 M6
Originally posted by Kingtal0n
I just want to throw info out there, for people browsing this post and getting some misinformation.
Automatics always require more HP to drive, and subsequently eat more fuel economy than Manual transmission, EVEN when the CONVERTER is locked up: TRUE
Why? Even if you have a 1:1 extension, and EVEN though it acts JUST like a pressure plate / clutch / flywheel, your STILL turning 2 sets of planetarie gearsets and a front pump in the automatic (700R4 to be exact) which, unfortunatelly, does require a bit more power to turn in the long run. how much more? probably less than 1MPG difference on the highway if you are cruising, but the difference is there, FACT.
An Automatic with a HIGH EFFICIENCY CONVERTER (I.E. 9.5" from ViG/Yank/Edge) will ALWAYS do better UNLOCKED during a 1/4 Mile run. Why why why? Well....
The advantage of "torque multiplication" is 2 Fold. Everyone here seems to think an automatic loses "energy" and "horsepower" through this mysterious device called a Torque converter, resulting in lower MPH's, or less horsepower to the wheels. Well, its TRUE that Fluid coupling has THAT distinct DIS-advantage, but guess what? While you wind up with less power transfer to the wheels at that RPM than, say, a Manual transmission would, EVERYONE overlooks the fact that Automatics do it at a HIGHER rpm than the Manual would, therefore the POWERPLANT (read: ENGINE) is making more HORSEPOWER at that RPM therfore, while the automatic is LOSING more HP to FLUID coupling, the wheels are SEEING more HP due to SLIPPAGE in the drivetrain, TOP that off with TORQUE multiplication which allows more leverage on the ground than said manual transmission would have, and you wind up with a faster car all together, even though its losing a good 5-8% more power than the manual would have.
POWERBAND plays a roll in all things. If your POWERBAND is narrow, say, 5000-7000RPMS, then using a deep gear and manual transmission will get you where you want to be right? Same instance, but automatic... Suddenly you have the option of LAUNCHING your car RIGHT into your powerband, and HOLDING it there, all the way down the track.
Now if you have a crappy torque converter, dont come crying to me about why is my car slow. the torque converter is the most important part of the automatic transmission, when concerning both drivability, MPH, ET, and fuel economy. by crappy converter I mean anything other than a 9.5" converter, and lockup if you own a 700R4.
a clutch dump on a manual transmission at, say, 5000RPM is much more drivetrain loading than an automatic "on the converter's stall" launch at the same RPM. this is where things like suspension setup come to my mind, if your LCA brackets are set to their hardest setting, your drivetrain will probably un-load before you can get 60' and you will start spinning on the manual tranny. that said, you cant directly compare cars just by going from manual to automatic, and saying oh my car got slower. If your suspension is setup for a manual transmission's launch, and you install an automatic with a high stall converter, OF COURSE your car will get slower. DUH! its not rocket science people.
Typically, I would see lots of powerglide (2-speed automatic) cars with 5000RPM 10" converters running 8-9 seconds in the 1/4 mile around here. Every old Camaro out here has a glide and a converter, its just cookie cutter stuff.
Manual's have their place. gear control is not a reason to own a manual, seriouselly just pull back on the lever and your automatic downshifts. trust me, it works, I've tried it. fuel economy is not a good reason either, generally your typical 700R4 with a 2400-2800 stall 9.5" converter (lockup) will get nearly IDENTICAL MPG numbers (I have proven this myself, thank you) both city (non-locked up) and highway (locked up) as said Manual transmission. the efficiency is here, ladies and gentlemen, you dont have to put that over-weight lead bowling ball of a converter on your transmission. I think a LOT of the misinformation is coming from people who have never OWNED a properly built 700R4 with a properly built 9.5" lockup converter properly matched to their drivetrain. suddenly your automatic is not a "slush box" anymore.
I can say some good things about manuals, for instance, they are more fun to drive. I PREFER manual transmissions, in fact. If i could find a cheap enough T-56 to handle my 600~ish horsepower BELEIVE me it would be installed right now. But I cant/couldnt. I built my 700R4 with converter for under $1400 myself, and forgot about it. and fords suck.
Disclaimer: the views expressed here-in are my OPINIONS and should be TREATED as such. Except the part about Fords suck.
I just want to throw info out there, for people browsing this post and getting some misinformation.
Automatics always require more HP to drive, and subsequently eat more fuel economy than Manual transmission, EVEN when the CONVERTER is locked up: TRUE
Why? Even if you have a 1:1 extension, and EVEN though it acts JUST like a pressure plate / clutch / flywheel, your STILL turning 2 sets of planetarie gearsets and a front pump in the automatic (700R4 to be exact) which, unfortunatelly, does require a bit more power to turn in the long run. how much more? probably less than 1MPG difference on the highway if you are cruising, but the difference is there, FACT.
An Automatic with a HIGH EFFICIENCY CONVERTER (I.E. 9.5" from ViG/Yank/Edge) will ALWAYS do better UNLOCKED during a 1/4 Mile run. Why why why? Well....
The advantage of "torque multiplication" is 2 Fold. Everyone here seems to think an automatic loses "energy" and "horsepower" through this mysterious device called a Torque converter, resulting in lower MPH's, or less horsepower to the wheels. Well, its TRUE that Fluid coupling has THAT distinct DIS-advantage, but guess what? While you wind up with less power transfer to the wheels at that RPM than, say, a Manual transmission would, EVERYONE overlooks the fact that Automatics do it at a HIGHER rpm than the Manual would, therefore the POWERPLANT (read: ENGINE) is making more HORSEPOWER at that RPM therfore, while the automatic is LOSING more HP to FLUID coupling, the wheels are SEEING more HP due to SLIPPAGE in the drivetrain, TOP that off with TORQUE multiplication which allows more leverage on the ground than said manual transmission would have, and you wind up with a faster car all together, even though its losing a good 5-8% more power than the manual would have.
POWERBAND plays a roll in all things. If your POWERBAND is narrow, say, 5000-7000RPMS, then using a deep gear and manual transmission will get you where you want to be right? Same instance, but automatic... Suddenly you have the option of LAUNCHING your car RIGHT into your powerband, and HOLDING it there, all the way down the track.
Now if you have a crappy torque converter, dont come crying to me about why is my car slow. the torque converter is the most important part of the automatic transmission, when concerning both drivability, MPH, ET, and fuel economy. by crappy converter I mean anything other than a 9.5" converter, and lockup if you own a 700R4.
a clutch dump on a manual transmission at, say, 5000RPM is much more drivetrain loading than an automatic "on the converter's stall" launch at the same RPM. this is where things like suspension setup come to my mind, if your LCA brackets are set to their hardest setting, your drivetrain will probably un-load before you can get 60' and you will start spinning on the manual tranny. that said, you cant directly compare cars just by going from manual to automatic, and saying oh my car got slower. If your suspension is setup for a manual transmission's launch, and you install an automatic with a high stall converter, OF COURSE your car will get slower. DUH! its not rocket science people.
Typically, I would see lots of powerglide (2-speed automatic) cars with 5000RPM 10" converters running 8-9 seconds in the 1/4 mile around here. Every old Camaro out here has a glide and a converter, its just cookie cutter stuff.
Manual's have their place. gear control is not a reason to own a manual, seriouselly just pull back on the lever and your automatic downshifts. trust me, it works, I've tried it. fuel economy is not a good reason either, generally your typical 700R4 with a 2400-2800 stall 9.5" converter (lockup) will get nearly IDENTICAL MPG numbers (I have proven this myself, thank you) both city (non-locked up) and highway (locked up) as said Manual transmission. the efficiency is here, ladies and gentlemen, you dont have to put that over-weight lead bowling ball of a converter on your transmission. I think a LOT of the misinformation is coming from people who have never OWNED a properly built 700R4 with a properly built 9.5" lockup converter properly matched to their drivetrain. suddenly your automatic is not a "slush box" anymore.
I can say some good things about manuals, for instance, they are more fun to drive. I PREFER manual transmissions, in fact. If i could find a cheap enough T-56 to handle my 600~ish horsepower BELEIVE me it would be installed right now. But I cant/couldnt. I built my 700R4 with converter for under $1400 myself, and forgot about it. and fords suck.
Disclaimer: the views expressed here-in are my OPINIONS and should be TREATED as such. Except the part about Fords suck.
thank you..
i didnt know if i was going to last another day of reading this thread without replying with the same thing.
*** this is stilll going on?
And I love the guy telling DYNO DON he's full of it..
Dude...do you realize WHO HE IS? DO some research.. HINT Southern CA, 60's 70's NHRA....
YUP that's him.. ur an idiot.
Still didn't look up RONNIE SOX did ya?
CONCRETE FACT NOT OPINION :
Two identical vehicles, EXCEPT one is auto, one is manual.
The MANUAL tranny car will ALWAYS put more HP to the GROUND. This is a FACT. and I said I IDENTICAL EXCEPT For tranny..NO VARIABLES.
Automatics CAN and ARE built to take more abuse as technology gets better. And converters are much better at getting power to the ground and still being somewhat tame on the street...
But to make a BLANKMENT STATEMENT and say that AUTOMATICS are ALWAYS QUICKER at the strip....well that's stupidity.
There will ALWAYS be someone who can drive a stick well enough to spank a comparable car w/ an automatic. And it works the other way as well to.
And I love the guy telling DYNO DON he's full of it..
Dude...do you realize WHO HE IS? DO some research.. HINT Southern CA, 60's 70's NHRA....
YUP that's him.. ur an idiot.
Still didn't look up RONNIE SOX did ya?
CONCRETE FACT NOT OPINION :
Two identical vehicles, EXCEPT one is auto, one is manual.
The MANUAL tranny car will ALWAYS put more HP to the GROUND. This is a FACT. and I said I IDENTICAL EXCEPT For tranny..NO VARIABLES.
Automatics CAN and ARE built to take more abuse as technology gets better. And converters are much better at getting power to the ground and still being somewhat tame on the street...
But to make a BLANKMENT STATEMENT and say that AUTOMATICS are ALWAYS QUICKER at the strip....well that's stupidity.
There will ALWAYS be someone who can drive a stick well enough to spank a comparable car w/ an automatic. And it works the other way as well to.
LMAO
Born in 1980...so 23 or 24 tops ?
And you STILL didn't search on Ronnie Sox, or Don did you?
LMAO...
BTW.. Don set the NHRA Pro Stock Record in a STICK '69 Camaro in '77...mid to high 8 sec 1/4...
Learn to drive Spanky.
LMAO
Born in 1980...so 23 or 24 tops ?
And you STILL didn't search on Ronnie Sox, or Don did you?
LMAO...
BTW.. Don set the NHRA Pro Stock Record in a STICK '69 Camaro in '77...mid to high 8 sec 1/4...
Learn to drive Spanky.
LMAO
dude, the argument is over. If you still live in the fantasy that you can drive a stick good enough to beat a built automatic thats fine with me. I dont need to research anything. You go do your research and enjoy yourself. As far as this is concerned, Leave it at rest, no one wants to argue this one anymore. The poor dead horse has welts all over it.
Joined: Jul 2000
Posts: 6,530
Likes: 94
From: Aridzona
Car: `86 SS / `87 SS
Engine: L69 w/ TPI on top / 305 4bbl
Transmission: `95 T56 \ `88 200-4R
Originally posted by ljnowell
dude, the argument is over. If you still live in the fantasy that you can drive a stick good enough to beat a built automatic thats fine with me. I dont need to research anything. You go do your research and enjoy yourself. As far as this is concerned, Leave it at rest, no one wants to argue this one anymore. The poor dead horse has welts all over it.
dude, the argument is over. If you still live in the fantasy that you can drive a stick good enough to beat a built automatic thats fine with me. I dont need to research anything. You go do your research and enjoy yourself. As far as this is concerned, Leave it at rest, no one wants to argue this one anymore. The poor dead horse has welts all over it.
This is the first post from which I have ever had to unsubscribe. WOW, people have different opinions. Real suprise. That's why there are wars and voting. Get over it you two!
Know what you like and be comfortable with it.
Know what you like and be comfortable with it.
Joined: Jul 2000
Posts: 6,530
Likes: 94
From: Aridzona
Car: `86 SS / `87 SS
Engine: L69 w/ TPI on top / 305 4bbl
Transmission: `95 T56 \ `88 200-4R
Originally posted by ljnowell
PS dont call me a kid @sshole, I have children, a wife, and pay taxes. Truth be told I'm probably more of a man than you are.
PS dont call me a kid @sshole, I have children, a wife, and pay taxes. Truth be told I'm probably more of a man than you are.
None of those items make you more knowledgable about f-bodies than me.
I dont care if I am more knowledgeable than you. It doesnt matter. If that is what you base your happiness in life upon then fine. You can be more knowledgeable than me. If you think that makes you special in life, that is cool too. I can settle for knowing infinately more than you in all other facets of life. Is your ego inflated enough now? Good.
Joined: Jul 2000
Posts: 6,530
Likes: 94
From: Aridzona
Car: `86 SS / `87 SS
Engine: L69 w/ TPI on top / 305 4bbl
Transmission: `95 T56 \ `88 200-4R
Originally posted by ljnowell
Tell you what though, if you really want to pursue this, when you come to visit illinois again, let me know, and I will give you my address.
Tell you what though, if you really want to pursue this, when you come to visit illinois again, let me know, and I will give you my address.
dig?
Supreme Member
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 3,563
Likes: 1
Car: 1991 RS Camaro (Jet Black)
Engine: 95 383 CI (6.3) LT1
Transmission: 95 T-56



C'mon now guys, now its turning into that ridiculous "my daddy can kick your daddy's ***" argument. If you can't add to the actual topic, just don't bother to reply. Its wet enough around here with all the **** on the floor.
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Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 9,962
Likes: 5
From: Moorestown, NJ
Car: 88 Camaro SC
Engine: SFI'd 350
Transmission: TKO 500
Axle/Gears: 9-bolt w/ 3.23's
Itll always be a matter of personal preference to me. I dont think its possible to prove that one is outright better then the other.
I am sensing impending lock...
I am sensing impending lock...
Supreme Member
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 3,067
Likes: 0
From: Staunton,illinois
Car: 1966 impala , 1998 sebring vert,1978 buick regal turbo, 1991 chevy silverado 3/4ton 4x4 lifted
Engine: 283, 2.5,3.8 turbo 350
Transmission: powerglide,auto overdrive, th350,4L80
Originally posted by dimented24x7
Itll always be a matter of personal preference to me. I dont think its possible to prove that one is outright better then the other.
I am sensing impending lock...
Itll always be a matter of personal preference to me. I dont think its possible to prove that one is outright better then the other.
I am sensing impending lock...
i couldnt agree with you more i said that same thing about a page ago or so ...LOL.....
not towards you dimented24x7 but a couple others on here that insist upon starting arguements up for no reason when a thread has been dead for about a week ...lol...its just funny when folks live to argue that they are the g0d of the stickshift ........LOL....as said before this will never be settled completly its always going to start arguements with a bunch of ....bickering about i can get a faster 60 than the other guy with an auto ....considering the technology with autos has came a long way in the past 40 years i dont see how anyone can knock an auto .....and people saying stuff like "you don't need OD b/c my trans builder says so" bull**** itinerary all the damn time" because he has never met the builder and doesnt know him or how he sets up his race cars and no one knows how the other guy sets up his race cars either so lets all just go home and have a nice cup of tea or coffee and relax and let this one go guys its bound to get locked now because of new people popping in just to argue about this and not posting to the topic at all .......
Supreme Member
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 3,563
Likes: 1
Car: 1991 RS Camaro (Jet Black)
Engine: 95 383 CI (6.3) LT1
Transmission: 95 T-56
There is nothing wrong with a healthy argument, its when things get personal like above where it starts getting rough and unwanted.
Supreme Member
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 3,067
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From: Staunton,illinois
Car: 1966 impala , 1998 sebring vert,1978 buick regal turbo, 1991 chevy silverado 3/4ton 4x4 lifted
Engine: 283, 2.5,3.8 turbo 350
Transmission: powerglide,auto overdrive, th350,4L80
couldnt agree with you more
Member
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 119
Likes: 0
From: Kansas City MO
Car: 84 Z..err 92 now
Engine: 402 LS1 Procharged-14 psi-629 hp!
Transmission: T56
OK OK OK
New GTO with auto has a gas guzzler tax but the manual doesnt.. Wonder why?????
And for those people that say manuals are not for road racing? umm GM has a chip for the 4L60 that was designed to be able to road race. They tested it and the auto car went 1/10 second faster on average. The only problems they had was the oil was slinging around in the pan alot causing a loss of pressure. The program was scrapped a few years ago to work on the next generation autos.
Personally- If i have to drive the car for non pleasure trips give me a auto.
For the times when I am out playing make it a stick.
As for Ronnie Sox- he is the only document person that could out shift a auto. Wonder if he ever broke a shifter??
New GTO with auto has a gas guzzler tax but the manual doesnt.. Wonder why?????
And for those people that say manuals are not for road racing? umm GM has a chip for the 4L60 that was designed to be able to road race. They tested it and the auto car went 1/10 second faster on average. The only problems they had was the oil was slinging around in the pan alot causing a loss of pressure. The program was scrapped a few years ago to work on the next generation autos.
Personally- If i have to drive the car for non pleasure trips give me a auto.
For the times when I am out playing make it a stick.
As for Ronnie Sox- he is the only document person that could out shift a auto. Wonder if he ever broke a shifter??
Supreme Member
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 2,391
Likes: 1
From: Newark, DE
Car: '86 Camaro, '02 WRX, '87 K5, '67
Engine: 350 TPI, 2.0turbo, 383 in the works, 289-4BBL, 232, A-head 4-cylinder
Transmission: T56, 5-speed, 700R4, C4, T176, semi-auto 2-speed
Axle/Gears: 3.73, 3.90, 4.88, 3.55, 3.54, 7.00
One major drawback to the Vigilante converter is cost. They are over $700. Don't get me wrong they work extreemely well, and on a stock vehicle they probably net you the same improvement as a 50-75HP shot of giggle juice, but that's still a lot of coin. For my K5 I went with a Continental 2,500 stall non-lockup, based on Dana's (ProBuilt) recommendations. I think this is a good way to go for the average joe, or weekend racer in a street/strip car. With steep rear gears and a reasonable stall converter you will still be near lockup RPM on the highway anyway, so heat is less of an issue. You do need to install a new valve in the pump, but that isn't that big of a deal, especailly if you're swapping the converter anyway, or installing a shift kit, which everyone with a stock automatic can appreciate. BTW, the Transgo kit is awesome. I had always used B&M in the past, but will now be making the change on every car or truck I build from here on out. The quality is great and the extent of the kit is impressive.
Senior Member
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 523
Likes: 0
From: Marion, Iowa
Car: 92 Camaro
Engine: ZZ4 Crate Engine w/Hot Cam
Transmission: Rebuilt 700R4 with Transgo and MW 3
Axle/Gears: 3.73 Eaton Posi
I am sick of f**** with my TV on the 700R4 and do not want the expense and hassle of installing a manual; and I also do bracket racing... SO what I have decided on is getting a 4L60E with the right PCM and one of those programmers (Tuner Cat, LT1 edit, etc). This way you sort of have the best of a manual and an auto. You can have the thing shift when you want, but you can also have consistent bracket times.
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Posts: n/a
I dont care if I am more knowledgeable than you
what the hell??? you're 24.. and you think you know more than people on here that have been racing even before you were sperm. you are a complete idiot.. and YOU are the one looking for a fight..
you've had a driver licsence for what..8 years tops? out of those 8 years, how many have been on a drag strip?
I have children, a wife, and pay taxes
do some home work and dont insult professional racers like Dyno Don, that just shows your child like mind set, stuborness and ignorance.. which is what you are ignorant.
Supreme Member

Joined: Jun 2001
Posts: 9,550
Likes: 5
From: Charleston, SC
Car: 91 Camaro Vert
Engine: 02 LS1, HX40
Transmission: 2002 LS1 M6
Originally posted by KiLLJ0Y
some stuff
some stuff
Originally posted by mdricken
I am sick of f**** with my TV on the 700R4 and do not want the expense and hassle of installing a manual; and I also do bracket racing... SO what I have decided on is getting a 4L60E with the right PCM and one of those programmers (Tuner Cat, LT1 edit, etc). This way you sort of have the best of a manual and an auto. You can have the thing shift when you want, but you can also have consistent bracket times.
I am sick of f**** with my TV on the 700R4 and do not want the expense and hassle of installing a manual; and I also do bracket racing... SO what I have decided on is getting a 4L60E with the right PCM and one of those programmers (Tuner Cat, LT1 edit, etc). This way you sort of have the best of a manual and an auto. You can have the thing shift when you want, but you can also have consistent bracket times.
now for some help:
1. adjust your TV properly and leave it. if it cannot adjust properly, the cable has stretched. get a new cable.
2. if you think swapping to a manual is "hard" then you dont want to mess with swapping a late model aftermarket tranny into a earlier car, wiring it up, and doing the same adjustments you're sick of on the 700R4.. only with a laptop.
3. the 4L60E does not respond well to manually shifting it. (atleast in stock forms).. its best to leave it in D and program the shift points in.
and FYI, the T56 swap isnt any harder then changing a clutch. you just have to have the money for the parts.
Supreme Member
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 2,391
Likes: 1
From: Newark, DE
Car: '86 Camaro, '02 WRX, '87 K5, '67
Engine: 350 TPI, 2.0turbo, 383 in the works, 289-4BBL, 232, A-head 4-cylinder
Transmission: T56, 5-speed, 700R4, C4, T176, semi-auto 2-speed
Axle/Gears: 3.73, 3.90, 4.88, 3.55, 3.54, 7.00
This thread was a series of personal attacks almost from the beginning. It was fun for a while to see people post back and forth arguing over what can ultimately never be decided. There isn't a right and wrong to this, just a bunch of opinions.
"Opinions are like @$$holes. Everyone has one and they all stink!"
-unknown
I've got to agree with Mr.Dude though. If you think a 700R4 is too tough then a 4L60E isn't going to be any easier, especially with having to program everything. Automatics are complicated, and it's a lot tougher to get them to do what you want that it is a stick.
The T56 swap is fairly easy in theory. There are a lot of little things to consider to really do the job right though. The info is certainly available right here on TGO though. There are plenty of people who've done this swap, some several times that can give you good advice.
"Opinions are like @$$holes. Everyone has one and they all stink!"
-unknown
I've got to agree with Mr.Dude though. If you think a 700R4 is too tough then a 4L60E isn't going to be any easier, especially with having to program everything. Automatics are complicated, and it's a lot tougher to get them to do what you want that it is a stick.
The T56 swap is fairly easy in theory. There are a lot of little things to consider to really do the job right though. The info is certainly available right here on TGO though. There are plenty of people who've done this swap, some several times that can give you good advice.
Senior Member
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 523
Likes: 0
From: Marion, Iowa
Car: 92 Camaro
Engine: ZZ4 Crate Engine w/Hot Cam
Transmission: Rebuilt 700R4 with Transgo and MW 3
Axle/Gears: 3.73 Eaton Posi
My TV cable was not the main reason I decided on a 4L60E. I want to have full control over the transmission and also be able to play with the shift points to get the best ETs and drivability. If you can change shift points on a 700R4 as accurately or as EASILY as a 4L60E tell me how. I thought you have to start taking off the drain pan on a 700R4 to do radical changes that can't be done with the TV cable.
Also... I know a manual swap is harder than changing a clutch... adding a clutch pedal, hyd. press booster, center council mods, crossmember mods. It's also considerably more expensive.
I'm not trying to knock you manual guys, I'm just trying to explain why I'm going the auto route.
Also... I know a manual swap is harder than changing a clutch... adding a clutch pedal, hyd. press booster, center council mods, crossmember mods. It's also considerably more expensive.
I'm not trying to knock you manual guys, I'm just trying to explain why I'm going the auto route.
Last edited by mdricken; Jan 7, 2005 at 01:57 PM.
Supreme Member
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 2,391
Likes: 1
From: Newark, DE
Car: '86 Camaro, '02 WRX, '87 K5, '67
Engine: 350 TPI, 2.0turbo, 383 in the works, 289-4BBL, 232, A-head 4-cylinder
Transmission: T56, 5-speed, 700R4, C4, T176, semi-auto 2-speed
Axle/Gears: 3.73, 3.90, 4.88, 3.55, 3.54, 7.00
You can't radically change the way a 700R4 shifts without modifying things in the valvebody. To set the shift points you need to modify the governor assembly. To adjust shift firmness you need to modify control valves in the valvebody. Screwing with the TV cable is a surefre way to destroy a 700R4. You set it by the auto adjust procedure and then just leave it alone.
I understand what you're trying to accomplish. Personally I'd just go with a T56. I drive a stick every day though, so it's no major change for me. One of the major benefits of a stick to me is complete contorl ove rhow the trans acts. I can shift at low rpm to save gas and just cruise, or I can bang gears for maximum performance. I'm also experimenting with feathering the clutch on th autocross course to see if I can lower my lap times. It's an old motorcycle trick that I'm experimenting with.
I understand what you're trying to accomplish. Personally I'd just go with a T56. I drive a stick every day though, so it's no major change for me. One of the major benefits of a stick to me is complete contorl ove rhow the trans acts. I can shift at low rpm to save gas and just cruise, or I can bang gears for maximum performance. I'm also experimenting with feathering the clutch on th autocross course to see if I can lower my lap times. It's an old motorcycle trick that I'm experimenting with.
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Joined: Jun 2001
Posts: 9,550
Likes: 5
From: Charleston, SC
Car: 91 Camaro Vert
Engine: 02 LS1, HX40
Transmission: 2002 LS1 M6
Originally posted by mdricken
My TV cable was not the main reason I decided on a 4L60E. I want to have full control over the transmission and also be able to play with the shift points to get the best ETs and drivability. If you can change shift points on a 700R4 as accurately or as EASILY as a 4L60E tell me how. I thought you have to start taking off the drain pan on a 700R4 to do radical changes that can't be done with the TV cable.
My TV cable was not the main reason I decided on a 4L60E. I want to have full control over the transmission and also be able to play with the shift points to get the best ETs and drivability. If you can change shift points on a 700R4 as accurately or as EASILY as a 4L60E tell me how. I thought you have to start taking off the drain pan on a 700R4 to do radical changes that can't be done with the TV cable.
but if you konw how to go about doing it, im not sure what the question is..... lol.
Originally posted by mdricken
Also... I know a manual swap is harder than changing a clutch... adding a clutch pedal, hyd. press booster, center council mods, crossmember mods. It's also considerably more expensive.
Also... I know a manual swap is harder than changing a clutch... adding a clutch pedal, hyd. press booster, center council mods, crossmember mods. It's also considerably more expensive.
its more work, but its not any harder.
flywheel clutch, ect are the same as the clutch job. bolt it up with a aftermarket crossmember and its the exact same work so far.
the pedals are just 4 bolts. the clutch cyl is 3 holes and pretty easy to drill and install.. the same bolts holding the pedals on also held on the brake booster... so it just slips out of the way.
the floorpan is easily cut with tin snips, and the console just requires swapping the top plate to the manual version.
the speedo requires a converter box, and you need to extend the park wires to the clutch...and thats it.
sounds like alot more "extra" work then it is.
Member
Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 379
Likes: 0
From: Shelbyville, IN
Car: 92' RS Camaro
Engine: L98
Transmission: 700R4
I think there's alot of ppl on TGO who have "raced their whole life" and have never been to a track.
It's a good laugh to see how many people have raced for 30yrs or my father has raced for 30yrs, ya know I think my dog made a couple 9 sec passes and he's a fox terrier. Instead of NAWS, he was using PAWS! :lala:
Just use what you want and try to make the best out of it and prove people wrong with Timeslips not heresay...
Last edited by Chrome; Jan 11, 2005 at 06:02 PM.
Originally posted by KiLLJ0Y
HAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAHHAHAHHAHAHAHAHHAHAHHAHAHAHHAHAHAHHAHAHHAHHAHAHAHHAHAHAHHAHAHHAHAHAHHAHA
what the hell??? you're 24.. and you think you know more than people on here that have been racing even before you were sperm. you are a complete idiot.. and YOU are the one looking for a fight..
you've had a driver licsence for what..8 years tops? out of those 8 years, how many have been on a drag strip?
just because you have these, doesnt mean your brain is not that of a child.. any retard can get married and procreate... look at Mike Tyson...
do some home work and dont insult professional racers like Dyno Don, that just shows your child like mind set, stuborness and ignorance.. which is what you are ignorant.
HAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAHHAHAHHAHAHAHAHHAHAHHAHAHAHHAHAHAHHAHAHHAHHAHAHAHHAHAHAHHAHAHHAHAHAHHAHA
what the hell??? you're 24.. and you think you know more than people on here that have been racing even before you were sperm. you are a complete idiot.. and YOU are the one looking for a fight..
you've had a driver licsence for what..8 years tops? out of those 8 years, how many have been on a drag strip?
just because you have these, doesnt mean your brain is not that of a child.. any retard can get married and procreate... look at Mike Tyson...
do some home work and dont insult professional racers like Dyno Don, that just shows your child like mind set, stuborness and ignorance.. which is what you are ignorant.
I am done with this thread, its totally pointless to keep arguing.
Have a nice day, troll.
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TinnMann2
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