I had a guy give me a T-5 and bellhousing out of an 84 Camaro that was behind a 305. Since I am in dire need of a rebuild on my 700R4 2 speed trans...... I'm thinking of putting it in my car as a temporary fix but it isn't in too good of condition....

What kind of prices am I looking at for a pedal assembly and a hydraulic clutch setup? The guy thinks he still has the flywheel, clutch, and pressure plate laying around so I may get away without having to buy those items.

Will the speedo gear out of the 700R4 fit into the T-5 housing?

Also, everyone on these boards seems to call a T-5 a CW for some reason, why? Mine says Borg-Warner on the case. Was this trans swapped from another vehicle into the 84 Camaro????

The input shaft wobbles really badly, what do I need to do to fix this cheaply, or should I just forget the whole thing and be glad the trans was free???? I really want to stick to the 700R4, I just don't have the money to rebuild it "correctly" at the moment and would like to be able to use the car as a backup should something go wrong with my 139K Nissan pickup with the very wornout front end and original clutch.... Not to mention lousy brakes......

 

WC (world class) t-5's are the T-5's that came in 88+ f-bodies (could be 89+ don't remember). They are much stronger than the Non-WC T-5's.

 

The shafts have a little wobble in them, if its really moving around you need it rebuilt.

 

Thanks for the info guys. The shaft has a ton of wiggle in it. Way more than any manual I've ever messed with..... If I can find a book on it and can fix it cheaply, maybe I will sell it and make some cash to put toward my 700R4. As much as I don't want to...... It looks like I'm going to have to rebuild the 700R4 myself. Just bought a book on it last night...... I really don't want to wait until April to fix this thing and I won't have the money for a Probuilt Unit until I get my Tax return.....

 

The input shaft should wobble just a bit. It really isn't totally stabilized until it's in the pilot bearing. If the wobble is excessive it needs new bearings between the input shaft and the mainshaft.

Your '84 is a non-World Class (WC). The F-body didn't get the WC trans until '88. The non-WC boxes are significantly weaker than the WC ones. If you've got a 350, even a stock one, you may want to reconsider this swap.

Pedals should be no more than $50 from the bone yard. A new hydraulic assembly from GM is only about $97, so a used one shouldn't be much.

Make sure you get a flywheel that matches your engine. You'll need a 153 tooth flywheel for your engine's rear main seal type.

 

You're right, I was going brain dead for a minute.... I have a one piece rear main seal in my engine (1989 4 bolt-main hydraulic roller block...) Duh!!!!! Even though the guy has the factory flywheel, it won't work.

I knew the trans was weak and I was just going to do a whole lot of work to use the car to drive to work in case my pickup broke down.... But it looks like the cost is going to escalate beyond reasonable for the purpose I had in mind. I can put the $400 +/- that it would cost me for parts (input shaft bearings, pilot bearing, flywheel, pedals, throwout bearing, fluids, shifter ****, hydraulic cluthch unit) and apply that toward my rebuilt 700R4.

How much are new input shaft bearings?? I'm wondering if it's worth it to install those to increase the resale value. If they are only $30, I can probably sell it for $125 and make $95 profit... Surely it should work well for someone behind a 4 or weak V-6..... maybe install it behind a Quad-4 in an Opel GT......

 

The whole rebuild kit is only $185, so just the input shaft bearings can't be that expensive. They are a bunch of individual rollers, and can be a pain to get lined up.

 

Well I wouldent suggest rebuilding the 700R4 yourself, its not a DIY transmission. Quite a few people have done one themselfs but I would not suggest it if you have no automatic rebuild experiance. The non WC T5 is fine! It's not going to break just because you have more then 280tq or what ever its rated at. The only reason they break is people abuse them, I'm not talking about just agressive driving, I mean abuse the crap out of them drop the clutch downshift at high RPM that kinda abuse breaks them and every other transmission even the "WC T5 or T56".
Rebuilding the T5 is a cake walk and besides if it goes you can step up to a 88+ T5 or pick up another 87- T5 cheaper then another 700R4.

 

I think I could rebuild the 700R4 with no problems after looking at the teardown in the book I just bought. The two main problems I see are that I don't have enough workbench space to lay everything out and there has been machine work done to my current transmission to increase the number of clutches. I don't know how much was machined or where.....

Therefore, I think I will buy a Street/Strip model from Pro-Built. I need to call him and ask him what the differences are between his Road Race and Street/Strip models are other than the Street/Strip model has 8 clutch disks instead of 7. I have burned up two transmissions with 7 disks so I would like the 8 disks. But I wonder if more has been done to provide internal cooling in Overdrive on the Road Race model....... I am planning on about a 5000 mile drive this summer on vacation (if I have any money left after fixing the car). I haven't had a real vacation in about 4 years.......

I won't throw away the T-5 for a while. I understand there is a place that rebuilds the Non-WC T-5 to WC standards. I think they install a gear section that is made of way better steel and it costs about $750 for the rebuild. The gear section is $450 by itself. It was posted on another thread. Guess I need to chase down the info while I can. BTW The input shaft bearings are $16.50, don't know what seals I would need to do the install with. Who knows where I can download a teardown diagram for the T-5???

The major reason why I would prefer an automatic to a stick is that I have lots of pieces missing out of both knees (cartilage).... Not to mention lots of additonal pieces growing in them (arthritis).... Eventually I will need to get both knees replaced so I really don't want to have a stickshift as much as I love them. Two of the three 1969 Camaro's and one of the three 68 Camaro's I've owned over the years have been stick shifts. I had a Doug Nash 5 speed in a 69 Camaro back in 1981..... I Loved it!!!! At least until it blew a synchro in 3rd gear and I lost the engine from over-revving....

 

This is getting to be a load of BS about the T5. If you don't powershift them and no 4000rpm launches the transmission can last for a while. I have had mine behind this 350 for about 7 months now and have not been easy on it and it is doing fine. Even been on the drag strip this fall.

 

Shhhhh! Be quite or we wont be able to pick up used 87- T5's for $50 anymore.

 

What fun is a stick shift and a hot engine if you can't powershift them????

 

You know, your right. An auto may be better suited for you.

 

Exactly, the whole point of a stick is to drive hard. If you have to baby it you might as well have an auto.

 

I don't consider using the clutch when shifting "having to baby it".

 

I always use the clutch when I shift. I just don't always take my foot off the gas : )

 

I don't baby an Auto either. I don't normally powershift a Stick (shift without using a clutch) But even when I do use the clutch while racing, I don't take my foot off the gas. I just shift fast. The idea behind putting that T-5 in my car was just to get it running in case my old pickup croaked. I would still have a way to get to work. I have a 40 mile drive to work every day......

The pickup needs calipers in the worst way!!!! They suck air into the system and so I have really lousy brakes. you bleed them and 20 minutes later they are bad again. I bled a whole quart of fluid through those things and they are still bad after about 20 minutes. I also have 139,000 on the original clutch disc. So you see whyI wanted to get the Camaro going even a little bit until I could afford to do it right. Unfortunately, the cost to do the conversion isn't looking good. I'll just have to trust that the big guy upstairs :hail:
will keep my pickup together until I get the Camaro running.....

However, if I trash one more automatic.... I will go to a stick that will handle way more than my engine puts out!!!!

 

From what I understand that is the definition of power shifting.......

 

What we always called powershifting was shifting without pushing in the clutch. You just pull it down really hard. The second to third is kind of hard and some people will use the clutch on that one, but the 1-2 and 3-4 are easy.... Except on the transmission.....

:lala:

 

The definition of powershifting in common usage is shifting while your foot is on the gas, while popping the clutch in and out as fast as possible.

Shifting without using the clutch is called? Nuts I guess. I'd never shift anything I cared about that way. My uncles beater truck, or my jeep, but nothing I drive on the street. Hell, I can take off in my jeep without using the clutch...

 

That was what we called racing.... You shift quicker if you don't have to use the clutch.... Not reccomended for the daily driver!!!! I don't drive that way now, but when you're young and don't know any better......

 

I take a few days off a ghesh.


Power shifting is when you dont use a clutch to shift also known as bang shifting. But since most of the time you have to wait for a syncro to line up you loose more time power shifting then using the clutch on most tranmissions.

 

i had a wc-t-5 in my 5.7 88 iroc,hooker shorties,slp muffler,pulleys,cut air boxes,performance resources chip,9-bolt 3.27gears,17"eagles w/275/40/17 comp t/a's,this car would run consistant 13.70s w/1.86 60' times,6months beating the crap out of that t-5 it also had a hurst shifter,the track is at 2700'.......