IVE BEEN OUT IN THE COLD FOR 10 HOURS -13 WITH THE WIND BLOWING BECAUSE I CANT GET THIS STUPID CLUTCH TO WORK... i just finished the t5 swap and my clutch wont engage. the pedal just sponges to the floor woth no effort. ive bleed a half a gallon of fluid thought it and no go. ive put a new master and no go. i pump it up hold it to the floor and release the pressure. it builds back up but not enough to move the clutch. could my fork not be connected to my throw out? i would say it would explode the seals in the slave if it wasnt but maybee not. i dont understand what else it could be. any help on a special way to bleed these things will be well appreiciated. o by the way the clutch is new never even used yet.

 

gm says to gravity bleed it. i never had any luck trying to do it that way. i use a pheniox injector and a reverse bleed and never had a problem.

 

I have to bleed mine twice for different reasons and the following way always worked for me.

First I gravity bleed it until it came out in a near steady stream. Then I kinda reverse bleed it by pushing the slave push-rod in over and over for what seemed like forever. Then I hooked everything back up and bleed it like you would brakes. Pump it up hold it and have someone open the bleeder for a few minutes. Usually after the "revese bleed" the clutch felt good, but I did the regular pump and bleed just as a to be sure thing.

Good luck

 

so this seems to you like its caused by air in the slave? when i push the slave rod in and out do i need to keep cracking the bleeder?

 

No, my idea was to drive the air up and out the top of the resivour_sp? It seeemed to work as a buddy said a lot of air bubbles were coming to the top.

 

I have a similar problem.

The dowel that secures the tube from the reservoir made its way loose and the pressure from pressing on the clutch forced the tube away from the clutch slave and i lost all my pressure.

Well, after getting home, and sercuring the dowel/pin i tried to bleed them similiarly and still get little travel in my clutch slave.

I compressed the clutch slave by hand by pressing on the clutch fork, while holding it steady, i bled some, and then tightened the schraeder valve, and let the fork go back to its original positiion. I repeated this process and then had my dad do the brake way....i have great pedal resistance but it only seems to make the rod in the slave travel about an inch or less. It still doesnt pull the bearing far enough away it seems.

Could it be my throwout bearing is loose, or a flywheel problem?

Any further recommendations on bleeding?

i really dont want to drop my tranny just to check the condition of my clutch assy.

 

I think you moved the bearing in the fork when you used the fork to press in the slave actuator rod. Check and measure exactly how much the actuator rod is moving wehn pressing the clutch. IIRC, the spec is .54".

 

my spitfire was a PITA to bleed too... until one day i got the bright idea to order a speed bleeder, just like i got for the brakes..


now i just crack the valve, pump, add a lil fluid, pump, close the valve and its perfect.


somthing to look into atleast.

 

speed bleeder be cheaper than the pheniox injector too.

 

ok i appreciate the info on pheonix/speed bleeders but i am not interested in buying anything regardless of cost. i want to learn to bleed this properly with the basics.


It turns out my clutch fork was already pressed against the fingers in the clutch assembly, and pressing on the pedal only added more pressure.

How do i start the fork out at a sooner point so the pedal applies the TOB/fork to the fingers when needed..

Do i hand compress the fork/clutch slave moreand bleed as i do, or what? really need help...

PROBLEM: Fork/TOB are pressed against the fingers without any pedal pressure....how do i fix.

 

im assuming the bleeder valve is on the slave right?

id take the slave cyl off the trans, have someone hold it high above the master cyl and bleed it that way..... then you can hold and move the slave as you need to.

 

think theres any way for me to get the air out of mine without taking the bleeder off. i stripped the allen nut .. @$%%#% %^#

 

Best way i found to do it is to bleed the slave liek a brake. Disconnect it fron the bellhousing hold it at 45* w/ bleeder on the top. Have someone pump the clutch and bleed it then refill. Worked for me everytime i did it.

 

yea... you can use a pair of vice grips, remove it, and install somthing like this:
http://www.speedbleeder.com/

you can also get them in stock at most NAPA stores now.

rather then buying another bleeder screw (and you need one) spend $2 more, and you'll be able to bleed it by yourself in 2mins.

 

ok guys now i bought a new slave bleed it off the bell i felt pressure in it while it was removed so i pushed on the pedal to pressure it up and bleed it and it wouldnt go down so i stepped a lil harder and i heard a litle pop noise then it when down.now i have fluid leakin out the front of my brand new master cyl and i get little to no presure. is it possible i blew it up? ... i dont know whats goin on. also i noticed i bent my master cyl rod when doing the bleeding somehow???? im thinking my master cyl isnt alighned right with my pedal since i did do the swap myself i had no idea were to put the hole though the firewall so i went estimation. my pedal doest seem to return all the way to the top as well it. seems to linger somewhat behind my brake in relation to how far they stick out. when i look at my clutch fork while my pedals being pressed it looks like it only moves an 3/4 inch??also how would pushing on the fork to move the slave rod in mess up the thowout bearing ..???also can anyone post me a pic of there master rod were it comes though the inside of the firewall ????

 

?

 

it's attached to the clutch pedal