What clutch is good for about 400 ft lbs/ 400 HP? I want to use slicks and it will be in a car with a T-5. I want to get the best clutch in there the first time and upgrade the tranny later. I know the T-5 should die behind 400+ ft lbs, but I will go easy on it untill I can get a hold of a stronger 5 speed. Thanks.

 

Ok, first you are going to need the bigger flywheel, used in trucks. then you can use the 12 inch clutch, opposed to the 10 inch stocker. but, this big flywheel willnot fit in your weenie T5 bellhousing, so buy the lakewood housing and your good.

 

Cool, thanks I hadn't even thought of that, but seems like a good idea.

 

Yeah, thats what we did to my brothers 400. he noticed his bellhousing was cracked, which turned out to be a good thing since the 400 flywheel didn't even come close to fitting. Good thing about the lakewood bellhousing is a Muncie, or T-10 will bolt to it too, so upgrades are easy. they are NHRA approved as well.

 

Your tranny is a M20? Is that like an old muncie that has a rediculously low 1st gear? Cause I have a 66 Chevy truck 4 speed 3.54 posi rear and on the tranny it says M20 written on it with welding chalk from the factory, and the 1st gear seems like its 4 to 1 and I never use it unless I am pulling out a tree stump. LOL

 

400 hp.

slicks.

upgraded clutch

T5

planning on ditching T5 eventually


yet you're talking about buying another bellhousing, flywheel, and a new clutch........ alot of money to be wasting...

think about this. why would you have 400hp, slicks and a upgraded clutch....

because you intend to USE that 400hp and try to put it to the ground.....

now if you had street tires or somthing, the T5 might last a reasonable amount of time..... with slicks, its probly going to blow within a rather short peroid of time.


you're much better off setting you'reself up for another trans to begin with.... if you're going with the 4spd and the lakewood belhousing will work with it, then go for it..... but if you intend to go the T56 route, i wouldnt waste my money on performance clutches and such.

 

I just want to get the 5 speed in there now so I prolly won't run slicks until I upgrade it later.

 

Clean the rest of the goo off that truck trans and I bet you'll find and S in front of M and a 4 in front of the 20. My guess is it's an SM420, which was a cast iron truck 4-speed with a granny low 1st gear (6.XX:1). The M20 is a regular aluminum case Muncie with wide gear ratios compared to the M21/M22 which were close ratio boxes.

Plenty of people run 10s with the normal 10.5" clutch and flywheel combo, which doesn't require you to purchase an expensive aftermarket bellhousing and then make sure that the bellhousing is centered. They key is to use the right clutch. I'd recommend a SPEC Stage III. Break it in properly and I don't think you'll ever have a problem. If you use the aftermaket T56 you can just reuse your clutch and flywheel, which will save you money in the long run.

Just my 2 cents.

 

Yeah its iron and heavy as hell. It has that Granny gear in it, I was just wondering, thanks for clearing that up. Also that's what I wanted to know about the clutch!! SPEC stage III huh, where can I get one, Summit?Jegs?

 

SPEC sells them. I don't think any other vendors carry their products, you have to buy directly from them. Their website is www.specwr.com and ask for PN SC193. That's the stage 3 kit (clutch disc, p.plate, TO bearing). Explain to them what you are doing and they will set you up with the right facings for the disc so it isn't overly harsh. They also have a matching steel flywheel under PN SC19SF. Stay away from aluminum flywheels. You could also just get your stock one surfaced if you are on a tight budget.

 

I just put a new clutch on the 89 and I did get the flywheel resurfaced, it was like a mirror...NOT GOOD.

 

M20 was the wide-ratio Muncie 4 speed. The M21 and M22 were close ratio.

The M20 had something like 2.54 first gear I think. The close ratio boxes had 2.20 first gears.

 

why not?

 

Because you can't reuse the t5 junk after you upgrade, just keep the stock t5 and go easy and save up for the t56.

 

ok, gotcha. i knew that the t5 wouldnt interchange to the t56. i just thought he meant that the t56 was not worth any performance clutches. i was just curious, since i have a t56 on my IROC