I have an 84 z/28 with hydraulic the clutch set up, and I'm looking to install the manual linkage because I cant get enough disengagement with the hydraulic system. Will the 84 pedals work or do I have to change them out to the 83 pedals? If the 84 pedals will work does any additonal holes need cut into the fire wall for any of the manual linkage. This osunds like areal pain to convert but I've been struggling with this clutch problem way to long.

 

you need to get the pedals out of a car with manual linkage. my frined looked forever for these, and finally found them from somewhere up in canada. i don't believe he needed to cut any new holes for the linkage. just make sure you get everything: pedals, z bar, pivot ball, and the bellhousing and fork and stuff. and i'm almost positive you'll have to tap the hole in the block to get the pivot ball in.

 

I had this dissengagement problem when I briefly had a Manual in my car. I had to replace the hydraulics because they were leaking internally. You couldn't see it leaking but they were. I also cut the pushrod on the clutch master cylinder and threaded it so it would be adjustable. This allows you to change where on the pedal stroke the clutch grabs.

 

I appreciate your thoughts on this issue, I'm in a cross roads at this point, that is stay with hydraulic and try to continue to make it work or go with the more for sure and install the manual linkage. What are your thoughts??
The car is running really well 11.02@126.5, but I dont want to continue missing gears, not good at 7500rpm and then it gets into the rev limiter.

 

obviously, the clutch setup you have is broken.


so you have a choice.

• fix your car correctly
• convert to a inferior mechanical linkage with limited parts availiblity

i would suggest you just fix the problem you have.. if its not a problem with the hyd linkage, then you have some problem with your clutch setup. if it was my car, id figure out what was wrong with it, and fix it.


but if you want to convert to a 83 camaro mechanical linkage, well i have one i could sell ya... but think about this:

theres a reason every new car has a hyd clutch linkage.

 

Maybe if I replace the oem plastic slave with an aluminum slave and cut the push rod, thread it so it is adjustable, maybe that would give some oppurtunities that I currenlty don't have. I'm getting tired of pulling the tranny in & out of the car. I have it painted underneith and waxed, everytime I disassemble, somtething else gets a nick or scratch.

 

Sorry but i'll take a mechanical linkage clutch over a hydraulic anyday.

 

Do you have personal experience with this or is it just your opinion? Have you made the chaange from hydraulic to manual?

 

give me one good reason why.



i can give 4 or 5 excelent reasons for hyd off the top of my head... but i'll wait to see what you have to say.

 

i know you're talking to pasky, but i just wanted to say ive owned and daily driven cars with OLD hyd setups(mid 70s spitfire), mechanical setups, and modern hydraulic setups.


the new hyd setups are BY FAR the best ever created... no bind from engine movement, no adjustments, still measurable amount of feedback, and you dont wear out your clutch if you forget to adjust it...

 

I appreciate your input and will consider before I make a drastic change.

 

Nothing special, its just personal preference, I like the ability to adjust and don't have to bleed the hydraulics. I like the clutch a bit firmer as well. I loved my 65 gto's clutch pedal and with the mechanical linkage, its just simple for me. But no magic reason, just personal preference.

No I have never done the swap from hydraulics to Z-bar, but would like to but just don't have the time. Sorry =/.

 

but if you dont adjust it right, or adjust it at all, what happens?

the firmness of the clutch, while mostly dependant upon the pressureplate, can always be adjusted a number of ways.

and the hyd linkage is simpler. master cyl, hose, slave cyl. 3 parts. what could be simpler?

if the hydraulics take a bleeder screw (like my spitfire for example) get a speed bleeder... bleed and put fresh fluid in the whole system in about 5mins.. (or less)

if its a modern sealed system like my T56, its prebled from the factory.. just bolt in and go.

 

Honestly you should be fine just replacing the clutch master and slave. There are aluminum ones you can buy if that's what you want. They can still form leaks over time though. I would thread the pushrod so you can adjust the pedal height and leave it at that for now. Hydraulics setups stay adjusted.

There wouldn't be as many cars on the road with hydraulic setups as there are if they didn't work good enough.