ok ive been messing with this thing trying to get it straight for a while now. first i put the clutch disc in wrong. so i fixed it now i can get it to go and all but its harder than i expected to get it into gear. it doesnt grind i just have to put more pressure than normal on it in order for it to go in or from one to the other. the only gear that grinds is reverse but im guessing thats the synchros???? if i pump up the clutch realy fast it seems to help.i know that there is no air in it so i have eliminated that as a problim.also when i put together the shifter asemle i remembered that there was a small ball and a spring under one part of it but i cant get that peice off to check if i put it in or not. any suggestions is helpful

thanks:hail:

 

sounds like aire, there is no syncro for reverse in these, thats why it only grinds when you try and go into reverse, but going into your forwards gears and forcing it will wear your syncros bad, so your clutch still isn't disengaging is your problem..once it is right you can shove in the clutch, try reverse and there should be no grind after a second..

 

use 5th gear, then down to reverse, helps it get synced

 

but if he really has to shove it into 5th then he will soon wreck that syncro...just have to figure out why the input shaft isn't stopping

 

could i have bent those weird springy lookin things when i had it in wrong? also as of now if i push in the clutch when its off and in gear when i roll it i can hear the friction of the clutch rubbing just a little on the flywheel??? y?? i bench blead it for and hour then massaged all the fluid back and forth though the master and slave it cant be air could it no bubbles were coming out when i was done plus it felt rock hard?? however the pedal is pretty easy to push down easier than my girlfriends pontiac sunfire.. but the clutch fork is hard as hell to push on with my hand?? it seems like the slave needs only to extend like another millimeter to get good shifts. how could i do that? i tried putting a layer of tin foil as a test in the cup on the shift fork. it worked great but only for the first few shifts. i didnt take into consideration that the fuild would only slowly return into the master because of the pressure i applied with the foil anyway all help is appreiciated. thanks guys

 

actually i ran into one once that was missing a peice, make sure the little bushing where the rod hooks on your clutch pedal is good and no play and also at the slave cyl where they go into the fork, there is usually a little plastic cap that locks the rods into the slave...they can take some room up, don't know if that might help or not on yours

 

yea the pedal one is there but the slave cap i tossed because i wasnt paying attention to it and thought the new one would come with one. but the way i see it is that it doesnt realy matter how much space i have between the slave rod and the fork because the rod is still gonna be pushed back in to the slave just that much more and the fork alway returns to the same point by pushing the rod back into the slave. also the rod will only move out of the slave a certain distance no matter how much space i put there. am i right?? i guess i could be wrong maybee i should find a cap?

 

Measure the amount of distance the yoke is moving. I don't remember the actual distance its supposed to move. Also, you should definitely have the plastic cup on the end of the slave cylinder shaft, it helps get the last little bit needed to fully disengage the clutch.

 

how the heck will i ever find one of those?