well im still having trouble getting this thing straight. i was told it was hard to get into gears(any) because of a missing plastic piece on the end of the slave actuator rod. i made my self a bushing about the same as the stock one because my stock is gone i still am having the same problem. i have only drivin this thing 4 times since then because its getting now so that it wont even go into gear without alot of force(no grinding tho) i dont get it ive looked at alot of other post and come up with nothing. i dont know whats keeping this thing from working right the clutch pilot, thowout is all new. help me get this lawn decoration on the street plz

 

bent clutch fork..I had the same thing happen to my 84...


Mark

 

Have you put a new pilot bearing or bushing in it?

 

yea i put a new pilot bushing in greased it up a little. the clutch fork however could be bent because i put the disc in backwards the first time and the pedal wouldnt go to the floor so i pushed harder and bent the rod on the master.(stupid but i didnt think about that) i would guess that my clutch fork may be bent as well. do i have to remove the tranny to change forks. please say no this is the third time its been out and i havent even driven it. also i can hear the clutch grab just a hair when its in nuetral and i roll it in gear with the clutch in??

 

Although I don't klnow if your trans has a syncro reverse, the gm test for proper clutch release is to let the engine idle in neutral, depress the clutch and count to 10, then put it into reverse (if you have a syncro reverse this test will not be valid) without going to any other gear. If it goes in without grinding, the clutch is releasing enough.

 

grinds into reverse like a wood chipper unless i yank it quik... so is it the clutch fork for sure?

thanks
jeff

 

Mine also grinds going into reverse unless I wait a second before going into reverse I was wondering if that was normal???

 

Yeah, it's normal. Reverse gear isn't synchonized. Just put it in 5th and then pull it down. Works for mine.

 

i looked under my car and it looks ok doesnt look bent but im guessing if it is bent then its a small bend.

hey RB83L69 does this sound like the prob to you? i would hate to pull the trans and figure out its not. i know you have helped me a million other times on dif stuff and were always right. what do u think?

markd231 how did you figure out yours was bent was it noticeable.

also what should the clutch pedal feel like when i push on it as well. it seems real easy to push but im almost 100% postitive there not a bubble in it because i bench blead it for like an hour and worked the rods back in forth till no air came out.

:hail:

 

bent fork....


not too hard to replace, but ya gotta pull the trans back down...

i have no plastic cup thing on the end of my slave cylinder and it works pefectly...

 

Is this the same disc that got put in backwards? That usually turns them from a disc to a dish, and makes them not able to be released, with any amount of actuator travel that's available.

If so, I'd get another one.

A fork is real cheap, like $30 or less, so if it was mine, I'd do that too. I doubt it would be the problem unless it was bent in such a way that its strength was compromised, but it's possible that could have happened.

 

is there any way to fix the disc? how does it ruin it i didnt see anything damaged when i flipped it back around.seems like it only needs like a millimeter more to release all the way. i wish i knew that before. that was a expensive waste of money and knuckle skin thanks

 

Don't know of any way to fix the disc.... I seem to recall at the time it happened saying something about that the disc might be hosed.... what happens is, the hub part where those springs are, gets smashed up HARD against the flywheel, and when you tighten the clutch bolts down the disc gets bent a quarter inch or more, and that's why the clutch won't release AT ALL with it backwards. It's possible for the hub to actually get punched completely out of the disc by it being in backwards that way. But usually either the hub or the outer part of the disc merely ends up getting changed from flat to bowl-shaped, and when that happens, the friction of the disc isn't parallel to the flywheel and clutch surface any more, so the clutch would have to move much farther than the release mechanism can actually move it, in order to clear the disc completely.

At least it doesn't usually damage the clutch itself or the flywheel.

The slave cyl rod is supposed to travel something between 1/2" and 5/8". If it moves that much, then the hydraulics are OK.

Sorry, but if it's damaged, replacing other stuff won't get it to work right. I suppose you could take the disc to where you bought it and compare it to a new one, and you'd be able to spot the difference right away I'd expect.

 

well.....i worked on it again today. kinda got weird results. what i did was took the slave off looked at the clutch fork and it apears to be fine.so then i was in the mood to expeirement since i already needed a disc figure what the heck cant get any worse. so i took out the actuator rod on the slave and replaced it with a 1cm longer one than put the slave back on. .. well it shifts and drives like a dream... smooth no grinding no hard shifting works like original. so i took it up the street and was goin easy on it after 10 minutes all the sudden i heard a bang noise then my pedal sunk to the floor and i had no pressure and it wouldnt go into gear. well i pulled over because i thought the clip broke off the master rod or something. no pressure what so ever. well i start to pump and after a minute it was fine again???? tried to get it to do it again but no luck..... what gives it finaly starts workin then this happened??? any ideas?

thanks again