where's the best place to get these things...i noticed ebay is kinda expensive...are they available at salvage and bone yards??? I heard you can get them for under a grand, but they are like 1500+ on ebay..

Most of the ones you see for 1500 come with the clutch, pedals and the whole nine yards. They are expensive because they are worth it. I would also check various 4th gen site classifieds.

They come from wrecked cars. So anywhere that you might typically find parts from wrecked cars being sold, is a potential source. Amazingly enough, that would include junkyards.

The reason they cost so much, is because that's what people are willing to pay. It's supply & demand: limited supply, large demand. The reason people are willing to pay that much, is because it's by far the best available option for an upgrade to an older car (and most especially to a third gen), in terms of cost/benefit. Plus, people who lunch one in their LT1 car, have basically no other choice than to get another one.

When you get one, get the bell housing, the clutch fork, the little spacer piece for the hydraulics, the flywheel, the clutch, the hydraulics themselves, the shifter, the hardware, and any other piece you can get your hands on. Those other little parts are EXPENSIVE to buy at the dealer if they don't come with the transmission, and there is NO SUBSTITUTE; and if you don't pay whatever it costs for a COMPLETE junk assembly ($1500, if that's what it takes), you'll find yourself paying $2000 for a part junk and part new assembly, all the while thinking you're "saving money" by buying a cheaper transmission.

You can get an aftermarket T-56 it`ll fit a standard 4or 5 speed bellhousing, it`s a tad longer so a custom driveshaft and torque arm are needed...Spohn sells the T/A...Last time I checked at LIberty trans in Taylor MI they were 1800. brand new w/ a warranty

yea.

and then you just have to cut the trans tunnel out of your floorpan and weld it up a little higher.. that way your drivetrain angles wont be way out of wack.

I may be selling my T56 setup, comes with SPEC Flywheel, new clutch kit, Spohn x-member and TQ Arm with DS loop, pedals, hydraulics, etc...
I am probably going to part out the Lt1 drivetrain in the Trans Am, but keep the chassis and get myself a Supra.

Is that right.......

The A/F T56 was designed to swap into F-bodies to replace the T5. The A/F is the T56 that the aftermarket guys get ahold of and re-drill and re-sell. The shifter position is the same as a T5. It comes from Tremec drilled for a T5 18 degree bell install. It is then re-drilled for a straight-up install as well. This is all accomplished by using an adaptor plate, which makes the A/F T56 heavier and longer. They also change the input shaft and bearing retainer. Only an A/F shifter will work with this trans

200R4 overall length is 28.26 inches. The A/F T56 is 33.29 inches (+5.03). The LT1 T56 is 31.30 inches. The LS1 T56 is 31.90 inches.


A bellhousing for a 4 speed or T5 is 6.3 inches thick. For an LT1: 4.9 inches. And for an LS1: 5.5 inches

AND from ONe of the sponsers here.............


Click for Full Size Tremec Aftermarket T-56 Transmission
Item: Tremec T56
$2,295.00

Tremec T-56 Six Speed Transmission



Tremec's GM aftermarket replacement T-56 six speed is designed to replace the T-5 five speed in the 1982-1992 F-Body. This transmission can be used for many other applications with small modifications. Gear-ratio spread: 2.97:1, 1.94:1, 1.35:1, 1.00:1, 0.84:1, 0.62:1 forward, and 3.28:1 reverse

Tremec's GM aftermarket replacement T-56 assembly uses a 26-spline input shaft that mates with the existing GM clutch assembly. Also includes a special adapter plate that bolts the transmission to the stock T-5 bellhousing. The kit moves the T-56 transmission mount 1.9 inches rearward to mate with a Spohn Performance crossmember. This in turn requires correspondingly shortening the rear differential torque arm by 1.9 inches. An easy solution to this is to use the complete Spohn Performance transmission crossmember/adjustable torque arm kit! Retain the stock 27-spline slip-yoke, but shorten the driveshaft by 2 inches, or use a ready to install Spohn Performance Extreme-Duty Driveshaft!

Shifter location is the same as the T-5, so no floor pan or console modifications are necessary. The transmission is set up for a speedometer cable or a VSS connection, so no speedo calibration box is necessary!

Bellhousing And Clutch Linkage

The 4thGen F-Body car uses a "pull-type" clutch assembly, and the T-56's front face is different from traditional GM manual transmissions. Tremec's adapter plate provides the solution - it bolts the new T-56 to the earlier T-5 bellhousing and permits retention of the existing T-5 V8 clutch system without alteration.

Stock T-5 V8 bellhousings rotate the T-5 trans 18 degrees counterclockwise from "straight up". Tremec's adapter plate returns the T-56's orientation to "straight up". The 1984-1992 F-Body uses a bell housing set up for hydraulic linkage, GM PN 14075722 or Lakewood scattershield PN 15020 (available from Spohn Performance).

If you have any questions about the Tremec T-56 swap, email our tech department.


Shipping Notice: Ships via Truck Freight. MUST ship to a BUSINESS address, residential delivery is not available.
Quantity: 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25


I take it you had to cut out your tunnel to make it fit eh?

im lazy and not going to type the whole speal... so heres how it is.


the AF T56 was suppost to be a bolt in. it IS for some older car apps.


for our 3rdgens, its not.

go read the install sticky.. on one of the pages, theres a short talk of it.


go read about guys who have done it

ask Zghost about it. go so somemore research about it.

they all have serious drivetrain vibrations that can only be solved by raising the trans...


for OUR cars, the LT1 style one is a bolt in... the AF style requires serious floorpan mods. trust me... or do the research.. actual research, not the ad for selling the trans, or a magazine artical...
ask people who have done it.

Yea I searched no z ghost and no mention of anyone cutting a tunnel besides your thread. I`m not saying you wrong, I just didn`t need to.... I offered a choice to klumb for a trans and if You do some searching you`ll find sevreal members here using A/F t56`ers and have not once mentioned cutting up there floor boards and just for the record I have done it and there is no need to cut the floor. The a/f is a LT1 t56 with an adapter plate.

do a search for McLeod T56


i have this one, it bolts to the T5 bellhousing, YOU DO NOT NEED TO CUT THE FLOOR PAN, its a bolt in, straight and forward, you do need the new tranny cross member, and to shorten the drive shaft and tq arm by 1"

they also use the better push type clutch instead of the crappy pull type LT1 clutch.

the LS1's went back to the push type as a result of better design.

price is 2200 from McLeod, comes with shifter, sensors,(no dakota digital box needed) and better gearing than LT1 trans.

yea i ain't rich..i'm not gonna spend 2200 bucks for the tranny, then a bunch more for a shortened driveshaft and all of that BS...can't you just take the LT1 T56 and it swaps right in there as far as drivetrain goes am I right??? I don't care about cutting up the floorpan, that is lightwork, I just wanna get it in there, and working...I was just gonna go with the T5 tranny, but it can't hold any power whatso ever...so I decided to go the 6 speed route...but the LT1 t56 swaps right in there right??? just borrow all the parts from a Lt1 car, and then just make my tranny tunnel bigger...am i right?

the only modding of the trans tunnel is for the shifter to stick thru... its a inch or two back compared to the T5.

MrDude causing trouble AGAIN. Sheesh

and using that LT1 trans, if you dont have an electric speedo, you need the dakota digital box.


if i were you, i would save up and do it right, rather than mess with the damn peddels, mounting them, cutting the tunnel, getting the clutch to work right, then the speedo issue.. blah blah blah..

pain in the *** if you are not equipted mechanically and have time, and knowledge of problem solving. my swap took 2 hours, if that.


but if you want the LT1 go for it, check ebay or local junkyard.

After having done considerable research before I undertook my own T56 swap I chose the LT1 T56 from a wrecked '95 Z28. I purchased the trans, bellhousing, and TA mount used for $1,200. I used an aftermarket clutch and flywheel (I have a 2-piece RMS anyway, so I couldn't have used the stock flywheel, plus I wanted a better assembly for what I've got planned for the car down the road). I grabbed a set of 3rd gen pedals from the junkyard with all the switches for $50. I bought the Spohn x-member for $150 I believe. I bought the hydraulics new from GM, my cost $87. I bought a 5-speed shifter plate from Year One (brand new GM), can't remember the cost. I used a Pro 5.0 shifter(best in the business IMO), for $199. I grabbed a shift **** at a swap meet for $15 (black w/ 6 speed pattern). I've got about another $200 tied up in miscellaneous parts (wiring, nuts nad bolts, ect.). I tracked my costs very closely with an excel spreadsheet, so I have a very good handle on what it all cost.

I converted my car from an automatic, but was still able to re-use my stock driveshaft, trans mount, torque arm, and console.

After exhaustive research I found the LT1 T56 to be the best option in terms of price and ease of installation.

BTW, I have heard from several people on this site and others that did have to cut their floorpan for the AM T56 installation to work right with their pinion angle. These cars were also lowered, which is most likely the cuase of these issues, since in the process the pinion angle was most likely changed. The lesson here is that not all bolts on are, and not all bolt ons work together without modifying something.

There's nothing wrong with the pull type clutch design. LT1 clutches are WAY more reliable than LS1 clutches because of the hydraulic setup, not the clutch itself. But again, the only thing that is crappy about LT1 clutches is that they cost more than T5 clutches.