klumb15

iTrader: (1)

hello everyone, here's what I got, I got a 350 vette TPI engine, about 255 HP, but this summer i'm gonna throw a procharger on it, and next winter i'm gonna get the heads redone, or perhaps just all new ones.....so i figure i'll be in around the 400 HP or more range after i get the head work done....but the problem is, I have a 700R4 with a shiftkit in it, and I was wondering what else can i do to make this tranny just a little bit stronger to have it last thrugh the summer???then next winter i'll do something major, get it rebuild and whatnot....but I've heard of people putting a billet or vette servo on the trans, and there is some other valve I heard of people doing like a .500 valve or something or another...I just want some minor upgrades that will extend the life of it a bit, so it will handle the intial power of the procharger....so if you guys could help me out on what I can do, and where I can get these parts from, that would be great....thanks....

Floor guy

Pro-Built has what you need.

klumb15

iTrader: (1)

sweet...what do I need tho??? i'm not lookin for a complete rebuild kit, I'm lookin for a few mildly priced components that will help my trans last throughout the summer....

Apeiron

What kit do you have in it now?

Pro Built Automatics

Go to http://www.700r4l60e.com/store/custo...&cat=28&page=1 this should be what you need.

klumb15

iTrader: (1)

I don't know which shift kit is in it now, I'm not really even certain there is a shiftkit...because the previous owner is dead, but when I first got the car, the son of the owner said his dad had something done to the tranny to make it shift more positive, but he didn't know what....and when I first go the car, I remember cleaning it out, and throwing away a box or wrapper that I believe was a Transgo, but I'm not certain...should I just get that kit in the link, then I'll know what exactly I got...or will a mechanic know what is all done to it when he looks at it?

klumb15

iTrader: (1)

one more question....how much in labor does it usually cost for a mechanic to rebuild a transmission if I already have the complete rebuild kit? I was looking through that website and its only 550 bucks or so for a kit that holds up 550 HP...thats a deal...maybe I'll just sell my trans, and take my buddy's blown 700r4 off him..cuz that street/strip kit comes with all new gears and what not right??

Pro Built Automatics

Read the list carefully, there are no new gears. The only time you need gears is when they worn out, burnt, or broken.

TKOPerformance

I'd be wary trying to use a "blown" transmission as a core. If any hard parts are damaged like a gearset or drum it'll be cheaper to just buy a good core than to just try and buy the bad part from GM. I found that out the hard way when I rebuilt mine. The low/reverse planetary set had sheared off its snout, and the roller clutch had exploded. The parts from GM would have been way more than the $50 I paid for a good used core.

You're better off getting a good used trans that hasn't been sitting for very long. The longer they sit the more likely they are to form corrosion in the accumulator piston bores, servo bore, and other places that can't be repaired if they are damaged.

I've never seen different gearsets for the 700R4 like are available for TH400s and 727 Torqueflites. I could be wrong though. Dana's the guy to ask. It would be great if someone would make different gearsets. If you could get better gear spacing 1st to 2nd on a 700R4 it'd be a lot better at the strip.

klumb15

iTrader: (1)

so your saying if i do this, just use my workin trans for the rebuild....does anybody know a ballpark figure that a mechanic of some sort would charge to install this kit??

TKOPerformance

Based on the amount of work involved I'd charge about $600, which would include the machining of the pump, which you will most certainly have to do to get the proper clearance. I think any mechanic in their right mind would come close to that number. There is a good amount of trial assembly and hand filing things to attain the proper clearance, like the basket for the 3/4 clutches. This quickly adds up to hours of time invested. Don't get me wrong, it's well worth it.

klumb15

iTrader: (1)

so were looking at about 1100 for everything then, plus a different stall converter??

chris718

at your power level the vette servo piston,a.500 boost valve ,.296 intermediate boost valve,white code 1/2 and 3/4 accumulator springs ,new seperator plate,and a specially calibrated line bias and accumulator spring will work wonders for the transmission providing the friction elements can still control the held and driven members of the compound planetary gearset.our line bias spring will alow proper line rise in relation to throttle angle.in theory a tv limit valve that supplies 90 psi to the plunger will produce 90 psi line pressure at idle when the plunger is at rest (ie closed throttle).we will look at the throttles 90 degrees of travel from open to shut in the following manner.if base line with 0 tv is 90 psi at idle ,max line should be 230 psi at full tv or wot.remember the tv feed is 90psi and the plunger regulates this psi from 0 at closed tv to 90 at full tv .this oil is relabeled modulated tv oil that will pass thru the line bias valve train and stroke the tv boost valve to control line psi based on throttle angle and plunger position.now if we say 1/4 throttle is 25%of throttle angle than we should understand that line pressure should increase at a steady rate of 35 psi for each 25%or 22.5 degrees of throttle opening.an engines ability to gain rpm and its bore and stroke will influence torque output produced and when and where in the rpm it is present.factory calibrations produce a quick builup in line pressure before 3000 rpms and then reduce its rate of climb up to the maximum operating rpm of the engine.this causes friction element slippage when used in conjunction with high output engines.accumulaor backpressure used in conjunction with line pressure that controls clutch apply pressure and clutch pack accumulation time in circuits that control an upshift torque load must also be carefully balanced or frictions will apply with too much slip time and introduce heat into the held and driven members of the cluch pack causing poor surface compatibility and introducing degradations of shift quality.these parts will produce the desired results and are available in kit form from us.

klumb15

iTrader: (1)

wow, thats a lot of technical jargon...i tryed to make sense outta it, but where can I get a kit like what your talking about, and how much HP will I be able to handle with it...because my plan is this winter to get the drivetrain set, so I won't have to worry about it at all in the near future....my motor is gonna probably have a reworked intake perhaps a swapped intake, such as modded LT1 or HSR....so i figure i'll be looking at about 300 to the ground with that, then this summer, if all goes good, i'm gonna throw a procharger on there...i figure i'll be over the 400 to the ground mark, and I wanna make sure the rest of the drivetrain can handle it without babying it...should I go with what you said, or should I go with a complete rebuild kit that handles 550 HP???

chris718

the hydraulic calibration of this kit will work with all power levels.however there are mechanical upgrades that you will need at 550lbdft if you go inside the transmission.we have a complete kit that also includes the mechanical upgrades as well as a master overhaul .if your interested email me for further information.