I have a Moser 9 (had to rebuild it). Im going to change the Auburn center for a spool, and also upgrade axles. I will use the
Auburn & axles? for a 9 in my s-10. I need to buy a center section,
axles for the GTA and get a housing for the s-10. Which supplier have people had good dealings with (ones that do what they say
when they say and deliver a good working product). Thanks

 

Currie Enterprises has a great reputation. Mark Williams has a great rep too, but Currie is typically cheaper on most everything.

Figure out exactly what you want to use and then price shop for the best deal. Make sure you get a warranty if you buy a complete 3rd member or axel assembly.

 

Currie gets my vote, great build quality. Here's a pic of mine when it came shipped UPS earlier than expected.

 

EvilCartman, How much did the housing and axles cost? Is that all you bought from them?

 

I bought a completely assembled Strange center section from S&W Race cars last year. Don't know if they are any cheaper than any one else as most are pretty much within pennies of each other, but I do like dealing with them.

Mark Williams has excellent pieces, but also come with a hefty price tag. I have not had any personal experience with Currie, but I'm positive that there were some folks at another Camaro web site ( Sorry can't remember which ) somewhere had a group purchase with them & it turned pretty sour.

Your profile does not list where you live, but sometimes shipping weight & shipping across country will affect prices greatly on items that weigh as much as a thirdmember does.

Just my 2 Cents

Sincerely, Bruce

 

Humm... looks like my reply was lost. I paid 1250 I think for the housing, 31 spline axles, torque arm bracket and drum brakes. Basicly their stage 1 rear minus the 3rd member, which I got localy. It was only 100 bucks more for the disc brake setup which I should have got but didn't They shipped everything by UPS in 3 boxes Only downside is they build them per order, nothing in stock to ship out right away.

 

Thanks, I was just wondering. I understand with the site being down, caused delays also.

I wanted to know how much you can save doing it the way you had. Two years ago I bought the complete assembled unit from Currie. I ordered the Nodular iron upgraded case, with the large bearing, and heavy duty pinion support. I also had a Detroit Locker installed in mine. It came assembled, and powdercoated black. A friend told me to get the powder coat, because he didnt, and was painting his rear all the time. All I had to do was send them my disc brake brackets, and ARP metric wheelstuds, and they did the rest.

For $2300.00, and it bolted right in without any hassles at all. It was the best money I ever spent. Somtimes its funny trying to justify that kind of money spent on somthing that does not give a performance gain, just durability. Heck you have to get on your hands and knees just to look at it!....

 

DTS makes really good stuff, but that deal from Currie REALLY interests me. Moser makes great stuff, but doesn't offer any kind of brake deals.

 

.

 

Which 9' Supplier?


whats a 9 foot ? or do you mean 9" = 9 inch

 

I saw that too. I was waiting for someone to notice! LOL

 

I bought the 3rd member for 300 bucks then new bearings, shim, pinion nut and clutch pack probably for a total of 150 more, maybe a bit less...

 

I dunno thats debatable... I mean I would not/did not want to do a 9" and try to use stock brakes on it anyway... I just told Moser what Brake setup I wated to use and they made the brackets for me...

I eneded up using a 12" 4piston Disk/Drum Wilwood setup The kind where the e-brake is a drum and foot brake is 12"disk...

It all bolted on perfectly...

Most of the rear end companies give you some POFS drum brake setup thats about useless...

 

Yeah, when I do the swap I'm going to switch to rear discs too. Wouldn't do it any other way. Actually, I'll probably just upgrade the entire braking system.

However, if all you do is drag race them there's no real point to swapping brakes. The aluminum drums are lighter than the discs, and you can back off the self adjusters for zero drag at the track. Just a thought from another perspective.

 

Not exactly... My thought was two fold... My car will hit the traps close to 150... I have a 3.5" wide front... so no matter how big I go with front brakes they wont be able to do a lot of stopping...

I have 12" wide rear slicks...that WILL do a lot of stopping...

The second tier was that by buying a disk/drum setup I have a seperate Manual Handbrake as a failsafe...something happens with my hydraulic system I can still pull my handbrake and stop...

Tier 3 is my parachute ... I have NO INTENTION of eating any sand at the end of the track... LOL

 

I think you're in an entirely different league than most of the guys here. You're more in the vein of a friend of mine with a '92 Firebird, or at least it looks sort of like a '92 Firebird. It's a door car with a tube chassis that runs 8.90s. This season hopefully he'll see high 7s when he switches to a 632 BBC. He's never pulled the chute though with the current setup. He always said all he did was let off the gas and the car basically slowed down on it's own with minimal braking.

You're right though, you need to adjust the braking according to contact patch, and on a car with slicks and skinnies the slicks have a much bigger footprint than the skinnies. Therefore, the back tires do most of the braking. Even big tires street car guys are starting to make use of this. I've seen a few Pro-Touring and Pro-Street cars lately that had bigger rear brakes than front brakes. They did it on purpose to balance the braking, and say they couldn't achieve proper bias any other way.

The drum parking brake/disc braqke setup is vastly superior to the disc that does both. I've yet to find an all disc setup that works well for any length of time. The drum inside the back of the rotor setup, or Banskia style, is the best of both worlds. My WRX has rear brakes like that, and I love them. My Blazer has a rear disc setup that uses Cadillac calipers with a built in e-brake mechanism. Not nearly as effective. They make me long for driveshaft brakes...

 

I just enjoy the looks and questions at car shows and stuff when they see my entier rear rim filled with Rotor and then my front rotors have about 4" of daylight showing.... every other car has the opposite...LOL....