First, I did search first and I think I found the answer to most of the the following questions but I want to be sure.

I had a leak at the pinion that I thought was the seal but turned out to be a leak at the yoke splines (search say this is common, use teflon sealer on splines when reassembling).

I read about the special tool to hold the yoke but thought "heck, what about the e-brake?". I put on the e-brake and attacked the pinon nut only to find that it was basically almost hand tight.

I checked the preload before removing the nut and it was almost non-exsistant ( search says have to remove the ring gear to set preload, manual says no preload is a possible sign of bad bearing).

I think what I read in archives is that this nut should be very difficult to turn. I read 140 ft-lbs in one post. Is this correct?

I suspect Mr. Badwrench reused the old pinion nut and this is a no-no, correct?

Since I don't want to remove the carrier from the rear end to set the pre-load what are my options? I marked the relationship of the pinion to nut and housing but apparantly that references an incorrect pre-load.

Thanks

Frank

 

it'd be foolish not to set preload or remove the carrier to do so, it isn't hard ot a lot of work. you do need to use a new nut each time you remove the nut. usually the nut will take a bit of effort to break free then be fairly easy to remove.

 

Is this because the drag of the carrier bearings and ring and pinion mesh effect the total preload measurement?

Couldn't you measure this first and subtract it out?

Does carrier R&R require removing the rear end from the car?

Frank

 

Yes the pinion nut takes a high amt. of torque when installing.

No, you don't need to remove the diff. from the car to remove the carrier.