EvilCartman

iTrader: (1)

Mine's a Currie and Confuzed1 is a Moser

k's89rs

oh my bad i got confused! sorry. well how much did the moser cost confuzed1?

Confuzed1

iTrader: (4)

If you really want to know the exact cost, I'd prefer you PM me, but I can tell you that the top three (Currie, Moser, Strange) were all within a couple hundred of one another.

If I lived in Cali like Evil does, I would've gotten the Currie. They were about 100 cheaper than the other two - BUT.... since I live in WI., they had a way higher shipping cost (280 bucks)....

Moser and Strange were a lot closer to me, and the only deciding factor for me amoungest the final two was that Moser has a axle replacement warranty, and Strange didn't. Not that I think either would break, but it came that close. Shipping was a wash at 85-90 bucks.

Besides that, I think the quality is pretty much the same on all three, and all offer options for simular prices....they know who the competition is....

But that's good for smucks like us!! -Keeps prices down.

EDIT: BTW Evilcartman, I just painted mine and I'm getting ready to rip out the old 10 bolt to make way....if you have any pointers you could share, I'd appreciate it. (since you've been there, done that!)

EvilCartman

iTrader: (1)

Tips... hummmmmm take your time hehe. Mine went together pretty smooth except the torque arm bracket. It was hitting the stocker 3rd member which probably doesn't happen with a supplied 3rd member. Here's what my car looked like minus the 10 bolt

Confuzed1

iTrader: (4)

Hey!, that's what mine will hopefully look like by the end of today!

What's even weirder is I also have blue carpet like you under my car at the moment...

For the initial install, I plan to reuse the stocker torque arm

I'll get a Spohn arm later. My instructions still say I may have to grind down one of the ribs on the thirdmember case for the arm to fit properly. Guess I'll find out! - Thanks!

Confuzed1

iTrader: (4)

Well, looks alot like your pic now!! Had it done in about 4 hours, but I took my time....

EvilCartman

iTrader: (1)

Woohoo do they say anything about the u-joint? Since I used a stock Ford part I had to get a conversion u-joint. Just took some measurements and hit up google to find out what was what then went to the parts store.

Confuzed1

iTrader: (4)

Yeah, I have to get a conversion U-joint too. I called Moser, and they said it could be one of two kinds and they gave me the part #'s for both. They claim they're easy to find....guess I'll find that out too! I guess NAPA has them??

Just got my Spohn sway bar brackets and end links yesterday! Pretty pricey for what little I got, but at least I know they'll fit.

I'll post up pics whenever I make progress on this.....work takes up most of my time right now.

EDIT: I do have a slight concern with my speedo.....I had 3.73's in the 10 bolt, and of course, only 3.70's are available with a 9".

I wouldn't think it would throw my speedo off much, would it??

EvilCartman

iTrader: (1)

I got my conversion u-joint at NAPA no problem. As for the speedo, I wouldn't worry about it Mine shows about 10 mph off or more hehe but went from 3.42 gears to 4.56. The needle really gets burried when going 120 mph

TTOP350

iTrader: (8)

Well I'll put up a link to mine.. its a Moser with a D/T locker .. it now has a aluminum center chunk and pinion support with bilstein (sp) shocks and my control arms are lowered now.. the oil on the bottom is from my trans exploding..



http://www.team3rdgen.com/modules.ph...view_photo.php

Confuzed1

iTrader: (4)

I've seen your car before Tony. It's obvious you've put alot of time, effort, and $$ into it and it shows!! Nice ride!

The posi rear I have is made by Detroit Locker, called a True Trac, but I know it's not a "locker" style. The locker is still an option though.

Just got my thirdmember installed, my Lakewood LCA's attached to the car, and I'm ready to huff this heavy thing in place tomorrow!

Confuzed1

iTrader: (4)

And the engine's ready to drop in after that...

TTOP350

iTrader: (8)

Thanx for the compliment

I had the iron center chunk in mine and went with the aluminum cause I'l always pulling it apart for some reason
I also found out with the aluminum case that its not as jumpy in the rear when I hit a bump.... less weight is nice

Confuzed1

iTrader: (4)

Well, it's in!

Bolted in like it was supposed to be there.

It was kind of a challenge doing it solo, but not too bad. Now it's a matter of installing the axles, brakes, brake lines - details.....

Confuzed1

iTrader: (4)

I figured out the E-brake cables, and have the brakes hardlined, and I got to looking closer at it and it looks like i have a problem, or maybe it isn't. But the driveshaft is offset towards the pass. side in the rear. I don't even have the driveshaft in and I can tell it won't be aligned..

In other words, the pinion yoke is offset to the pass side on this rear, so the driveshaft is at a weird angle. I'm about ready to give Moser a call and ask. The U-joint in the rear is almost touching my exhaust pipe. Don't look right at all.

Is that normal??

EvilCartman

iTrader: (1)

Think I actually gained clearance from the exhaust with my 9 inch in lol... I'll have a look to see if the driveshaft is straight down the car.

Edit: from what I can see, it's a fairly straight shot.

92'Sleeper

Mine was offset to the passenger side a little to. I called DTS about this and was told it was the way of the 9". I've seen several threads on here about the offset issue. After I put the 9" in my car, I noticed some vibrations around 60 - 80 MPH. I again called DTS, they told me the vibrations was the culprit from the Pinion being offset. They also told me the only way to get rid of the offset, is to totally fab-up (from scratch) a 9" specifically designed for our cars.

Confuzed1

iTrader: (4)

Thanks EvilCartman - Then I definately have a problem. I was waiting for someone to look at thiers before I call Moser.

That's exactly what I'm afraid will happen with mine. If I wanted vibrations, I would've kept the 10 bolt in and not spent a dime. What's worse is the fact that Moser advertises this rear as a "Bolt-in" made for 82-92 F-bodys.

I'll start another thread and post a pic of the offset if I can. I know I don't like it at all. Before I even run one mile on this thing, I need some assurance that this is the way it supposed to be and it won't cause any problems....including vibration.

Duck

Since I've been having problems getting decent local servicing of both the 10-bolt and 9-bolt rears in our Camaros in Hawaii, I've been searching for a better rear-end setup. The Ford 9-inch appeared to offer the most options and strength, and I was ready to order one from Spohn but after reading this thread I chickened-out and decided to do some more research -- is there or is there not a vibration problem caused by "the offset pinion/driveshaft geometry" of the F-9-inch."

Here's what I found out and am posting it to update the thread started by Confused1 to address any concerns about driveline vibration caused by the 9-inch rear. Based on the results, it looks like my next big purchase will be a F-9-inch.

----------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Duck wrote on 06-02-2005 10:51 PM:
Hi, I was wondering if there's any update regarding your recent installation of a 9-inch in regards to [vibration caused by] pinion offset...
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Confuzed1
Senior Member

Registered: Oct 1999
Posts: 1594
Re: 9-inch offset
Everything ended up being fine when I got it back together. But even Moser says there is a 15/16ths offset from stock, but it doesn't appear to have any effect so far.

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

On 1 Jun 2005 at 10:21, Lucky Ducky wrote:

> Spohn Performance, Inc.
> http://www.spohn.net
> Sales - mailto:sales@spohn.net
> Tech - mailto:tech@spohn.net
> Phone: 717-273-6004
>
> Sir/Ma'am,
>
> I'm ready to buy the Moser-Ford 9-inch rear for my 92
> Z28, but am concerned about driveline vibration at
> highway speeds caused by the offset pinion angle of
> the 9-inch rear installed in 82-92 F-bodies.
>
> Drag race cars wouldn't notice vibration at say, 60-90
> mph, as they zoom through that speed range topping out
> at around 130 mph, but road cars cruising at a steady
> 75 mph certainly will.
>
> Is there actually a built-in vibration problem caused
> by the Ford offset pinion in F-bodies?
>
> I'd hate to spend $2,500 on a rear just to have a very
> annoying problem...
>
> Would I be better off with something like the 12-bolt?
>
> Thanks for your help,
>
Lucky Ducky

-----------------------------------------------------------

From: "Spohn Performance" <tech@spohn.net>
To: "Lucky Ducky" <luckyducky_96701@yahoo.com>
Date: Wed, 01 Jun 2005 13:37:01 -0400
Subject: Re: Moser-Ford 9-inch rear for 82-92 F-body -- vibration?


The pinion on a 9" is offset, but it is not offset in the car. One axle
tube is longer than the other one so the pinion is centered.

I run one in my car and have zero vibration, the 9" is a great rear!


Spohn Performance, Inc.
http://www.spohn.net
Sales: mailto:sales@spohn.net
Tech: mailto:tech@spohn.net
Phone: 717-273-6004
----------------------------------------------------------

84406

One thing to remember is that the stock rear is offset just over 1\2". On the 9" I built for mine I used 5|8" and I sure can't see that the moser 15\16" would be a problem. If there is a viberation problem it is more likely to be the fact that the ford pinion sits lower in relation to axle center line which increases the angles required. You can play around with the relationship of the tailshaft and pinion and probably improve things.

Kenwood

iTrader: (1)

sounds like something is wrong with the housing...My driveshaft sits STRAIGHT... Ive been well above 100MPH in mine...No vibration..... Mine was a moser fabricated housing...as in sometimes they convert stock 9" housings...mine was a fabbed from scratch housing...I dont know if that makes a difference or not.. It sould not since they would have to add the correct axle tubes..

Confuzed1

iTrader: (4)

I already said that above!
Since my drive shaft was in the shop at the time, I didn't bother installing the torque arm either.....just looked way off w/o those installed. Optical illusion I guess. But After everything went together, it looked fine, and no problems so far. Just trying to get used to this posi...not used to the rear tire squeeling a little on tight turns...

booboosean

I've read this whole thread and haven't found (or didn't notice) anything on the brake lines. I just installed a Moser 9 inch set-up with their drum brakes in my 89 and found that the drums take an SAE threaded fitting and my brake lines have metric fittings. Than means I am going to have to have custom lines made with a standard fitting on one end and a metric fitting on the other.

Does anyone have any other suggestions?

84406

one way to do it is to use all sae on the brake hard lines on therear end, get a flex line from an 82 camaro (sae) and either a metric/sae coupler from the rear hard line or reflare the hardline to take sae where it goes into the flex line, changing from bubble flare to double sae. That is what I have on my homemade 9" with ford explorer rear brakes.

Confuzed1

iTrader: (4)

Yep. I'm guessing that booboosean has the 11" Explorer drums like I got. Guess I got lucky on that since mine's a '83, and the stock fittings were apparentley (sp) SAE in '83 too I guess, because it screwed right into the Ford wheel cylinder on my car. I think '85 up were pretty much all Metric....could be wrong...

It was just a matter of "tweaking" the lines a bit to conform to the bigger housing better. But I should really just bend new lines for a cleaner look.

booboosean

That's pretty much what I thought. I finally called Moser on the drum brake set-up and they say for replacement parts just ask for parts for a 1974 Torino. They didn't give much advise.

I appreciate the input from you. Looks like I'm going to do some flaring.

Confuzed1

iTrader: (4)

I hear ya....

I asked them about hooking up E-brake cables, and the only answer I got was "just get one of the universal kits". Of course they couldn't tell me a brand or part number for this "kit"....

booboosean

Yeah, when they say bolt-in they leave out "with adaptors" lol. I still have not hooked up my E-brake cables. I'm sure I'll need some kind of adaptor to do that too---can't wait!! Good thing I like to work on my car.

Confuzed1

iTrader: (4)

Well I did manage to hook my e-brakes up, and they work great. I bought a universal kit from Lokar for like 80 bucks....

I only used half the parts from the kit though...but it works!

booboosean

Now that's stuff I can use. Did it hook up to your stock pull handle? I'll start doing a Google search on that. Thanks.

84406

I haveexplorer disks but used the locar kit. The only difference should be where it comes out of the backing plate. Then I shortened the outer sheath to nicely fit in the original 3rd gen brackets. I left all the stock cable and fittings from the park brake to the adjuster. Where the original cables came to the adjuster and had crimped on stops, I cut the locar fitting that had the allen screws in it. I cut that in half. Then I ran the inner cables up to the adjuster ( going through all the stock guides) and used the two pieces with the allen screws as stops. I adjust my park brake the stock way. Unless you looked up over the driveshaft and saw that I used the allen/blocks you would think it was a completely stock unit. Hope that might help.

Confuzed1

iTrader: (4)

Well whataya know!!!.....that sounds just like the way I hooked mine up. I retained the stock cable from the handle, and used the factory guides to route it like it should, cut each cable to fit going to each backing plate etc etc...like 84406 did above.

'Cept I also used small cable U clamps along with the allen screw clamp. I thought the allen head setup might slip.

Once you get the universal kit and scratch your noggin for a few minutes, it becomes clearer....that's what I did!

booboosean

Thanks guys, that really helps. Glad this rear was a bolt-in or I would be having real problems, lol.

tg.org has been a great source of info---met some good people too.

Boo.

Blownpickl

I parted a Z28 that had a 9" I have all of the parts. Call me (951)704-2534 or E- Mail me

vernw

iTrader: (2)

OK, hi-jacking this thread a little bit....

Has anyone who is using the Explorer rear discs ran into a problem where the parking brake is pretty worthless? I've adjusted mine to the point the right rear cable pulled thru the splitter bracket and it still won't hold the car on the very slightest incline.....

84406

My explorer disk parking brake works well. It will hold the car when on the incline off the trailer and will hold against the converter as long as you don't get silly about it. All I did with mine is make sure the shoes were adjusted and then adjust the cable at the cable adjuster and it was good so would think something is not right with yours.

vernw

iTrader: (2)

How do you adjust the shoes? That's probably where my problem is (or bad pads, haven't checked that).

84406

You adjust the shoes through the backing plate just as you would drum brakes. That is actually what they are is small shoes inside the hat. The pads have nothing to do with the parking brake. Make sure the park brake lever adjuster in the tunnel is loosened before you do the shoes for the first time. I must add that mine are 1990 design and there might be some that are different but would imagine they are all the same.

vernw

iTrader: (2)

I didn't realize that - Thanks for the info!!!!