k's89rs

i am about to buy a motor that will eat my 7.625 alive. my dad had a 9-inch on his old vette and loved it! i want one too! right now im shopping. i found a guy via ebay that will do one COMPLETE ready to throw and go for 2,035 + shipping. i just emailed currie enterprise to see what they want. all im looking for is good internals, good axles, and a good posi with around 3.73 gears. where can i find one for a good deal?
thanks
kent

AlkyIROC

A complete 9" bolt in diff for a third gen is in the $2000 - $2500 range depending what choices you want.

Don't even bother with 28 spline axles. Minimum is 31 spline. That's all I use. 35 spline and up is overkill for most cars.

Posi choice is up to you. There's only really a handfull to pick from unless you're going to something special like a detroit locker or something like that. Race only, get a spool.

You can cheap out on a few things. To cut the original cost down you can buy the housing with axles as a package deal from Currie, Strange, etc for about $1000. As long as you order the axles in the spline count you intend to use. Then look around locally for a center section with the posi and gear ratio you want to use. It could be a lot cheaper than buying it from somewhere else.

After that it's just a matter of deciding what brakes to install on the housing. I use Ford drum brakes myself. My rims have dual bolt pattern so I didn't have a problem having to redrill wheel stud holes or anything like that.

k's89rs

ok so two grand is looking to be the lowest ill pay? i found a guy up in iowa that does them. he charges 2,035 and this is what you get. $945 - Housing, Axles, Axle Bearings, Studs, & Retainers w/ 3rd Arm Bracket
$1090 - Center Section (Strange Nodular Iron S Case, Alum. Daytona Support, 1350 Billet Steel Yoke, Motive Performance Gears, 31 Spline Posi, Timken Bearings ALL NEW & ASSEMBLED) and that is ready to go in. what does everyone think?

itsjustabird

iTrader: (1)

thats not bad but dont forget brakes im really considering getting a housing from moser and piecing the rest together of course i only intend on going straight so i want a spool

IHI

iTrader: (1)

I got my 9" from Doug, (Quick Performance in Gilbert IA.) All said and done for the Moser housing, Strange center section, Richmond 4.11 gears, Moser 31 spline axles, Full spool, 1350 yoke, and the complete GM disc brake set-up for $2345, then another $115 for the braided brake lines and fittings to hook them up, if you rbuy his brake kit weather Wilwood or the GM stuff, buy the brake line kit from him, $75 and your done.

Like mentioned, you "details" are what's gonna cost ya. Also he told me they could not mount the brakes onto the rear end for insurance liability reasons, but I've talked to a few other that were able to get them mounted there. All I know, when I ordered my rear end I empasises I wanted a complete bolt in rear end that I just had to add fluid and bleed brakes. I got down there and picked up, an empty rear end housing, axles in a box, brake set-up in a box, 3rd member torque arm mount in a box, complete center section in it's own box that we found out had the wrong spool in it, then when I got home I found out it had a stock yoke on it. So I was very unhappy overall when I was promised one thing and got another, 4hrs round trip drive time, plus the time I had removing the yoke, and shipping it back and I got no discount for all the BS. Everything works good yes, but getting it there....PITA!!!

brutalform

The Currie charges break down as follows:

Yellow Freight...................................................$230.00
Palletizing and boxing.......................................$27.50
assemble (install third member and axles)........$29.95
upgrade stock case to 9+ case..........................$120.00
gears, 31 spline Detroit Locker &
9+ big bearing support.......................................$999.95
Labor to modify disc brake brackets for
use on 9 in...........................................................$64.95
Currie performance axles.....................................$389.95
housing w/ torque arm bracket............................$549.95
-------------
$2412.25
Then I added the powdercoating for an additional $139.95. Now it can be more or less, depending what you order.

These prices were in 2002.

IROCaholic

What exactly are the specs on this motor. Because from what I saw on the other thread that engine doesnt look like it will eat our stock rears. Ive seen guys go low 12's without haveing any problems at all. There may be no reason to throw $2000+ into a new rear. I am not trying to bash your new motor or anything just trying to help you save some cash.

IROCaholic

k's89rs

i just have a feeling that this rearend in my car now will not hold up to much more. my car, before i got a hold of it, was not taken car of very well. i figure that since im getting a pretty good motor, and there is always room for improvement, im just going to go ahead and get a ford 9 to keep everything under control. the guy that im buying it from said that im going to have to take it easy until i get one. ive always heard that the 7.625's do not like to handle more than 400 horse. i guess that is where the ls1 guys run into problems too.

k's89rs

also im being told something i have never heard about the ford 9's. "The pinion angle and the pinion location are two different things. The pinion angle is going to be a stock angle. The pinion will also be built to a stock location. We have created a torque arm bracket that welds to our Ford 9 inch housings that keeps the torque arm in the same spot while keeping the pinion in the same location as well. The pinion in your car should already be moved over one inch from the factory" this was for a tech from currie. the reason he wrote me this is because the guy i talked to from DTS said that he didnt suggest the ford 9 for my car because the place where the pinion is located interferes with the torque arm? comments?

brutalform

No problems at all. My 9" fits great. Are you going to be drag racing this car? If you are going to race twice a month, I would definatley go with the 9". If you are going to race a few times a year, then stick with what you got until it breaks. Once you "hook" the car, thats when the parts breakage goes way up! If you are looking for an upgrade to blow some dough on, (like we all somtimes do), go for it!

k's89rs

oh yes i plan on racing it. with slicks too. i know for sure ill break my current rear.

brutalform

I hear ya ....Thats why I bought my 9"! I got tired of replacing the ring and pinions in the stock rear. All B/S aside though. Im very happy with my Currie 9". I dont ever worry about my rear anymore. My problems are a thing of the past. Look back a few replies on this thread, and thats what I paid a couple of years ago. Glad I did. The guys at Currie told me that this rear package, should have no problem for 600 plus H.P..

k's89rs

what is the difference between a spool and a mini spool? i never knew that.......i just want to run a posi

AlkyIROC

A spool is a complete carrier replacement. It's all one piece and very strong. A mini spool is a simple device that replaces the side gears in an open carrier which locks the axles together. It still uses the diff center pin and relies on a weak open carrier casting. High HP cars or excessive street use on pavement can break the carrier or the mini spool. Mini spools are designed for dirt track racing.

I currently have a strange spool in my car. I have an aluminum spool sitting on the shelf in my garage waiting to go in some day. I want an aluminum center section first.

IHI

iTrader: (1)

I can attest first hand, mini spools WILL snap off the stock axles where they seat in the mini spool if street driven. Buddy snapped 2 axles this way, just too much stress when driving on the street with traction, they were primarily designed for the cheap mud packing crowd since most times they are spinning going around corners.

brutalform

IMO, the Detroit Locker is the best of both worlds!

k's89rs

what would you suggest though for a nice street machine? posi or locker?

92'Sleeper

My opinion, I would not go with DTS. Go with Currie or Strange. I ordered mine from DTS and had nothing but problems from day 1. First off they set-up the Ring and Pinion wrong, after about 10 mins. of driveing it felt like the brakes were being applied. I took it to a friend that owns a Rearend shop. He took it apart and the gears were burnt. It took 2 months of arguing with them before they would replace the gears. When the gears came in they replaced them with a cheaper brand. I had Richmond at first, they sent Motive back. I ordered it with no Disks, Calipers, Brakes. When I recieved it, it had all that, I called then up to find out what the Brake Pad # was, so I could get brake pads when they wore down. They told me that my rear didn't have all that on it, I told them it did. Well, they couldn't tell me any info on the Brakes because they said all there rear ends come without Disks, Calipers and pads. Maybe it was just the Tech that built this rear end and the customer service tech I talked to, but I would never recommend DTS to anyone. Thats just my 2 cents.

On the Pinion and Tork Arm issue from the DTS guy, I had no problems with that on this 9 inch.

k's89rs

well i wont go with them then. they were the ones that told me my torque arm got in the way of the pinion, so it had to be moved over; therefore causing vibrations. they dont seem to be very knowing of their products. However I found a guy in iowa that cuts rears. he mainly does A and G bodies. he has cut f-body rears though. as a matter of fact he said he has an 87 iroc that he is about to make a ford 9 for.

brutalform

A Detroit Locker is a posi. A locker is just the type of differential it is, as compared to a spool or "open" differential.
A locker is the best all around performance setup IMO. It is very streetable, will allow itself to disengage while going around corners and all. Then it locks on the straightaways, just like a spool. The locker is THE strongest choice for the street, and you must use a minimum of 31 spline axles for it. Look at a Locker as a spool, that can be used on the street.

If you chooce a Currie D/L, they will also send you a "no spin" differential booklet with it. It explains the functions and precautions you should know about with it.

Ive got one, and I am very pleased with it. Installing the 9" will allow you to forget about your rear end problems for good.

k's89rs

i really appreciate your help everyone. im kinda new to all of this and i want to learn terminology. so a spool is like an open diff? and a locker is a posi? hope im getting all of that down right......
so basically i want a custom fabbed housing, brackets and all, a complete pumpkin (i learned that one too), at least 31 spline axles, bearings etc. now what should i do about brakes? im definitly going disc, just dont know what.

brutalform

No, an open diff is like a stock V6 F-Body rear, (one tire only spins). A spool will turn both wheels at the same time,(posi). Same as a Locker.

Confuzed1

iTrader: (4)

Not trying to hijack the post, but I figured I had something to add.

Unfortunately, my one-legger 10 bolt drum brake rear didn't give the the option of waiting until it broke. Although the gears were fine, it needed a pass. side 26 splinen axle because the hub flange was distorted and causing vibs at highway speeds.

I suppose I coulda gotten another 90-92 10 bolt, added a nice posi etc... and after 1K or so, it may of held for awhile..or not. But I know I won't break a 9".

So I ordered a Moser 9" yesterday, and it should be at my door in four days. Cheapest I found was around 2300 with the options I wanted - which wasn't much. 31 spline, True Trac posi which is supposedly made by detroit locker, kept the Ford big ends on and just got the 11" drum kit.

They didn't mention a brake line kit being needed though. I was hoping my stock lines would plug right in.??

I have heard though, that the rear sway bar will need different brackets to attach them to the bigger tubes.

It was a close decision between a 9" and a 12 bolt for me. I'll soon see how much of a "Bolt in" this is!

brutalform

No your not hijacking it. Mine was a straight forward install. They all range in price around the 2300.00 mark. Mine was a bit more because I ordered it with black powdercoating. Man, you gotta get this option! My friend did not, and hes painting his rear every spring. He mentioned to get it as he should have, and Im glad I did. If I can figure out how to post the correct sized pics., I will.

brutalform

Im gonna try this pic.

Confuzed1

iTrader: (4)

That looks sweet!

Are those the Spohn sway bar brackets, or did you just use 3" exhaust clamps? And do you have any comment as to brake lines - do I need the braided line kit?

I'm gonna end up doing a bunch of stuff at once....install SFC's, Lakewood LCA's - maybe with relocation brackets, and the rear end. - Oh, engine and trans still needs installed too! lol

So I'm hoping to have any "detail" parts for the rear install up front, so I might be back on the road by summer at the latest....

EDIT: BTW, probably too late to add any more options. Looks like I'll have to deal with the cosmetics...

brutalform

The sway brackets came with the swaybar kit, from Suspension Techniques. The antisquat brackets are Spohn.

The brake lines are the same from the stock rear. Just some minor shaping, and you can affix them to the axle tubes with nylon ties. Never even had to disconnect them from the rear calipers.

I have upgraded all the brake hoses on the car. Earls sells a nice braided kit with the two front lines, and one rear line, from the body to the split. I believe Russell does also.

I was suprised that the rear was as easy to install as it was. It was probably one of the few easy installs on the car, believe it or not.

brutalform

Oh wait, I think I did use 3" clamps due to the size of the axle tubes.......Sorry!

k's89rs

brutalform that is freakin nice! you got that thing in 2002? so when you got yours what all did you have to do to get it to go in? thanks for correcting me guys on the spool! i need to learn these things.

brutalform

[QUOTE]Originally posted by k's89rs
[B]brutalform that is freakin nice! you got that thing in 2002? so when you got yours what all did you have to do to get it to go in?

Bolted right in!

k's89rs

brutalform what did you do about brakes? are you running disc? did you get them from currie?

brutalform

I took my disc brake brackets off my original rear, and mailed them, along with new ARP metric studs, and they took care of the rest. I got my new rear with everything assembled, and bolted to a pallet. All ready to install. Then I added lube before I installed it. This is easier with the torque arm bracket. If you want, you can pay extra and have a fill cap installed in the top of the case for easy lube adding. One thing though, dont use ANY synthetic in these rears. Currie says they dont know, but these lubes will eat up a 9".

k's89rs

ok so if i sent some rear discs and the calipers they will take care of the rest. cool. no synthetic. ok i can do that.

brutalform

NO,NO,NO, You just send the brackets your calipers are bolted to. They will make the hole larger in the center, to accomodate the larger axle tubes. My advice is to call them and discuss it. They will point you in the right direction. If you have a certain amount you want to spend...they wont skimp on you.

Confuzed1

iTrader: (4)

9" rear is due to be delivered tomorrow!! Wahooo!!

I'll shoot a few pics when it arrives.

I plan to get the Spohn sway bar brackets and end links next...details....

EDIT: Oh, and a conversion U-joint.....

brutalform

Cool, lookin forward to seeing the pics.

Confuzed1

iTrader: (4)

Arrived on schedule! Looks awesome up close!

Here's the housing:

Confuzed1

iTrader: (4)

Housing will have to be painted.....True-Trac posi...

Confuzed1

iTrader: (4)

And 31 spline axles!.....

Confuzed1

iTrader: (4)

Last one.....brakes:

EvilCartman

iTrader: (1)

Hey, that looks familer except for the 3rd member case. I got mine localy and the rest of the stuff from Currie.

AlkyIROC

Check out that beefly torque arm mount. You might want to take some close up pictures of the bracket and the tubes welded to the housing so others can see why it's not easy to just make one to install on any diff.

Confuzed1

iTrader: (4)

Yeah, I noticed that right off the bat....that torque arm mount must weigh 15 lbs. by itself!! I'll take a closeup of both tomorrow.

zdrag28

are your axleshafts the same length or is one shorter?
to offset center so driveshaft is straight or is it on a slight angle to the pass. side?

Confuzed1

iTrader: (4)

Well, here's a pic of the housing:

Confuzed1

iTrader: (4)

I'm pretty sure the axles are the same length....and I'm sure the driveline has to be "in-line" to prevent torqing things at the wrong angle...

zdrag28

yea but the pinion is not in the center it is offset to lower pass. side so if they are same length and axle centered in car the pinion will not be directly straight with trans
making driveshaft at a slight angle
I am in process of putting a 9" in my 86 and was wondering about this,both my axles are same length

EvilCartman

iTrader: (1)

As far as the axles go, I think they're offset.

k's89rs

wow! that looks really good! so that is a moser housing? how much did all of that run you? also another thing i need to ask about is ive heard that our rearends are kinda off centered on our cars? a friend of mine pointed that out. i also notice that it sticks out a little more on the right. what is up with that? or am i hallucinating? i heard that when the rear is lowered it causes problems. true or not true.