my new m/t et street radials did this after spinning 10ft and grabbing hard due to poor track prep!

 

so, anyone got a used posi they want to sell for cheap? 26 spline axles, 3.23+ carrier, 7.5" 10bolt.

 

Since you've got everything apart, you might as well look for parts from a 89 or newer and go up to 28 spline system. Not alot stronger, but stronger none the less.

 

i wanna spend the least amount of money getting this thing back on the track as possible, cause i plan to upgrade to a 9" sometime in the not-so-far future, and would rather not have too much money tied up in it.

 

Those powertrax lockers are junk, local manual tranny shop had a dealership and it cost him big time. They plain fail. I have run a spool on the street and don't mind it a bit. WIth a soft sidewall tire I don't even know it's back there. Gotta use common sense though if you were to get caught in rain, going around corners etc etc. But I don't worry a bit about the rear though.

 

what about those mini-spools that jegs sells for $89?

 

What springs were you using? And what have you done to strenghten the housing/case? I ran the Lock-Rite locker for years without problem, cutting shorter 60s than you.

 

that had the street springs in it, and nothing was done to beef the rear, cause i am just saving for a 9". i had the strip springs in it at one time, but the car gets driven everyday, so i thought i would go back to the street springs cause the strip springs were pretty loud. i am going to attribute the breaking of this locker to a few things, one of which could have been avoided:
-track prep was very marginal. i have determined that the guys don't do much for track prep on friday nights.
-had a BRAND NEW set of mt dr's. i spun outta the hole, and when they caught, they kinda wheel hopped, and broke the locker.
-my heavy right foot (this one coulda been avoided). i got excited cause i was racing a buddy who has a 350 and claimed to be making more power than my 305. i woulda beat him really bad had i not broke. but when the tires spun, i did't lift. they spun HARD (flashed to 6k) should lifted, cause when they caught, i got VIOLENT wheelhop. this would have been avoided completely, but i let my 305 pride get in the way

 

you know what, I just thought of something. I have those parts for the powertrax. Think they're still in good shape, I busted one of the paddles. Let me know if you want those parts

 

those appear to be a different style. how much would you want for them?

 

My buddy ran one of those Mini-Spools from JEGS....it worked great. It never failed, although it not the best thing for a daily driven car. IT would probably be the cheapest way to get your car going. By the way he also was running a 7.5 10 bolt...it was in a g-body though.

 

You're missing:

-weak rear end housing.

#1 cause of 10 bolt failure is flex. True the internals are small, but the flex is what causes the internals to fail.

 

you really think that putting a stronger diff cover would help?

 

You could also weld the axle tubes to the pumpkin, it's a basically free mod that adds a good amount of strength. I don't think the factory even tack welds the tubes, there just pressed in.

 

I KNOW a rear support cover will help. So will welding the axle tubes to the housing. An in extreme cases, you could even put a tube brace kit on it. I've done all of the above. It's cheap insurance. Richmond Gear, GM, and several others manufacturers all claim flex is the main reason for 7.5" failure. Spend the few hundred dollars on the above rather than continually throwing junkyard rears in it or a $2200 12 bolt or 9".

LPW Racing makes a good rear cover and support kit. That's what I went with.

 

i'm digging the sound of that. the 305 has the potential to run low 13's as is. i'm still playing with the tune. i do plan to upgrade to some higher flowing heads (probably home-brewed 416's w/ 1.94/1.5) and an XE274 cam. with those, high 12's are in reach. welding the axle tubes up, that's definetly an idea, something that will probably happen within the week or two. i'll look into the cover deal. it's got a set of richmond gears in it already. would going with just a factory posi be a good idea? thinking of upgrading to the 28spline. what about some moser axles? worth it?

Marc, can you show some pics of the installation?

 

Just the price of shipping... It's the No-Slip locker, 400 dollar version that's suppose to be nice and quiet.

 

No I don't have a pic of my rear. Here is a similar one though:



The only difference on the Camaro/Firebird specific kit is the driver side brace, which welds to the panhard mount.

BTW - Sorry about the Ford content

And on a side note, the XE274 works quite well with my World Products SR heads. Cleaned up 416 should be similar. Though high 12s may be a bit optimistic with 45 fewer cubes.

 

the no-slip is different and would require me to buy new parts to replace the broken ones, again, the same boat i am in now. but just outta curiousity, can you post pics of the parts you busted? i am really wanting to upgrade to 28spline axles, but this might get me through till then.

Marc:
a bit optimistic? we shall see when it gets together. you may be right. but i have seen people get into the 12's n/a with the 305 with a smaller cam than the xe274, less porting than i plan to do and stock size valves. also, they had the more restrictive tpi on their car where as i have a carb, and will be getting a 650dp to replace my 600vs soon. my father and i are the kings of fast/small/wierd combos, and i am determined to get the car into the 12's without n2o and without killing streetability. i have already run 13.70 at 97mph and i have run a few 100mph passes. if i can ever get the two to mesh (again, carb tuning) i should have some 13.3's and 13.4's in her, as is.

not too sure i will need the axle brace kit, but i will be getting the cover with the bolt holes for the brace kit just in case. does anyone have the moser axles? are they worth it? it seems like this would be the easiest way to go to the 28spline axles. probably not the cheapest, but definetly the easiest to find.

 

mw66nova......
I know you know what you bought and have, but I got to ask you again...

Are you sure that's the powertrax lock right locker???

It looks alot more like the weaker no slip to me...
Did you get street springs and strip spring to go into the locker?
Is it one of the 1st designs of the powertrax?

If I remember right, they 1st made a "lock right" then made a stronger more race suited unit, and named it "lock right, and changed the name to the old 1st ones "no slip"

Mine looks nothing like yours. I bought my late last summer. Power trax lock right.. Came with just one set of springs, no "street" springs.

Here take a look at this...

 

This little tab broke and a "tooth" snapped off on another part. Jammed the passenger wheel in to free wheel mode while the driver side wheel did all the work.

 

actually, yours and mine look very similiar, except for the placement of the springs. my unit is like 5 or 6 years old. and when they first came out, they were called "LockRight".
mine did come with 2 sets of springs, one for street one for stip

the no-slip has a billigillion pieces, the lockright only has 4.

EvilCartmen, dude, i don't know man, that looks complicated...is that the only part that broke? looks like basically the same situation as me, just not as extreme. i am tempted to go with an Auburn Posi next.

 

That's the most damage that happened along with another little tooth broken off. Really bumed me out cause I went back to the 1 tire fire for a couple months, then the 9" was dropped in