Transmissions and Drivetrain Need help with your trans? Problems with your axle?

Lockup switch from tech article

Old May 20, 2005 | 08:51 AM
  #1  
Wishmaster's87IROC's Avatar
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From: Winston salem, NC
Car: 1987 1SICIROC.....1999 TransAm
Engine: 385 HSR.....LS1
Transmission: 700R4 with Midwest 3400 2.4str...M6
Axle/Gears: SLP Zexel Posi unit 3.42's...3.73's
Lockup switch from tech article

Who has done the switch that is in the Tech article? Did you see any kind of improvment? was it a pain to always remember to turn it on or off? Im assuming that you would only turn the lockup on once you were in 4th gear, correct?
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Old May 20, 2005 | 01:11 PM
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mdricken's Avatar
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From: Marion, Iowa
Car: 92 Camaro
Engine: ZZ4 Crate Engine w/Hot Cam
Transmission: Rebuilt 700R4 with Transgo and MW 3
Axle/Gears: 3.73 Eaton Posi
I've done this mod. I did it in a hurry so I could get good mileage right after the carb was installed.

Works good. I usually turn it on when I'm out of the city on open highway. The only problem I have is when OTHER people drive it. My buddy gunned it one time on the freeway - not good for TC clutches

Why are you considering doing this? The ECM seemed to work fine for me when it was hooked up - good mileage and stuff.
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Old May 20, 2005 | 01:44 PM
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From: Winston salem, NC
Car: 1987 1SICIROC.....1999 TransAm
Engine: 385 HSR.....LS1
Transmission: 700R4 with Midwest 3400 2.4str...M6
Axle/Gears: SLP Zexel Posi unit 3.42's...3.73's
my lockup comes on in 3rd gear and sometimes 2nd..it feels like. I know for a fact that as soon as I hit 3rd....lockup hits...and it feels like it trying to make its mind up on what to do......the trans guy drove it and told me that lockup is coming in and out. He was going to install a 4th gear lockout switch but told me that this would be just as good.



what gauge wire did you use?

Last edited by Wishmaster's87IROC; May 20, 2005 at 01:46 PM.
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Old May 20, 2005 | 02:39 PM
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naf
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From: Lexington, SC
Car: 1987 SC/1985 TA
Engine: 350/vortec/fitech
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 3.27 9-bolt
Instead of wiring it to come on with a switch, why not wire it to not come on? What you can do is break the brake pedal switch with a wire running to a switch on/near your dash. When the switch is open the TCC won't lock up. When it is closed the ecm will control lockup normally. That way you can just turn off the lock up when you're driving around town or it becomes annoying.

Your trans guy should be able to make an adjustment in the valve body to not allow lockup in third gear. I've had it done with mine but because the shop did it, I can't be specific on the details.
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Old May 20, 2005 | 07:05 PM
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Wishmaster's87IROC's Avatar
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From: Winston salem, NC
Car: 1987 1SICIROC.....1999 TransAm
Engine: 385 HSR.....LS1
Transmission: 700R4 with Midwest 3400 2.4str...M6
Axle/Gears: SLP Zexel Posi unit 3.42's...3.73's
that sounds better than on or off. That way just like you say I would only have to ability to turn it off......otherwise the ecm controls it.
Where is the wire located on the brake pedal? Also do I just get a 2 prong switch and run both wires on the brake pedal wire and that will switch it on/off...Im am not good with wires.

My converter comes on in 2,3,and 4.....we only really need it in 4, correct?


Can the ECM chip be tweeked to mess with the converter?
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Old May 20, 2005 | 10:17 PM
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where i live in the blackhills we mostly do canyon racing and put our lock up on a switch so we get engine bracking
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Old May 20, 2005 | 10:35 PM
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From: Mercedes Norte, Heredia, Costa Rica
Car: 1984 Z28 Hardtop
Engine: 383 Carb
Transmission: 4L60
Axle/Gears: 3.54 Dana 44
Originally posted by iroc&harley
where i live in the blackhills we mostly do canyon racing and put our lock up on a switch so we get engine bracking
You spend most of your time in manual third then?
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Old May 21, 2005 | 09:27 AM
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From: Lexington, SC
Car: 1987 SC/1985 TA
Engine: 350/vortec/fitech
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 3.27 9-bolt
12 volt power for the lock up comes from the accessory panel through the brake pedal switch to the circuit. The brake pedal switch cuts this power by opening when the pedal is pushed. You'll have to cut one of these wires (doesn't really matter which)and install a second, remote switch between the two ends. This will provide a manual switch to cut power to the circuit in addition to the existing brake pedal switch, which you want to keep functional. You can match the existing wire guage.

When you look at the brake pedal you may have two electrical switches connected, if you have cruise it also uses a brake switch. The cruise is normally the smaller one but some cruise controls were dealer installed and could be different. On my 87 the TCC switch also has the cruise vacuum hose connected to it.

The TCC should not normally come on in second. You may eventually wind up taking it back to a shop anyway, but a disable switch is cheap, easy and can be taken out later if no longer needed. You only really need lock up in fourth.

Overrun clutch.
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