Okay I'm kidding. I'm just really excited that I am putting my clutch back in tomorrow evening. I've been this camaro-less since two wednesdays ago. I don't know how some of you guys go so long without them.

Also a LB9 flywheel replacing the L03 flywheel


And hopefully the best bang for the buck (not literally)

 

Alright its back in action again after a long night. But I have one problem.

After warmed up, the transmission will seem to skip on the clutch when disengaged while in gear. Like its bucking. I have flowtech headers (read zero heat containment properties) and I think the slave can't stay out enough.

Should I try bleeding the slave? (I haven't yet, since I didn't open the system up)

Also can I use dot 4 and 5 in gm hydraulics?

 

Well the transmission went out and back in, but it still has trouble shifting once it gets warmed up. I have bled the slave and wrapped in high temp tape (to keep the exhaust heat from it). I have the throw out bearing as the second picture always shows.

So I think I'm left with a bent clutch fork or bad pivot ball, although they both look good visually. How do you diagnose a bad clutch fork?

What causes easy shifts when the transmission is cold and not when hot, especially with first gear at a stop?

Also what causes a clutch to wear excessively on the flywheel side?

Does the picture of the old bearing show any more clues?

 

TTT, I know its only been a day, but I've searched quite a bit. And I need to know some definate answers before I order a heavy duty clutch fork and new pivot ball stud.

 

you had the LB9 flywheel resurfaced before install, correct?

 

jmd, the flywheel was resurfaced before the install.

 

I don't know of any "HD clutch forks" for the 84-92 models. Stick with DOT 3 on the fluid. Coated headers *are* worth it for future reference.

Unless you went with new pre-bled GM LT1 hydraulics, I would bleed them. Pressure bleeding should get you good results.

Your question about excess disc wear on flywheel side compared to pressure plate side - if the clutch you pulled was of unknown history, see if it might be a dual friction.

 

Well I haven't found a hd clutch fork yet either, so that's probably not going to happen. I am using the synthetic dot 3/4 fluid.

Coated heaters are a must next time.

There were pre-bleed GM LT1 hydraulics when I put them in April, however I did not open up the lines when installed the clutch.

How would I tell if its a dual friction (it didn't seem to hold that way and it history is pretty unknown, except it has less than 25k miles on it).

To bleed LT1 hydraulics you simply unbolt the slave and pump with your hand and have the resivour cap off, correct? Or is there more?

I'm going to check the amount of slave motion and if its close to 5/8" is it safe to assume the clutch fork or pivot stud is bad?

 

LT1 clutch line bleeding
I'd say that would be worth trying, though in theory it shouldn't be needed on a new assy.

If both sides of the friction material appear identical, I'd guess not it's not a D/F.

Were the fork & pivot heavily worn before? Measuring the standing height of the fingers of the pressure plate after it's bolted down & comparing to a known good clutch might be enlightening. Usually not a problem with the 84-92 hyd / fork setup but if you have it apart...

 

Well they looked to be used but I didn't have anything to compare them against. When I take it apart next time I'll probably grab some pictures and measurements. Its just annoying, I'm probably going to just order the fork and stud, I can't think of anything else.

I'm going to bleed it once more and measure the amount of travel distance of the slave cylinder. If this bleeding or fork and stud don't work, I am in a world of pain . I would have all new parts and still trouble.

 

Are t-56 (ls1 and lt1) clutch alignment tools the same as t-5 26 spline ones? Mine was thrown away

 

The clutch tool is from a "thirdgen" clutch kit. The car is a 2001 Camaro.

yes

 

Sweet, now I just need to borrow one before Tuesday, when I take it out and put it back in again. I ordered a new fork today but no stud was available (except dealer). I can't wait for this thing to be right again, so I can put other parts on it.

 

What did you find to be the problem?

 

The problem was not getting enough throwout bearing movement, I corrected this by getting an adjustable ball stud from McLeod. Its been fine ever since that fix, which was around Sept. 5 2005.

 

Thanks for the update. I am having the same problem, I will try that.