rebuilding a 10 bolt
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Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 132
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Car: 86 trans am
Engine: 350 cid from a 69 chevy truck
Transmission: original 700r4
rebuilding a 10 bolt
how many have rebuilt a 10 bolt rearend. mine has started to wine . I checked the oil level and added some more to it but still has a wine. so im going to pull the cover off and check the bearings.
before I do this , I would like to know where to get a kit? or does anyone sell a kit to rebuild a 10 bolt. I could just go to a local autoparts store but they will only sell the parts individually, and im sure to forget something after it's all apart. a kit would keep my out of trouble.
I'm not sure if im going to putt a posi in it just yet, have to see how far I can stretch the $$$.
before I do this , I would like to know where to get a kit? or does anyone sell a kit to rebuild a 10 bolt. I could just go to a local autoparts store but they will only sell the parts individually, and im sure to forget something after it's all apart. a kit would keep my out of trouble.
I'm not sure if im going to putt a posi in it just yet, have to see how far I can stretch the $$$.
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From: Carmel NY
Car: 85 IROC Ht
Engine: 383 carb
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: Moser 12 bolt 411
Check out www.ringpinion.com the master rebulid kit is like 150$ or so . They have all the suff you need and they have wherhouses on both coasts . You will get your parts fast and at a good price .
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 132
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Car: 86 trans am
Engine: 350 cid from a 69 chevy truck
Transmission: original 700r4
thanks, I hope everything goes together smoothly, with out much problems.
I have been searching around local autoparts stores and online and was finding that most only sell a differencial kit . and the kits didnt have the outer housing bearings or any shims , and all local parts stores around here dont stok the kits or the shims but they do have the outer bearings. I guess it's just my kind of luck.
I have been searching around local autoparts stores and online and was finding that most only sell a differencial kit . and the kits didnt have the outer housing bearings or any shims , and all local parts stores around here dont stok the kits or the shims but they do have the outer bearings. I guess it's just my kind of luck.
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Joined: Jun 2005
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From: Carmel NY
Car: 85 IROC Ht
Engine: 383 carb
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: Moser 12 bolt 411
Thats funny I have the same kind of luck . When I rebuild't my rear I had all the parts but no shims . I went to the auto parts store and they look at me like I had two heads . I do not know what you are doing to this rear , but if you are playing with pinion depth you will need an extra set of berings . The exta set to hone out the center as a test set . If you keep the stock gearing use your stock shims . Good Luck
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Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 132
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Car: 86 trans am
Engine: 350 cid from a 69 chevy truck
Transmission: original 700r4
well I ran into more bad luck, after getting the carrier out and I could see the ring and pinion better. I found that they are toast. it even had a small fracture on one of the ring gear teeth. so know im looking to find new gears.
who has the best price on new gears?
I know think I would have been better off getting a good used rearend from a salvage yard.
who has the best price on new gears?
I know think I would have been better off getting a good used rearend from a salvage yard.
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Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 447
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From: Carmel NY
Car: 85 IROC Ht
Engine: 383 carb
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: Moser 12 bolt 411
Cant blame you for that . I would not use old gears not worth the hassell . A new set will run you around 180$ where ever you look . I am running yokon gears from Randys Ring and Pinion . They are quiet and beffey . Keeping your ratio would be good , for you would not have to mess with the speedo . If you want to look around by a Chevy High Perfomance mag and in the back there is all the advetisments .
Its not to late to get the salvey . The cost to rebuild your rear is about 400$ and whats the best price you get on a used one 250$. That is if your carrier is good . What is this car uesd for daily driver or weekend pounder .
Its not to late to get the salvey . The cost to rebuild your rear is about 400$ and whats the best price you get on a used one 250$. That is if your carrier is good . What is this car uesd for daily driver or weekend pounder .
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Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 132
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Car: 86 trans am
Engine: 350 cid from a 69 chevy truck
Transmission: original 700r4
I got a bargan for a set of 3.42 gears. I installed them today, it took me almost all day to remove the rearend and put everything back. the trouble I had wasnt installing anything it was getting everything out , I kept breaking tools and a few bolts.
I don't recomend anyone with a short fuze try this.
the gears I got for $100. from a local machine shop. they said they were new, and the gears did come in a box.
how much of a difference should I expect going from 2.73 gears to a 3.42 gears ?
I don't recomend anyone with a short fuze try this.
the gears I got for $100. from a local machine shop. they said they were new, and the gears did come in a box.
how much of a difference should I expect going from 2.73 gears to a 3.42 gears ?
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Joined: Jun 2005
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From: Ohio
Car: 85 IROC
Engine: 305 TPI
Transmission: 700R4
what tools do you need to install new gears? not including pulling the rear (ive dont that). i have a spare 10bolt laying around and id like to rebuild it for later. do you have any links to sites that show what tools you need and how you do it?
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Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 132
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Car: 86 trans am
Engine: 350 cid from a 69 chevy truck
Transmission: original 700r4
you will need good quality metric sockets. trust me on this!
inch lbs torque wrench , and a ft lbs torque wrench.
some thread locker,
grease pen or something to mark with.
pry bar or 2
the nut that holds the yoke is a 32m socket you will need to buy this before you attempt to remove it.
buy or barrow a chiltons repair book . not the haynes book!
before you start unbolting everything . first try to break all the bolts loose first. start with the nut on the yoke, the book say's to use a tool to lock the yoke in place so it wont turn. but if you have a drill and some scrap piece of metal, you can make one .
I also made my own seal, bearing driver tools. you maybe able to buy them if not measure the outside diameter and use a metal pipe or a large socket with the same diameter.
I hope this helps
inch lbs torque wrench , and a ft lbs torque wrench.
some thread locker,
grease pen or something to mark with.
pry bar or 2
the nut that holds the yoke is a 32m socket you will need to buy this before you attempt to remove it.
buy or barrow a chiltons repair book . not the haynes book!
before you start unbolting everything . first try to break all the bolts loose first. start with the nut on the yoke, the book say's to use a tool to lock the yoke in place so it wont turn. but if you have a drill and some scrap piece of metal, you can make one .
I also made my own seal, bearing driver tools. you maybe able to buy them if not measure the outside diameter and use a metal pipe or a large socket with the same diameter.
I hope this helps
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