Ok i just finished switching my car over to carb and i made a mounting bracket for my kickdown cable. Now this problem i have now i used to have when the car was TPI. The problem is that when i leave the car in drive, at full throttle, the car will shift at 4500 rpm. and my other problem is the tranny doesn't shift as hard any more and its slugish netween shifts. lastly, if i'm driving along and wack the gas my tranny doesn't down shift it stays in that gear. What may be causing my tranny to act up? is it on its way out and just needs rebuild or is my kickdown cable messed up or something? a fine example of one of the above issues is i used to be able to spin/chirp second gear and now it seems like the tranny is slipping and not grabing.

 

Start by adjusting the tv cable. It also posible that after the swap you motor is making less power.

 

You mentioned "making" a cable housing. You may not have the geometry correct, causing the tv cable to not adjust properly. I got a nice cable bracket from summit for $35 p/n EDL-8030. It's strong and sturdy, fully adjustable, and doesn't flex any.

Although - I'm having the same problem LOL. But I don't think it's the cable bracket in my case. I swapped a 305 for a 350 - the tranny had a shift kit already installed, but you couldn't feel it. I think now my 350 makes enough power to let you know the tranny slips, whereas my 305 didn't and with the shift kit it just shifted normal instead of having harder shifts like it should have.

Anyway, it's an idea.

 

Ok i played around with my throttle valve cable, or as reffered to as my kick down cable, and that was my problem. it used to do the same thing back when it was TPI so i think it may just be that over the yrs the cable warped or something. so to fix it i just pulled out some cable and tightened it. i drove it around a bunch and got it right so now it shifts hard and where its supposed to and it down shifts correctly.. so as of now my swap is complete and i'm throwing on some headers i bought tomorrow. too bad its the end of the season here at my track or else i'd go get some track time in before i possibly rebuild my motor over the winter.

As far as power goes, before i swaped to carb my car was running terribly. I spent tons of cash and time trying to figure out why and i never found the reason. What made wanna switch over to carb is i read a couple of article in some magazines of third gens making more power in certain application with a carb. that and i did tons of research on beefing up the tpi system and it was just too much cash for little power, in my opinion. i'm sure others will disagree and thats fine, but thats my out look on TPI. While i had the tpi system on i took the car to the track and i ran a best of 15.2, which i knew was way slow even for a stock 91 formula. Now being switched over the car runs way better then it did with the tpi and it feels about 60% stronger. in all honesty i wouldn't doubt if i loose a second at the track. In my opinion the swap is well worth it, but just beware cause its not as easy and fast to do as everyone says. your gonna run into a load of problems and a lot of times comming on here for a quick answer won't do it cause so many ppl have different views and opinions of things so u never get a straight answer. all in all over time i did get the help i need from here and ppl i know personally. so thanks for the help with my swap guys.

 

Glad it worked for you!

My tranny still slips - I'm under the assumption that it's just toast, but you couldn't tell with the 305 in front of it.

And like you, I'm tickled pink with the carb setup. I also have a 1990 RS TBI that I modded (headers, heads, intake, LT! cam) and the ECM chokes on the mods. I spent almost a year collecting data and paying for chip tuning, and all I got was - it runs - and with less power than before! I'm awaiting January - our emissions goes away, and I can carb it too, and finally realize what potential my efforts have. Too many computers ruin my life already - my car I want controlled by my foot!

 

i'm still using my ecm just to have the stock gauges function. i also found pulling the tank incredibly hard so i bought a bypass style fuel pressure regulator and that did the trick. you going to carb should pretty much be the same situation i would think. once its carbed that little ecm can't do **** anymore. its devilish powers are taken away lol a lot of ppl say carbs are crude and fuel injection is better, but some of these units from the factory are just limitted to what they can do and making them go beyond that costs a ton. it's too bad all these honda guys can't use carbs. my buddy has spent so much money tuning his gsr and he has gone through 2 motors. let me think, 1500 on an aem stand alone or couple hundred on a carb. i'll go with the carb.

 

Just to have stock guages function? The ECM controls NONE of the guages (except the damned SES light)! I yanked my ECM out - everything works fine. As long as you have a CTS, a OPSU, and the wires connected to the fuel pump. So yank that damned ECM out of that poor car, set it on fire, get naked, and dance around it! (Or see if anyone that needs a new one will give ya some cash for it - they go bad all the time).