swapping in 4th gen rear
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 572
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From: Manchester, NH
Car: 91 Firebird
Engine: 191ci 6cyl
Transmission: 700r4
swapping in 4th gen rear
I'm looking to swap in a 94 firebird rear end, posi and disc brakes. Gotta get a proportioning valve as I understand it and wondering a few things:
Would this work:
http://store.summitracing.com/defaul...=egnsearch.asp
Link won't work, not cool. Wilwood WIL-260-8419
Female 1/8inch NPT inlet and outlet
Can I put it right at the master cyl? What size are the fittings? I hope 1/8th. Anything I should do to the rear end before I put it in?
Would this work:
http://store.summitracing.com/defaul...=egnsearch.asp
Link won't work, not cool. Wilwood WIL-260-8419
Female 1/8inch NPT inlet and outlet
Can I put it right at the master cyl? What size are the fittings? I hope 1/8th. Anything I should do to the rear end before I put it in?
Last edited by Nocturnall; Dec 7, 2005 at 04:08 AM.
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Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 646
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From: San Antonio
Car: 1981 Camaro; 1986 Z28
Engine: LT1; LT1
Transmission: 6 speed; 6 speed
Axle/Gears: 3.73; 3.42
the rear will bolt in but it is physically wider and will require more backspacing to keep the wheels in the wells. For the brakes, just splice an adjustable proportioning valve into the single brake line that runs to the rear. You need to keep it so it is faily accessible for fine tuning. They say you shouldn't use compression fittings to join brake lines but I haven't had any problems whatsoever with my setup.
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 572
Likes: 0
From: Manchester, NH
Car: 91 Firebird
Engine: 191ci 6cyl
Transmission: 700r4
I wanted to have it come right out of the master cyl, come out in a hardlined fitting and then have the brake line go into the proportioning valve.
Supreme Member
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 9,192
Likes: 19
From: Cary, North Carolina
Car: 1992 RS
Engine: Carbed 350
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.42 posi
Unless your good with making your own hardlines and finding fittings and adapters, or unless you need the adjustability for the track or something, your easiest solution is a 1LE prop valve. That 1/8 end doesn't match to anything in the brake system.
The 1LE valves are available at the dealer for like $70 and it's plug and play - no days spent getting adapters and flaring lines - hell the 18 trips to the hardware store alone will cost you 2 days and $20 in gas just to figure out which adapters. I just did mine with a 1LE valve, and it brakes fine. Search TGO and you'll find the GM part #.
The 1LE valves are available at the dealer for like $70 and it's plug and play - no days spent getting adapters and flaring lines - hell the 18 trips to the hardware store alone will cost you 2 days and $20 in gas just to figure out which adapters. I just did mine with a 1LE valve, and it brakes fine. Search TGO and you'll find the GM part #.
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 572
Likes: 0
From: Manchester, NH
Car: 91 Firebird
Engine: 191ci 6cyl
Transmission: 700r4
is the line out of the master cyl 1/8th? I wanted to put the valve right there and just do a straight line right into the prop valve if I could....
Supreme Member
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 9,192
Likes: 19
From: Cary, North Carolina
Car: 1992 RS
Engine: Carbed 350
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.42 posi
None of the brake lines will match the size of that wilwood adjustable prop valve - like I said, unless you need adjustability for something special, get a 1LE valve and be done.
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