Help! 3/4 inch Gap between Slave cylinder and Clutch Fork
Help! 3/4 inch Gap between Slave cylinder and Clutch Fork
I did something very wrong I think.
Okay, here goes.
I have a 1992 Firebird w/ 305 TBI manual transmission.
I took my T5 transmission off a couple months ago to replace the rear main seal. Since it was the winter, I took my sweet time getting it back together and just finished... Or so I thought.
When I first took it apart, my slave cylinder died because I, being an idiot, sat in my car and pushed the clutch... No fork for the slave cylinder to hit and POP! So I put a new slave cylinder on after reinstalling the transmission and there is about a 3/4 inch gap between the slave cylinder rod and the fork going into the bellhousing for the TO bearing. So I'm wondering what I did wrong. The new slave cylinder is stock and has the plastic strap on it that prevents it from going out too far. I bled it using the gravity method first and it was still 3/4 inches away from the clutch fork... So I don't want to pump the clutch and kill another slave cylinder. I've learned from my mistake.
What are the possibilities for this problem? I'm wondering if there is a spring missing in the bellhousing for the clutch fork or if somehow I knocked the TO bearing off when I put the transmission on by myself.
Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated. I want some feedback before I tear it all apart again.
Okay, here goes.
I have a 1992 Firebird w/ 305 TBI manual transmission.
I took my T5 transmission off a couple months ago to replace the rear main seal. Since it was the winter, I took my sweet time getting it back together and just finished... Or so I thought.
When I first took it apart, my slave cylinder died because I, being an idiot, sat in my car and pushed the clutch... No fork for the slave cylinder to hit and POP! So I put a new slave cylinder on after reinstalling the transmission and there is about a 3/4 inch gap between the slave cylinder rod and the fork going into the bellhousing for the TO bearing. So I'm wondering what I did wrong. The new slave cylinder is stock and has the plastic strap on it that prevents it from going out too far. I bled it using the gravity method first and it was still 3/4 inches away from the clutch fork... So I don't want to pump the clutch and kill another slave cylinder. I've learned from my mistake.
What are the possibilities for this problem? I'm wondering if there is a spring missing in the bellhousing for the clutch fork or if somehow I knocked the TO bearing off when I put the transmission on by myself.
Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated. I want some feedback before I tear it all apart again.
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From: Prince George, BC, Canada
Car: 89 GTA
Engine: 5.7L Supercharged
Transmission: T-56
Axle/Gears: Moser 9" 3.70
Originally Posted by sofakingdom
Cut the plastic strap.
It's only there so it doesn't fall apart in shipping and handling.
It's only there so it doesn't fall apart in shipping and handling.
My first thought was to cut the strap after opening the box. However, inside is an orange piece of paper which reads:
"Imporant Notice: Do not remove plastic nose strap from the push rod. This is a functional part of the assembly. Removal of plastic nose strap can result in noise, poor performance, and premature failure."
After noticing that there was the 3/4 inch gap, I asked my uncle and he said try cutting it. I cut the strap and we were bleeding the clutch. Then I pressed the clutch pedal down and POP! Dead slave cylinder...
"Imporant Notice: Do not remove plastic nose strap from the push rod. This is a functional part of the assembly. Removal of plastic nose strap can result in noise, poor performance, and premature failure."
After noticing that there was the 3/4 inch gap, I asked my uncle and he said try cutting it. I cut the strap and we were bleeding the clutch. Then I pressed the clutch pedal down and POP! Dead slave cylinder...
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From: Gambrills, Md
Car: clapped out 84Z
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[QUOTE=The Happy Viper]What are the possibilities for this problem? I'm wondering if there is a spring missing in the bellhousing for the clutch fork or if somehow I knocked the TO bearing off when I put the transmission on by myself.[QUOTE]
Look through the hole in bellhousing where the fork is and see if the TO bearing is where it should be.
Look through the hole in bellhousing where the fork is and see if the TO bearing is where it should be.
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 27,866
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Car: Yes
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I've cut the strap on every one of those I've installed for years and years. Including the one I drove this weekend (T-56; but the same basic thing). I have never in all my days seen one of those straps intact in an operaing car. I leave the plastic end in there though. Although, it usually wears through and disappears in not too much time.
Only way it should be able to come apart after it's been installed, is for the installation to be wrong; throwout not on the fork correctly, fork not on the ball in the BH correctly, slave cyl mounted on the wrong side of the BH flange (if that's even possible?), etc. Since I wan't there at the time, I'm not going to be very good at sitting here and guessing what went wrong. All I can suggest at this point is, go back and check all your work, carefully.
Only way it should be able to come apart after it's been installed, is for the installation to be wrong; throwout not on the fork correctly, fork not on the ball in the BH correctly, slave cyl mounted on the wrong side of the BH flange (if that's even possible?), etc. Since I wan't there at the time, I'm not going to be very good at sitting here and guessing what went wrong. All I can suggest at this point is, go back and check all your work, carefully.
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Supreme Member
iTrader: (7)
Joined: Jul 2000
Posts: 2,047
Likes: 2
From: Prince George, BC, Canada
Car: 89 GTA
Engine: 5.7L Supercharged
Transmission: T-56
Axle/Gears: Moser 9" 3.70
Originally Posted by The Happy Viper
My first thought was to cut the strap after opening the box. However, inside is an orange piece of paper which reads:
"Imporant Notice: Do not remove plastic nose strap from the push rod. This is a functional part of the assembly. Removal of plastic nose strap can result in noise, poor performance, and premature failure."
After noticing that there was the 3/4 inch gap, I asked my uncle and he said try cutting it. I cut the strap and we were bleeding the clutch. Then I pressed the clutch pedal down and POP! Dead slave cylinder...
"Imporant Notice: Do not remove plastic nose strap from the push rod. This is a functional part of the assembly. Removal of plastic nose strap can result in noise, poor performance, and premature failure."
After noticing that there was the 3/4 inch gap, I asked my uncle and he said try cutting it. I cut the strap and we were bleeding the clutch. Then I pressed the clutch pedal down and POP! Dead slave cylinder...
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