removing 305, connection to clutch?
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From: Calgary, AB, Canada
Car: 1982 Trans-Am
Engine: 355 w/ ported 416s
Transmission: T10, hurst shifter
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt, true-trac, 3.73
removing 305, connection to clutch?
I've removed everything holding my 305 to my car that I can see. Bellhousing bolts are gone, and motor mounts will be last to go, when I have the crane set up next to the car. The only thing left is a connection from the clutch pedal. It's so incredibly pickled in grease that I have no idea HOW it's connected to the car...
Looks like there's a metal sleeve which has a tang which has a nut on it, which you use to push the rod into the fork to disengage the clutch. So i'm guessing the connection to the motor is a pivot point? I don't want to break anything here, as replacement parts are scarce for a T10 I think.
Thanks
Looks like there's a metal sleeve which has a tang which has a nut on it, which you use to push the rod into the fork to disengage the clutch. So i'm guessing the connection to the motor is a pivot point? I don't want to break anything here, as replacement parts are scarce for a T10 I think.
Thanks
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From: Montana
Car: 85 IROC
Engine: L-69 305
Transmission: T-5 manual
if your leaving the tranny in which it sounds like you are then there is nothing you have to undo from the motorjust make sure youve cleared the input shaft from the tranny before you go to far up with the motor
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From: Calgary, AB, Canada
Car: 1982 Trans-Am
Engine: 355 w/ ported 416s
Transmission: T10, hurst shifter
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt, true-trac, 3.73
huh, ok, the clutch pedal is not actually connected to the motor at all? maybe it's the bellhousing then...
ok, move forward then up, hopefully the motor mounts will let me do that. Will try it tonight

ok, move forward then up, hopefully the motor mounts will let me do that. Will try it tonight
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Joined: May 2002
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From: Montana
Car: 85 IROC
Engine: L-69 305
Transmission: T-5 manual
did you take the tranny off the bellhousing or the bellhousing off the motor
if you took the tranny off the bell housing then you need to disconect the clutch system, i dont remember how to dod it off the top of my head though
if you took the tranny off the bell housing then you need to disconect the clutch system, i dont remember how to dod it off the top of my head though
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From: Calgary, AB, Canada
Car: 1982 Trans-Am
Engine: 355 w/ ported 416s
Transmission: T10, hurst shifter
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt, true-trac, 3.73
I removed the bellhousing to motor bolts so far.
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From: Calgary, AB, Canada
Car: 1982 Trans-Am
Engine: 355 w/ ported 416s
Transmission: T10, hurst shifter
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt, true-trac, 3.73
ah, finally got to look at it, it's threaded into the hole on the block, right above the oil filter, on the side. There's a single hole, and my clutch thing is bolted into it...
I've never removed a motor before, so I was just worried it's under the force of the clutch or something, and it'll go flying when I touch it....
well here goes nothing...
I've never removed a motor before, so I was just worried it's under the force of the clutch or something, and it'll go flying when I touch it....
well here goes nothing...
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iTrader: (1)
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From: Calgary, AB, Canada
Car: 1982 Trans-Am
Engine: 355 w/ ported 416s
Transmission: T10, hurst shifter
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt, true-trac, 3.73
damn, too late. Yea I guess while muscling the motor forward and up, the clutch rod came out and off...
It was indeed threaded into the block, apparently that's how it's done according to my haynes...
Upon reassembly i'll thread that into the block first, then bolt the 'z-bar', into the frame.
It was indeed threaded into the block, apparently that's how it's done according to my haynes...
Upon reassembly i'll thread that into the block first, then bolt the 'z-bar', into the frame.
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From: Montana
Car: 85 IROC
Engine: L-69 305
Transmission: T-5 manual
Originally Posted by Sonix
damn, too late. Yea I guess while muscling the motor forward and up, the clutch rod came out and off...
It was indeed threaded into the block, apparently that's how it's done according to my haynes...
Upon reassembly i'll thread that into the block first, then bolt the 'z-bar', into the frame.
It was indeed threaded into the block, apparently that's how it's done according to my haynes...
Upon reassembly i'll thread that into the block first, then bolt the 'z-bar', into the frame.
my badi swear there was nothing connected to the block on mine, must of forgot all the steps, crap
quick question, if you had the haynes please tell me you read that first on how to remove the motor, and if you did and it tild you to unbolt it from the block why didnt you look to see what it was talking about
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From: Calgary, AB, Canada
Car: 1982 Trans-Am
Engine: 355 w/ ported 416s
Transmission: T10, hurst shifter
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt, true-trac, 3.73
I have the haynes, and the helm. Trust me, I feel kinda dumb after seeing it in there, usually the haynes has super generic instructions based on removing a motor, from a car, and nothing specific or helpful. It also didn't have anything about removing the motor specifically from a std trans car with mechanical linkage, or the fact that you have to slide it forward to protect the tranny input shaft (which I hope I did right, that was a PITA.)
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