Ok guys, now comes the time where I need to plan on what to do in order to replace the clutch in my car. I do not want some monster clutch, I just want an average good one.

One clutch kit that I have been eyeing is the RAM stock replacement kit from summit, Part # RAM-88730. This comes with the pressure plate, disc, throwout bearing, and alignment tool. This kit does not have the pilot bushing in it. This cost $160.

Another kit that is cheaper and includes more is the ZOOM one from summit, Part # ZZZ-MU561. This has the pressure plate, disc, throwout bearing, alignment tool, AND pilot bushing.

Ok guys well which should I go for, and how important is the pilot bushing and is it important is it to replace the one in there now? I guess I could buy one if I got the RAM clutch. Is a pilot bushing and bearing the same thing or do you have one or the other? Also do I want solid or roller?

Thank you so much guys for any help you can provide me with, just trying to stop grinding in almost every gear.

Please toss some opinions in guys, I am tired of it being junk.

It is absolutely critical. You have exactly ZERO chance of success, if it is either missing, or damaged.One or the other. They are functionally equivalent.Yes.

Personally I prefer the bearing type; but the bushing is perfectly fine. There are millions of vehicles on the road with both types.

I wouldn't worry about whether the clutch kit includes the bushing or not. It's about a dollar at the parts store. I used to buy them in boxes of 10 for about $3 to keep in stock. I think I still have some laying around somewhere. The bearing is a little more $$$, but not much; about $12.

Both of those clutches are good quality parts; I've used both companies' products myself, with essentially perfect results. To be totally honest with you, EVERY SINGLE name-brand clutch I've ever used - including those 2, as well as Borg-Warner, Hays, McLeod, Centerforce, to name a few I can think of right off the top of my head - has been flawless. The thing that makes or breaks the clutch, is the installation. Put them in right, they work right. Put them in wrong, and it won't matter whose product it is, IT WILL SCREW UP.

Ok if I put in a bearing instead of the bushing I should be fine? Thanks man.

Yeah, that'd be good.

Either one is OK. Like I said, I prefer the bearing; but I've done LOTS of them with bushings, and had them work just fine too.

Ok so here is my list of things to replace

-Pressure plate
-Disc
-Throwout bearing
-Pilot bearing

Is there anything I should do while I am in there? Do I need ARP pressure plate bolts or are they pointless?

They're not a bad idea. Mr Gasket also offers them. Cheap insurance.

You'll want to get your flywheel turned, and maybe get new bolts for that too.

A new rubber boot for the clutch fork (dealer item only )

Anything else that you have to disturb while you're at it, if you want to replace it, now's a good time; trans mount, torque arm mount, shifter, for example.

You'll need to drain and refill the transmission. In a 90 model, you should use ATF. Takes about 3 quarts. The drain and fill plugs are in the pass side of the trans. DO NOT disturb the big Torx bolt on the driver's side!!!!

The clutch gear bearing retainer, which is sort of the "nose" of the transmission, may have wear from the throwout bearing sliding back and forth on it. They usually are OK, but you never know. If you can feel a divot where the TO rides on it, replace it; otherwise your clutch will have a sort of a weird annoying "catch" to it somewhere in the pedal motion. Also a dealer item.

You need to have some grease for alot of different things. I usually use Mobil1 synthetic grease, although any good quality non-fiber grease such as moly or white lithium will do fine. You'll want to clean off the splines on the front of the trans, and wipe a THIN film of grease on them; a good thick smear on the inside of the throwout bearing; the fork pivot ball; the push rod seat in the end of the fork; a thin smear on the fork where it meets the throwout; if you use a bushing, pack as much grease behind it as you easily can, but leave the actual ID of it empty (or the act of putting the trans in will eject the pilot!!) If you use a pilot bearing, those come pre-lubed, and don't need grease. Install it until it's just under flush with the bore of the crank where it goes.

If you are replacing your clutch, then you should have a pilot bearing already in there.

You might need a tool (puller) to get the old one out. Check on that before you start (I borrowed one from the mechanic up the street).