4G Driveshaft Yoke/Differential Leak Issues
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From: RVA
Car: 89RS,89TBI FB, 91Z28, 89TPI FORMULA
Engine: 357 SBC TPI
Transmission: World Class T-5 (for now)
Axle/Gears: Strange 12-bolt 3.73
4G Driveshaft Yoke/Differential Leak Issues
I have encountered 2 problems w/ my driveline:
1) I have a 4th Gen aluminum driveshaft from an 01 Firebird; new U joints, and the yoke that came with the shaft. I am trying to test fit the new shaft into my T5 and she don't wanna go. The inside of the slip yoke is a bit rusty, so I tried to lube it w/ some fresh syn-ATF. I can only get it in about 1/8 to 1/4 inch. Did I miss a thread about installing the 3rd gen slip yoke i have from the steel shaft or is there more I need to do in the way of lubing the new yoke?
2) My 10-bolt (3.73) was installed over the winter. From the time I brought it home I had identified a drip, not a leak, a drip after each outing. No, I did not take it back, yes I am to blame for that. (I'm sick of taking my car somewhere and leaving it for a month) So 5 months later, I wanna fix it. The bolts holding the torque arm to the diff is the best indicator of oil. There isn't much of any on the diff itself, although upon closer inspection, I have seen a trace. I'm guessing the only place oil is gonna come from is the yoke seal. Any other possibilities? I've read that it's no small task to DIY. Help?
Thanks...
Eric
1) I have a 4th Gen aluminum driveshaft from an 01 Firebird; new U joints, and the yoke that came with the shaft. I am trying to test fit the new shaft into my T5 and she don't wanna go. The inside of the slip yoke is a bit rusty, so I tried to lube it w/ some fresh syn-ATF. I can only get it in about 1/8 to 1/4 inch. Did I miss a thread about installing the 3rd gen slip yoke i have from the steel shaft or is there more I need to do in the way of lubing the new yoke?
2) My 10-bolt (3.73) was installed over the winter. From the time I brought it home I had identified a drip, not a leak, a drip after each outing. No, I did not take it back, yes I am to blame for that. (I'm sick of taking my car somewhere and leaving it for a month) So 5 months later, I wanna fix it. The bolts holding the torque arm to the diff is the best indicator of oil. There isn't much of any on the diff itself, although upon closer inspection, I have seen a trace. I'm guessing the only place oil is gonna come from is the yoke seal. Any other possibilities? I've read that it's no small task to DIY. Help?
Thanks...
Eric
Thread Starter
Senior Member
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 629
Likes: 0
From: RVA
Car: 89RS,89TBI FB, 91Z28, 89TPI FORMULA
Engine: 357 SBC TPI
Transmission: World Class T-5 (for now)
Axle/Gears: Strange 12-bolt 3.73
I searched for a while and found a couple things to check, although it turns out none of them had any relavence to my situation.
The old steel shaft slid back in just fine, leading me to think the bearing or bushing was not the culprit. The spline count is the same between both shafts.
I mentioned the new shaft had a rust issue. Turns out it had a rough patch (3 or 4 splines) that needed some gentle sanding (220g). I also used a tiny screwdriver to etch the space between the splines to get rid of the decay. A THOROUGH cleaning and a finger test confirned a much smoother mating surface. Finally I attempted insertion (sexy, isn't it?) and it slid in part way with only a little coaxing. I didn't try too hard because my car is on jackstands sans the track bar/brace/sway bar...the 3500lb swaying 9 inches above my body was disconcerting enough for me to wait until the bars are attached again.
Still need some help with the drip from the diff though.....
The old steel shaft slid back in just fine, leading me to think the bearing or bushing was not the culprit. The spline count is the same between both shafts.
I mentioned the new shaft had a rust issue. Turns out it had a rough patch (3 or 4 splines) that needed some gentle sanding (220g). I also used a tiny screwdriver to etch the space between the splines to get rid of the decay. A THOROUGH cleaning and a finger test confirned a much smoother mating surface. Finally I attempted insertion (sexy, isn't it?) and it slid in part way with only a little coaxing. I didn't try too hard because my car is on jackstands sans the track bar/brace/sway bar...the 3500lb swaying 9 inches above my body was disconcerting enough for me to wait until the bars are attached again.
Still need some help with the drip from the diff though.....
Last edited by BOSS 357; Apr 22, 2006 at 09:16 PM.
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