I recently converted the car over to a manual (700r4 to t-56). Spohn crossmember, TA, etc. I'm still running the stock prom but I'm not sure if it would matter. I'm running a poly mount on the torque arm and a poly trans mount. I'm still using the old stock rubber engine mounts. The engine hung on the two mounts unsupported during the install but it drives fine under throttle so I'm guessing the engine mounts are fine.

When I engage first gear or reverse the car shakes like no other but it stops as soon as the clutch is fully engaged. It also makes a weird knocking sound around tight corners at full lock, like in parking lots, etc. I’m not sure what’s hitting what but something has to be hitting something and it wasn't happening before the swap. When the weight of the car shifts forward/back there’s a squeak that comes from under the car like when I swap from engine braking to acceleration.

I'm not sure if everything is related but if anyone has any advice it's more than welcome.

 

the shuddering sounds like you have a nasty clutch chatter problem. This is caused by the clutch plate not engaging squarely on the flywheel. Make sure the pinion angle is correct and all the hydraulics are in good working order.

 

I would like to think that it's not chatter. I bought everything new specifically to avoid things like this

Spec stage 3 clutch, Centerforce billet steel flywheel, and new hydraulics from TPI parts. I’m running 4th gen pedals if it makes a difference.

It's possible that oil is getting onto the flywheel but I remember this happening pretty much from day 1. It is possible that pinion angle is off (the angle between the TA and the DS, correct?) but I don’t see how that would cause chatter?

 

With everything new and matched, I would agree that it is probably not clutch chatter. The pinion angle will cause wheel hop which could be felt like chatter if it isn't that severe.

 

The knocking is MUCH worse in reverse than it is in 1st. Any reason why this would matter?