Rear Diff Griddle
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Junior Member
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 88
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From: Minocqua, WI
Car: 1989 Camaro RS
Engine: TBI 350 - Approx 300hp
Transmission: 700R4 (Soon to be Built)
Axle/Gears: 3.73's & Eaton Posi
Rear Diff Griddle
I am thinking about getting a rear diff griddle. I have an 89 RS. I recently put and eaton posi and 3.73's in there and i was interested in that diff cover with the bearing compressing bolts. I was wondering if anyone has installed them, and how easy they are to install and what is a good brand?
Joined: Aug 1999
Posts: 19,282
Likes: 103
From: Lawrence, KS
Car: Met. Silver 85 IROC/Sold
Engine: 350 HO Deluxe (350ci/330hp)
Transmission: T-5 (Non-WC)
Axle/Gears: Limited Slip 3.23's
Member
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 393
Likes: 0
From: Central Alberta,Canada
Car: 88 Iroc Vert/ 1980 Z28
Engine: 305 TPI/ 350
Transmission: 700R4/ TH350
Axle/Gears: 2.73posi/ 3.08 Open
There is a Group Purchase on MAC products through FASTTOYS.NET
Check out the GP board it ends this FRIDAY the 13
The regular Price for there diff cover is $129 But it's cheaper in the GP Message me for the price. If we post the prices publicly we won't get the discount. It's cheaper than the SUMMIT one.
Check out the GP board it ends this FRIDAY the 13
The regular Price for there diff cover is $129 But it's cheaper in the GP Message me for the price. If we post the prices publicly we won't get the discount. It's cheaper than the SUMMIT one.
Member
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 104
Likes: 0
From: san antonio tx
Car: 83' Camaro, 88' TPI 350 Firebird
Engine: 383
Transmission: th350
Axle/Gears: 12 bolt w/ 5.13s or 4.56s
Do they make rear end girdle for the Austrailian rear end in my 88 Formula 350? Or just for the 7.5".
Joined: Aug 1999
Posts: 19,282
Likes: 103
From: Lawrence, KS
Car: Met. Silver 85 IROC/Sold
Engine: 350 HO Deluxe (350ci/330hp)
Transmission: T-5 (Non-WC)
Axle/Gears: Limited Slip 3.23's
There are a couple of articles in the tech section on beefing up the 10-bolt.
Brian, check the following link:
Rear End Girdles
JamesC
Brian, check the following link:
Rear End Girdles
JamesC
Last edited by JamesC; Oct 11, 2006 at 03:31 PM.
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iTrader: (1)
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 10,763
Likes: 4
From: Calgary, AB, Canada
Car: 1982 Trans-Am
Engine: 355 w/ ported 416s
Transmission: T10, hurst shifter
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt, true-trac, 3.73
haha, Pat, you beat me to it 
I have the summit one as well. It was $139, so that group purchase sounds pretty good, assuming it has similar specs (1/2" thick, sturdy aluminum, etc)
Little tip - don't bother using a gasket, it'll just leak. Use a bead of RTV. Make sure you don't tighten those preload studs too much, just a teeny bit of preload. They come into their own once the rear tries to flex.
I think you're right on the center section being cast iron, compared to steel tubes. I welded my tubes, but didn't do a very good job. You can use a stick welder, and some "weld all" rods, or high nickel cast iron welding rods to do it. I think I just used E6013 rods, and did a pretty **** poor job of it. When people say "oh yea it's only held on with two measly spot welds", I have to wonder if those people have ever seen those two "measly" spot welds. They're HUGE. I welded it as a feel good thing.
oh, you can also get main caps studs to strengthen your rear end. All these things do not require disassembly. The most crucial part of beefing a rear IMHO is the solid pinion spacer, which does require disassembly.

I have the summit one as well. It was $139, so that group purchase sounds pretty good, assuming it has similar specs (1/2" thick, sturdy aluminum, etc)
Little tip - don't bother using a gasket, it'll just leak. Use a bead of RTV. Make sure you don't tighten those preload studs too much, just a teeny bit of preload. They come into their own once the rear tries to flex.
I think you're right on the center section being cast iron, compared to steel tubes. I welded my tubes, but didn't do a very good job. You can use a stick welder, and some "weld all" rods, or high nickel cast iron welding rods to do it. I think I just used E6013 rods, and did a pretty **** poor job of it. When people say "oh yea it's only held on with two measly spot welds", I have to wonder if those people have ever seen those two "measly" spot welds. They're HUGE. I welded it as a feel good thing.
oh, you can also get main caps studs to strengthen your rear end. All these things do not require disassembly. The most crucial part of beefing a rear IMHO is the solid pinion spacer, which does require disassembly.
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Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 439
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From: Detroit Suburbs
Car: 87 IROC
Engine: 5.3L
Transmission: Jerico
Axle/Gears: Aluminum 8.6 w/ T2R
Don't weld your axle tubes to the carrier. It weakens the metal and creates a stress riser. Also, since our cars have a torque arm the axle tubes only carry torque during braking. In other words, no chance of twisting an axle tube during a launch.
Supreme Member
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 10,763
Likes: 4
From: Calgary, AB, Canada
Car: 1982 Trans-Am
Engine: 355 w/ ported 416s
Transmission: T10, hurst shifter
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt, true-trac, 3.73
Also, since our cars have a torque arm the axle tubes only carry torque during braking. In other words, no chance of twisting an axle tube during a launch
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