broke crossmember bolts
broke crossmember bolts
Im new here but im having a little truble with my crossmember bolts they wouldnt break loose i sprayed them with penitrating oil and i put the impact to it did'nt work i took a braker bar snaped the passenger side then went to the driver side the front one came out but not easy then went back to the pass. side broke the back bolt off then i said screww it and tryed the driverside and boke that one
so any ways i have 2 broken bolts on the pass side and 1 on drver side.
so i drilled out the drivers side and tryed a easy-out didnt work then i decided to drill out all the way drilled half into the threads off the bolt and nut and still wouldnt come out drilled it out a little more then then hit it with a little punch finaly started moving and finaly came out then tryed it to the othere side its not working as nice.
so i was wondering if it would be fine if was to drill out the 4 old welded in rusted nut compleatly and drill out 4 holes on the othere side of the flore so i could drop in a new bolt and nut and youse a socket wrench to hold it.
If anyone has any info or advice
so any ways i have 2 broken bolts on the pass side and 1 on drver side. so i drilled out the drivers side and tryed a easy-out didnt work then i decided to drill out all the way drilled half into the threads off the bolt and nut and still wouldnt come out drilled it out a little more then then hit it with a little punch finaly started moving and finaly came out then tryed it to the othere side its not working as nice.
so i was wondering if it would be fine if was to drill out the 4 old welded in rusted nut compleatly and drill out 4 holes on the othere side of the flore so i could drop in a new bolt and nut and youse a socket wrench to hold it.
If anyone has any info or advice
Welcome aboard!! Give this a shot, if you have access to these tools. Center punch and drill working up to the correct size bit for 7/16-20 tap. Tap with some type of lubricant and clean out shaving as necessary from the tap. Purchase as many grade 8 bolts as needed, then reattach cross member.
i already tryed it sens it wouldnt come out with the easy out i just drilled all the way but i got a little croked drilleing out half the threads of the nut
i was just wondering too if i could just do a bigger thread and bolt size and if the nut thats wellded to the frame will take it
thanks for the info
i was just wondering too if i could just do a bigger thread and bolt size and if the nut thats wellded to the frame will take it
thanks for the info
Supreme Member
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 10,763
Likes: 4
From: Calgary, AB, Canada
Car: 1982 Trans-Am
Engine: 355 w/ ported 416s
Transmission: T10, hurst shifter
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt, true-trac, 3.73
Join the club!
That's a notorious problem with these cars. The "nut" that you're going into, is just a cheesy little SOFT piece of metal, pressed into the frame rail. You Have to drill out your bolts, and drill and tap up a size, and you don't have any material left. I tried doing it to 7/16" and there wasn't any meat left.
I ended up getting some 3/8"-nc socket capscrews, 1- 1 1/4" long and some gr8 flange nuts. Drill out those holes. Using a telescoping magnet, drop the capscrews in from the top, use the water drain hole in the frame. Once you drop the bolts in from the top, align the cross member, and just get the nuts started. Once they start to get tension, it'll hold the head of the bolt down onto that old nut in the frame rail, and you can just tighten the nut. Worked for me.
That's a notorious problem with these cars. The "nut" that you're going into, is just a cheesy little SOFT piece of metal, pressed into the frame rail. You Have to drill out your bolts, and drill and tap up a size, and you don't have any material left. I tried doing it to 7/16" and there wasn't any meat left.
I ended up getting some 3/8"-nc socket capscrews, 1- 1 1/4" long and some gr8 flange nuts. Drill out those holes. Using a telescoping magnet, drop the capscrews in from the top, use the water drain hole in the frame. Once you drop the bolts in from the top, align the cross member, and just get the nuts started. Once they start to get tension, it'll hold the head of the bolt down onto that old nut in the frame rail, and you can just tighten the nut. Worked for me.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
UltRoadWarrior9
Transmissions and Drivetrain
3
Sep 2, 2015 08:24 PM




