Converted to Ford 9" w/ Ford brakes, question?
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Joined: Jul 2000
Posts: 580
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From: Charlotte, NC
Car: 1989 Camaro RS
Engine: 355 mildly modified
Transmission: 700R4 fully modified
Converted to Ford 9" w/ Ford brakes, question?
I just converted my old 10 bolt rear axle to a ford 9". As part of the package I picked up a set of 11" ford drum brakes (they look massive sitting in the stock wheels). I tried hooking up my stock brake lines to the new units, but it doesn't look like it'll work. I picked up some 3/16" line from the auto part store and was hoping to adapt them into the regular t-block line that the car had on it (there was so much grease under there not a lot of the stuff was rusted together). Anyone know what the proper adapter is that I need from the part store?
Thanks, Mike
Thanks, Mike
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Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 17,262
Likes: 168
From: 51°N 114°W, 3500'
Car: 87 IROC L98
Engine: 588 Alcohol BBC
Transmission: Powerglide
Axle/Gears: Ford 9"/31 spline spool/4.86
I ran 3/16" lines from both wheel cylinders to a rear flex hose from an 82 or 83 third gen. Before they switched to the metric lines. The 3/16" lines fit into the tee fitting fine. I then located a metric adapter from a local parts store to convert the metric, bubble flare, hard line running down the frame to the inverted flare fitting on the end of the brake hose. I have no idea what the part number or size is. Try www.napaonline.com and look for metric brake line adapters.
As for the 9" brakes, there are many different drums available that will fit. Normally the drums have huge cooling fins which add a lot of weight. I went to the auto parts store and looked until I found a drum that didn't have the large cooling fins. That was years ago and I have no idea what model it was for.
You're aware that Ford uses 5 on 4-1/2" bolt pattern so you'll need a Ford bolt pattern rim or an aftermarket rim with dual bolt pattern.
As for the 9" brakes, there are many different drums available that will fit. Normally the drums have huge cooling fins which add a lot of weight. I went to the auto parts store and looked until I found a drum that didn't have the large cooling fins. That was years ago and I have no idea what model it was for.
You're aware that Ford uses 5 on 4-1/2" bolt pattern so you'll need a Ford bolt pattern rim or an aftermarket rim with dual bolt pattern.
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Jul 2000
Posts: 580
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From: Charlotte, NC
Car: 1989 Camaro RS
Engine: 355 mildly modified
Transmission: 700R4 fully modified
Thanks!
I got the 3/16" line, I'll see if I can't pick up the 82 or 83 T fitting tommorow.
I ordered the whole rear assembly from Danny Miller's Rear Gears. They threw in the set of brakes and redrilled the drums so I could run my standard wheel. I'm pretty impressed with their service.
Three other questions though:
1. Bolts they supplied for the torque arm bracket are too large in diameter. What if I put back in my old torque arm bolts (there would be a little bit of slack between the bolt and the tube for the torque arm). I'm thinking that that amount of slack my shock the rear?
2. Rear sway arm? Obviously, with the diamter of the rear housing axle tubes, the stock sway bar won't bolt up with the hardware already on the car. Can I just sort of leave it hanging there and drive the car around without it bolted up? I know I can drive the car w/o the rear sway bar, but any potential damage from leaving it dangling there?
3. Connection of the parking brake lines. Would the stock cables bolt up to the ford drum brakes or do I really need to get some kind of kit to connect everything up?
Thanks for all the help!
Mike
I got the 3/16" line, I'll see if I can't pick up the 82 or 83 T fitting tommorow.
I ordered the whole rear assembly from Danny Miller's Rear Gears. They threw in the set of brakes and redrilled the drums so I could run my standard wheel. I'm pretty impressed with their service.
Three other questions though:
1. Bolts they supplied for the torque arm bracket are too large in diameter. What if I put back in my old torque arm bolts (there would be a little bit of slack between the bolt and the tube for the torque arm). I'm thinking that that amount of slack my shock the rear?
2. Rear sway arm? Obviously, with the diamter of the rear housing axle tubes, the stock sway bar won't bolt up with the hardware already on the car. Can I just sort of leave it hanging there and drive the car around without it bolted up? I know I can drive the car w/o the rear sway bar, but any potential damage from leaving it dangling there?
3. Connection of the parking brake lines. Would the stock cables bolt up to the ford drum brakes or do I really need to get some kind of kit to connect everything up?
Thanks for all the help!
Mike
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Posts: 13,622
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From: Orland Park, IL
Car: 1984 Z28
Engine: SLOW carbed ls
Transmission: TH400 with brake, 8" PTC converter
Axle/Gears: moser 9" 4.11
skip the parking brake with an automatic unless you really want to spend the cash on a kit for them. The rear sway bar, get some 3" heavy duty exhaust clamps and use them, you will have to ovalize the factory lower mount that goes around the sway bar bushing 1/8" on either size to go from the stock 2.5" width to the new 3" ford axle tube size.
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Jul 2000
Posts: 580
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From: Charlotte, NC
Car: 1989 Camaro RS
Engine: 355 mildly modified
Transmission: 700R4 fully modified
I have the feeling this is a "know it when I see it" type deal, but ovalize the clamp? You mean just stretch it so it'll fit to the 3" exhaust clamp?
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From: Northern CA.
Car: '82 Z28
Engine: 350
Transmission: TH400 4,000 stall
Axle/Gears: Currie 9", 4.56 gears
That's what I ended up doing. Took a 5 lb hammer and beat on the arch till it spread out the holes enough to slip over the 3 inch exhaust clamp studs. Had to make a couple of spacers though because the sway bar was hitting on the axle housing.
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Jul 2000
Posts: 580
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From: Charlotte, NC
Car: 1989 Camaro RS
Engine: 355 mildly modified
Transmission: 700R4 fully modified
Alright guys, I got everything bolted up. I still need to get some fuel line to put around the brake lines so that I can clamp everything to the axle tube with some hose clamps. I also need to bleed the brakes now.
Driveshaft Question: I heard that the driveshaft would be long enough. I looked at mine just real quick and it looks like it sticks out (with all of the wheels sitting on the ground) an additional 3/4" or so. Is there enough driveshaft left on the tranny output shaft or do I need to get a driveshaft cut? Any ideas on what conversion ujoint and straps I'll need? I forgot to measure the length of the u-joint carriers on the yoke, figuring everything was pretty well standard. My u-joint looks like it would have fit in pretty well but it wasn't the right diameter. Any partnumbers for these things?
Thanks everyone!
Mike
Driveshaft Question: I heard that the driveshaft would be long enough. I looked at mine just real quick and it looks like it sticks out (with all of the wheels sitting on the ground) an additional 3/4" or so. Is there enough driveshaft left on the tranny output shaft or do I need to get a driveshaft cut? Any ideas on what conversion ujoint and straps I'll need? I forgot to measure the length of the u-joint carriers on the yoke, figuring everything was pretty well standard. My u-joint looks like it would have fit in pretty well but it wasn't the right diameter. Any partnumbers for these things?
Thanks everyone!
Mike
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Joined: Apr 2000
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From: Northern CA.
Car: '82 Z28
Engine: 350
Transmission: TH400 4,000 stall
Axle/Gears: Currie 9", 4.56 gears
I forget the part number for mine... Look up what u-joint the Ford end would take and then look up a stock u-joint for your driveshaft. Take those two types and look up the conversion joint or go to your local auto parts place.
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Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 17,262
Likes: 168
From: 51°N 114°W, 3500'
Car: 87 IROC L98
Engine: 588 Alcohol BBC
Transmission: Powerglide
Axle/Gears: Ford 9"/31 spline spool/4.86
Push the driveshaft into the tranny all the way. Pull it back out 1". That's the best position it should be. 1/4" in or out from there is allowed.
There's different length Ford yokes. If yours is too short or long, see if you can find a different yoke.
As for the u-joint, if your driveshaft is stock then you'll know what u-joint it takes from the parts catalogs. Probably a 3R. Take the diff yoke to the parts store and have them decide what u-joint it takes. Buy the conversion u-joint.
There's different length Ford yokes. If yours is too short or long, see if you can find a different yoke.
As for the u-joint, if your driveshaft is stock then you'll know what u-joint it takes from the parts catalogs. Probably a 3R. Take the diff yoke to the parts store and have them decide what u-joint it takes. Buy the conversion u-joint.
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