Quick Change Rearend?
Thread Starter
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 147
Likes: 16
From: Covington, Va
Car: 1989 RS
Engine: LO3 5.0L
Transmission: 700r4
Axle/Gears: 10b 2.73
Quick Change Rearend?
does anyone know what brands of quick change rearends are out there and if anyone makes the stuff to put them in a 3rd gen? i'm thinkin about using one in my 84 to make it good for use in dragracing and maybe roadcoarse/salt flat use. maybe i'm dreaming, but i just want a versitile, all purpose car....
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Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 17,263
Likes: 168
From: 51°N 114°W, 3500'
Car: 87 IROC L98
Engine: 588 Alcohol BBC
Transmission: Powerglide
Axle/Gears: Ford 9"/31 spline spool/4.86
Re: Quick Change Rearend?
Closest thing you're going to find for a third gen that could be considered a quick change is a Ford 9".
The typical quick change diff commonly found in old Tee roadsters or Outlaw dirt track cars isn't going to easily fit. You would have to do a complete custom install. These old diffs also used straight cut gears. Although strong, they're also very noisy.
I'm assuming you're looking for something like this. Not exactly cheap.
http://www.speedwaymotors.com/p/5062...-Rear-End.html
http://www.pitstopusa.com/SearchResu...CategoryID=955
The typical quick change diff commonly found in old Tee roadsters or Outlaw dirt track cars isn't going to easily fit. You would have to do a complete custom install. These old diffs also used straight cut gears. Although strong, they're also very noisy.
I'm assuming you're looking for something like this. Not exactly cheap.
http://www.speedwaymotors.com/p/5062...-Rear-End.html
http://www.pitstopusa.com/SearchResu...CategoryID=955
Thread Starter
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 147
Likes: 16
From: Covington, Va
Car: 1989 RS
Engine: LO3 5.0L
Transmission: 700r4
Axle/Gears: 10b 2.73
Re: Quick Change Rearend?
well, the richmond unit w/ the 4.11's for $1500 is right in line w/ the Currie 9 bolt in unit. and i can buy/fab up the majority of the brackets. if the center section is aluminum, i can have a buddy of mine tig weld the torque arm brackets to the "chunk" and be up and runnin. thanks for the info man, i'll definatly think its an option now.
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