Thinking of replacing my low mileage WC T-5, with a G-Force T-5. Anyone have experience with this trans or company???


Thanks

 

I have a world class housing full of G-force guts. It's impressive to look at and was expensive as hell!! I still haven't run it (I was overseas for a while) but it should be on the road before year's end.

I did this instead of a Tremec TKO swap because I didn't have to buy anything else to put it in. No special adapters; just a T5 replacement!!

 

One less problem to deal with when swapping stuff, plus I like the five speed. Been checking out some of there stuff, T-5 can be built to handle 600 Hp. Like you said, Bolt right in..

 

Search is your friend.

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/afte...-standing.html

 

Stop drinking the kool-aid. T5's barely handle 300 hp. At 600 HP, the case would flex and snap a couple teeth off the gears if you ever got any traction. That 600 HP rating is with a stock slipping clutch and street tires on a wet road. I'd believe 400 HP before I believe 600.

 

i have one.. good so far.. times in the sig.. hopin to throw down 10's with this trans..

kevin91Z, g-force makes an upgraded case with thicker walls and what not.. i have that too..

 

All the money spent on a T5 is like paying for life support with a 0% chance of recovery.

Even a bone stock WC T5 will take some pretty serious abuse, for a period of time. (if you search under my name you'll find how I know) The high dollar parts just extend that period of time, but they don't stop it from failure. The upgraded cases and straight cut gears are an improvement, but the fact remains that there is not enough material between the gears, and w/o going to larger gears sets and a different case(thus a completely differently designed trans) there is not enough material to stop case flex.

Point being that no matter how much money you spend on a T5 it will break behind high power, it's just a matter of when.

- miy sig has an awesome quote about T5's....

 

Good luck with G force. I ordered their gear kit and it was on back order for 8 months. I finally quit calling. Fortunately they don't hit your credit card until they ship, if they ever do. The war has given them a bunch of DOD contracts machining parts for Apaches and Blackhawks and stuff. Their not very interested in us little guys right now.

 

just like VFN fiberglass.. they dont manufacture anything in carbon fiber anymore because of the war..

 

So somebody has seen the case is it really worth its salt or what? Do you have any pics of it by chance?

 

all i can say is that its holding up so far.. has about 3k of strict abuse.. 5k clutch dumps, 5500 clutch dumps, spinnin drag radials, spinnin slicks.. works just as good as it did when i first got it.. nice faint whine(when i actually hear it over my obnoxiously loud exhaust) decent whine on deceleration.. sorry no pics.. "looks" just like a regular trans.. i figured, no need for pictures since it looks stock..

 

I've heard of numerous reports of problems with the G-force parts in the american iron series (road racing) these guys rarely make more than 350 wheel hp but run the tranny non stop at high rpm's. This sorta confirms the case flex issues others have talked about. Drag racing only loads the tranny for a few seconds at a time, which the stronger gears help to fix, there just aren't any gears in the world that can take being ran for long periods with less than ideal tooth engagement.

 

The case is an additional 250 dollars, I think. It is starting to sound like this would not bo a good option. But as much as I have in this thing, I was tying to get something reliable that would not cause problems. Maybe a Richmond 6 from SCPC..

http://www.sdparts.com/product/X2450...llhousing.aspx

 

Ok not to beat a dead horse or be a **** here but if it looks just like a stock case is it really worth it? I was under the assumption that it would be visibly different enough (beefier) to warrent the expendature

 

i have no idea what a stock case and a upgraded case have for differences.. you have to send them a core to be rebuilt so i cant compare the 2.. but i gotta say, that bastard is no lightweight.. probably pushin around 100lbs..

 

stock T5 weighs around 75 w/o fluid, so by chest press guesstimate, you're not far off.

 

My completely stock WC T5's all took my 5200+ clutch dumps. 1.66-1.69 60ft's on dr's in a 4001# car. 5200rpm, when the last yellow flashes stand on the go pedal and slip your foot of the clutch, 2nd, 3rd, 4th clutchless shifts. Never broke one in 1st, all lasted about 5000 miles. - They break in 3rd gear. 3rd is in the center of the case, thus is the most prone to cause flex. I never even broke one during a shift, it was always right around 5600 in 3rd under power. One of my 3 even had the upgraded main shaft, I believe it lasted about an extra 1k miles over the rest. The straight cut gears sets would help considerably as they won't "push" away from each other as helical gears do, but they will still cause some flex, thus causing excessive wear, thus at some point it will go boom, just not as soon. When it breaks, you'll have very little that can be saved.
- Spend the money on another trans that is rated for the power. TKO's or built T56's for street friendly, various 4-speeds for race oriented rides.

 

ok ok, i actually remember what happened.. i only sent them the tail housing, and the shifter rods and forks.. they supplied the rest.. sooo, i do have an upgraded case.. my dad sold the case w/ all the gears to a friend.. IIRC, the g-force box weight was around high 90's..
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The car is basically going to be a street car and show, so my logic money over need. If a T-5 can be built to handle 410 ft/lbs to 425 ft/lbs, It becomes hard to spending thousands on a new trans. I ordered the trans I have now new from my local Chevy dealer, the trans has less than 4000 miles on it.

 

Yea, I'd still have to watch someone do a clutchless shift to believe it... I just can't comprehend how it'd be done. Even with popeye arms i'd bend my shift forks before pulling my car out of gear... Unless I let off the throttle, but then, what's the point there? I'd rather keep my foot on the gas, and just play with the clutch.

 

when my clutch was not fully disengaging, it was like hitting a wall on the shift.. my hand would slip off the T-handle before i got it in gear

 

there are two simple ways to do a WOT clutchless shift with an unaltered stock trans; 1) Set your rev limiter right at your shift point. The motor is twisting up, thus the slider is loaded to the gear. The moment the engine taps the limiter, it unloads the slider and you can drop into the next gear. 2) Shift above your peak. If you turn it up a bit past it's peak there is a moment where the driveline almost "freewheels" from the engine, thus the slider is unloaded and will drop into the next gear. My 355 made it's peak power right around 6800, but I turned it 72-7600 in low, and usually around 7k in 2nd and 3rd.

If you can do it correctly it is actually easier on the trans, since you don't shock it with the clutch. ask Dans87GTA, he's been in the car with me several times

- My M22 in the old camaro and the chrysler 23 spline box that replaced it had no syncros and had every other tooth ground off the sliders and the engagement teeth on the gears. Slick-shifted up great, but you had to double clutch to downshift. This way much like dog ring gears that you see aftermarket for later model trans. Factory gears on later trans aren't heavy enough to withstand this method.

Clutcless shift at partial throttle is very simple. You just have to find the right rpm vs the amount of throttle you are using. At some point there is a slight freewheel of the engine speed vs the driveline speed and it will drop right into the next gear.

 

As I've said a million times, "If you can't afford to do it right the first time, can you afford to do it again?" If you need something to get you by cheap, then just drop a stock T5 in. Save your money and by a TKO or a built T56. Then IF you hurt something it will be repairable fairly cheap. When the T5 breaks 98% of the time there is little that can be saved, thus you need a whole other trans, so now you're getting well past the cost of a decent trans.

The only reason I messed with a T5 was because I had 3 freebies, thus breaking them ment nothing.

 

As much money as I have in this thing, putting more money in it is not the problem. Even looking into a jerico 4 speed, and you can not tell this one is junk Again for a street car with BFG KDW on it, no slicks, Centerforce clutch it is a street car, or will be. But I also like to use quality and dependable parts...