what is it, chevy 3-5 in/lbs,alldata new 24-32 in/lbs used 4-18in/lbs

i'm reading up to 55in/lbs,rotational @45iin/lbs, do i need to pull it and redo it? put new bearings on

 

Are you sure Chevy didn't say 3-5 ft-lbs?

 

yep in/lbs

 

Something in the range of 15-18 in-lbs for used bearings and 20-25 in-lbs for new bearings, is what virtually all rears need (who goes to all the work of doing that job, and then puts together a rear with USED bearings, anyway? ). Since the bearings are all pretty much similar, it doesn't matter if it's a 7½" 10-bolt, 12-bolt, Chrysler 9¼", 8½" 10-bolt, etc. etc. etc.; that spec is useful for any of them.

I'd rather have them set up a little on the tight side, than loose. That said, anything much more than 36 in-lbs (3 ft-lbs) is likely to be too tight. There will simply be too much load on the bearings. So if you've got 45 in-lbs, then yes, I'd suggest re-doing it.

While you're at it, I'd also suggest putting in a solid pinion spacer instead of a crush sleeve. http://store.summitracing.com/partde...art=RAT%2D4111

 

Where do you find an in/lb torque wrench. I've checked lots of stores and couldn't locate one. I believe you want a dial style and not a clicker, correct?

 

That's right.
I just made a post in the aftermarket product board asking that same question. There are a few sources, but bring your cheque book... (and a kidney)

 

I got a PDF from a differental maker like MOser or Currie at some point in time. On it, if we are talking about the 7.5/7.625 then its 12-15 NEW and 6-7 USED. That is in INCH-POUNDS. New meaning a new crush sleeve and used meaning one thats already ...well crushed. If its for any other diff, I probably got that info too. Hope this helps =)

 

its a MAC brand,has a dial with 2 pointers,anyway put it all together,and yes is a little too tight,but drive it for a hundred or so and look again,why can't a person find shim packs locally??

 

Perhaps because a person isn't turning over the right rocks??

You can find them at speed shops, drive line places, medium-duty truck (18-wheeler) service places, and such as that. Or, you can order them from Summit and have them at your doorstep in the morning.

New and used refer to the bearings, NOT to the crush sleeve. The bearings, which are the things you're actually preloading, do not care whether the crush sleeve has been crushed before or not. In fact, they don't care if the crush sleeve is there OR NOT; it just gives the nut something to tighten against. Without it, you'd have to do something like you do to front wheel bearings (exact same system except no crush sleeve), and use a cotter pin or something. In fact some old rear ends used to do that. The reason for using a solid spacer, is because with that, you don't have to stop tightening the nut when you reach the desired preload; instead, you can put a few hundred ft-lbs of torque on the nut if you want, because it tightens the bearings against the spacer along with shims selected to provide the proper bearing preload, instead of a crush sleeve.

 

Drive line places indeed. In my city of 1 million people we have one driveline place, which would stock rear end parts. All high perf parts shops would be able to order it from their distributor, which is just like getting it from summit.

Look for a tranny and axle place in the yellow pages. Or anything named "driveline". The place I go to deals mainly with 18 wheeler stuff, so when I brought in my 7.5" rear end (I couldn't get the carrier out), they laughed at me like I was a hobbit trying to drink a 2' tall beer or something. I swear the guy lifted the entire rear end up with one arm and used his free hand to pull out the carrier....

 

since the O'reillys,adavance,NAPA,and chevy were my local stops,no one seemed to help much,learned a valuable ($80) lesson thru all this,so not worried about pulling it back out again case for that in/lbs wrench in pic