I was just wondering is this worth it a 7.5'' with a full spool, strange 28 spline axles, welded axle tubes and a strong 7.5'' ring a pinion gear. and it has a c-clip eliminator kit. he wants $500 for it and says I have till tomorrow to give him an answer on it or he goes to the next guy in line. I have not run my car at the track yet this year after a bunch of changes to the motor for fear it will send and axle flying out the side of the car. heres my combo

83z
8pt cage
subframe connectors
gutted
stock 10bolt 3.42 gears tires are 26/10.5/15's
10 gallon fuel cell
holley black pump 1/2'' line from cell to regulator then -8 to carb
motor
11:1 388
ported dart iron eagles 230cc intake runners 64cc combustion 2.08in 1.60exh
I ported them, and flowed them myself I have flow # if you want.
port and gasket matched vic jr intake
crane solid tappet lift .518in .536exh .244in .256exh dur @.050 106lsa
1.6 full roller rockers
speed demon 850
accell super coil
accell dizzy
msd 6al box
hooker super comps
true duel 3" exhaust
th-350 trans
3500 stall
B&M shiftkit
B&M adjustable modulator

 

There is no "full spool" available for the 7.5". Only a mini spool.

 

I guess he lied to me then i'll pass on it

 

Just go to a 12 bolt or 9 inch then u wont have to worry down the road. My car only put down 312whp and 311wtq with a low tune and i still put on in my iroc. Next year I think with my new tune 12 botl with 3.73s it should put down around 340ish and probably run some 12.5's or so.

jay

 

jay_rich.... im not sure if the new 12 bolt will help u put down more HP at the wheels, a built 7.5" 10 bolt cant withstand about 400rwhp. this includes welded tubes,a good posi (auburn, eaton), strong gears, strange/moser 28spline axels, and a support cover, not to mention the kits for c clip elimination and better solid bearings from raytech etc. that can withstand 400rwhp. anything higher and a 12bolt/9bolt is required. there was an article done where they tested rwhp numbers that ppl thought they were getting at the wheels they dynoed the motor and got the power then put it in and did a rear wheel hp and they found that the numbers where off considerbably. u have to take into account that the larger rears require more hp/tq to operate this can considerably affect hp numbers at the wheels. our lil 7.5" 9 and 10 bolts hardly eat any power so by matching the rear to the motor optimal numbers can be achieved. i believe they said that sum cars with the 12bolt/9bolt ate up as much as 30-40hp over a 10bolt.

so i would think that if ur not making over 500crankhp i would stick to the 10bolt thats built correctly. otherwise u have to get the 12/9bolt.

camaronut79 i would pass on the rear. and i think your setup is just beyond the capabilites of the 10bolts power threashold. your head/cam combo is def a race car that will rev to prob 7000 and with ur 3500 stall i would def be looking into a beefed 9bolt

 

a 9" will eat more power, but a 12-bolt and 9-bolt are on par with our 10-bolt, in that respect. The 9-bolt is a pita to find anything for, thus is usually not worth the effort to find/build, especailly since it's still not as strong as a 12 bolt/dana 60/9".

C-clip elims don't really do anything to strengthen the rear, they're just an aid in axle retention(lessen the chance of it flying out).

They guy is deffintiely blowing smoke saying it has a full spool. - IMO, save your $ and by a reputable bolt-in 12-bolt or the strange S60. I don't like the extra power loss of a 9" when a dana is just as strong. If you need the ability to change gearing often, then go 9".

 

A 9" will eat only a little more power than a 12 bolt but a Dana 60 will eat a lot more power than a 9".

 

The Dana 60 is a brute of a rearend. With the 9.75" ring gear, it even makes the Ford 9" look small by comparison. While this makes them incredibly strong, it definitely takes more power to turn them. I can see why they were used behind the badass, hemi-powered Mopars back in the 60's and early 70's.

 

sry most of the time when i said 9bolt i ment 9".

still if ur at 400rwhp i would stick with a built 10bolt. otherwise a 9"/12bolt fabbed for our rear suspension would be better suit.

i saw an article on how to convert an 8.8" ford outa a 82-92 mustang with 31-33 spline axels to fit our cars. they said it would be stronger than a 12bolt and a stock 9" they only prob they said was the tubes where alil thin. but there are a BAJJILLION of these from stangs all over the place. might wanna look into that

 

Just how big of a diff does a street car need? I run a 9" in my race car and I abuse it more than the majority of TGO members ever will. I only run 31 spline Moser axles since that's a minimum requirement for the power level I'm at.