I don't know how many members start off their "Hi I'm new here" posts with a question.

I'm gonna give it a shot.

I have done my searching and lurking, I can't seem to find any solid answer for my question. I plan on asking year one which is who I am ordering my motor from but I figured experts are experts regardless of where you find them.

I am ordering a CT350PC1 from yearone I found a thread on here discussing the motor, but I am looking for a transmission adaptability answer, I have a freshly rebuilt T-56 (m-28)does anyone know what it is gonna take to get this thing to bolt up to that crate motor I'm ordering?

Any help would be appreciated, even if you just direct me to where the answer may ba and I'll find it myself.

Thanks in advance guys and gals, and nice meeting you all.

Josh
Josh

 

what did the t-56 come out of?

 

That would be kind of hard to figure out. I bought it from a local transmission rebuild shop. They sell em with a warrenty, I asked them for a M28-T56 transmission from a 1993, so I'm assuming it's the M28-T56 from an LT1 93'.

Thanks for the quick reply so far, maybe I'm getting somewhere.

Josh
Josh

 

if that crate motor convensional 350 then a LT1 style t-56 will bolt right up..just need bellhousing for that style transmission.

 

You can use a complete T-56 set up from an LT1. Flywheel, clutch, pressure plate and bell housing. All these parts must be from an LT1.

OR

You can use a T5 or 4spd set up with an adapter plate for the front of the T56 trans. This set up is the only way you can get an SFI bellhousing for the T56.

 

Well I appreciate the responses guys.

Now I don't have to wait for year one to call me back.

Well anyways, I see now what your saying as long as I get the bell housing from the same donor car as the T56 then everything should work out.

Well Thanks.

You all are probably gonna be seeing alot of me, I'm joining you guys after just leaving the "sport compact" scene. So this isn't all new to me, but most of it is.

I jumping right in neck deep with a motor/trans swap, complete interior tear down and rebuild. SO I guess we will see what I'm made of.

Thanks for the responses.

Also anyone have suggest on which t56 to go with the m28 or 29, I'm leaning towards 28 unless someone has some input.

Thanks again

Josh
Josh

 

I'll be honest, you're the first person I've ever seen use the "M28/M29" designation..... enlighten me - what does that refer to? the trans you want, since I'm assuming your motor will not be a Gen III/IV LS-series motor, is one from an LT1 car, or the retrofit one. if you're not getting horribly serious, just cruising, get the LT1-sourced model, because like the other guy said, the swap is easier. the retrofit one requires special parts you can't find in a junkyard. it'll bolt right up, and since you have a manual car already (you do, right?) it'll require nothing more than a day out of your life for swapping parts and bolting/un-bolting things. I wish you the best, you'll be happy with it.

and welcome - glad you came to your senses and got a REAL car. hehehehe.

 

M28 / M29 is just a designation for the gear ratios in the trans. I believe the M28 was only in the 93 camaros and have lower gear ratios for better acceleration.

There is a sticky in the FAQ board entitled "questions not normally covered for t-56 swap" something like that , and it is full of great info about wiring it up and pretty much anything you'll come across that you weren't expecting.

good luck with your swapping, and welcome to TGO.

 

Sorry I didnt get back to this sooner, but you know how it is when you start a project.

The guy before me answered it right though, the M28-29 designation is just a difference in gear ratios. I try and do all my research before I ask a question, I guess thats why I was being so specific.

Well thanks for the answers again guys and maybe gals. I do appreciate it. We have the interior stripped and are awaiting the funds to buy the crate motor, which should be early march at the latest.

If you guys have any tips/good reads that you think I should look into lemme know, I know I won't hesitate to ask if I need any help.

Thanks in advance.

Josh
Josh

 

You might want to look into the transmission further than just the gear ratios. I know the clutch setup is different on the 93 cars from the 94-97, but since the input shaft is the same length on the tranmission you should be able to use the 94-97 style bellhousing and clutch. But a buddy of mine that is a GM mechanic bought a tranny out of a 93 and is now trying to sell it. Something about the torque handling capability being lower than the other models. Honestly I don't have all the information to give you I just picked up one out of a 98 and plan on using a modular bellhousing

 

The 93 T56 is less desirable for gearing and strength purposes. Normally people search for a 94-97.

 

I've never driven a car with the 93 T56 but to me the ratios look more desirable. It has a lower 1st gear and a lower 6th gear. This should help with launching and make 6th more usable on the highway. Also the ratios are wider for 1-4 and closer for 5-6 compared to the 94+ model which I like personally, some don't. The 94-97 model is rated at 450ft/lbs and I believe the 93 is rated for 400ft/lbs.

93 T56

2.97 1st
.9
2.07 2nd
.64
1.43 3rd
.43
1.00 4th
.2
0.8 5th
.18
0.62 6th



94-97 T56

2.66 1st
.88
1.78 2nd
.48
1.30 3rd
.30
1.00 4th
.26
0.74 5th
.24
0.50 6th

 

search my thread on this topic. Its in the DRIVETRAIN section. I havent completed it yet, i still have to do some wiring, but you can probably figure it out.

My engine is a 2 peice Rear main seal, so i had to get a special flywheel for it.

It doesnt say in the specs, but i am guessing your engine is a 1 peice rear main seal. Im judging by the picture, but i would call yearone to confirm just incase.

If its a 1 peice RMS, its 100% swap over from the 1993 vehicle. If you dont have the vehicle, you can just buy used swap parts.

Otherwise, follow my instructions.

 

Hi can you pls tell me why the LT1 flywheel can not be used on 2 pc RMS?
I have a sbc 400(int ballanced) with 2pc and just bought the t56 from 95 ta, but seems that i also need special FW ?!

 

The bolt pattern is different. I think the hole in the center of the fly wheel may also be a different size.

 

oh sh...t
I`ll be glad for info where i can buy the propper one

thanks
peter

 

I bought a fidenza aluminum flywheel for mine. I bought it from ebay and it was alot cheaper. I think centerforce makes a steel one also.

 

VbMike nailed it. Different bolt pattern, and the crank is a different size, so the hole in the middle is also differently sized. It just wont fit.

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/tran...ap-thread.html

See post #38 for a visual.

Not to mention, the LT1 is externally balanced, if your engine is internally balanced, that will cause additional problems.

 

Actually a LT1 is internally balanced. A 400sbc is externally balanced from the factory. All sbc except the 400 are all internally balanced.

 

LT1's are externally balanced on the flywheel, have a look at one.

 

The LT1 is internally balanced.

However, when they changed to the 1-pc rear main seal, the crank flange had to be round. Because of the round crank flange, the last little bit of internal balance weight that used to be part of the flange (which is why it was odd-shaped), couldn't be physically on the flange any more; so they located that last little bit of internal weight on the flywheel or flex plate.

Just because your eyeball looks at it and it appears to be outside the oil pan, does not mean that it's "externally balanced". "Internal" vs "external" balance has NOTHING to do with which side of the rear main seal the balance weight is on.

The 400 however, IS externally balanced, because of the short rods. They made the rods short because they thought at the time that they didn't want to compromise the 400's ring package by either moving them up toward the top of the piston, or using narrower rings, or packing the rings closer together. So the pin had to be the same distance from the piston top as the 350 (1.56"), which is as far as they thought they could go with compressing the rings in the first place, meaning the rod had to be short. But then, with the shorter rod, there's not enough space when the piston is at BDC, to fit large enough counterweights between the bottom of the pistons and the center of the crank. The 400 crank CWs have to be "flat cut" to clear the pistons, which makes them too small and too light to completely counterblance the rods & pistons. THAT'S what "external balance" is all about; NOT the little bat-wing weight that the 1-pc RMS 305s and 350s (including the LT1) have. All that weight does, is mimic the rearmost "internal" balance weight that the 2-pc motors have.

To put the LT1 T-56 onto a 2-pc rear main seal motor with internal balance, you need Centerforce part # 700107, or equivalent. The stock LT1 flywheel will not work because it's for the smaller 1-pc RMS crank flange.

The "internal" vs "external" terminology does little in the world at large besides cause massive confusion in people who don't know what those terms actaully mean. It is best to avoid it whenever possible, for exactly the kind of reason on display in this post.

 

i guess that explains why my lt1 flywheel had a bunch of weight on the back of it. IF it was internally balanced and i have this flywheel for an externally balanced engine, i would think i would feel some vibrations, surprisingly i dont....

 

See what I mean? People who don't understand what "external balance" ACTUALLY means, get confused by the terminology.

Yes your LT1 flywheel has a weight on it. Yes it is "external" to the oil pan. NO it is NOT "externally balanced".

The LT1 is "internally balanced". It has the EXACT same crank counterweight arrangement as SBC (350, 327, 305, 262.5, 267) since 1967, EXCEPT FOR THE 400. However, since in 1987 they changed the shape of the flywheel flange on the crank, and that odd shape on the "large-journal" (and also the 400) crank that happens to be an INTERNAL counterweight mounted EXTERNALLY to the engine, could no longer be there since the flange had to become round, they moved that EXTERNALLY MOUNTED INTERNAL weight to the flywheel or flex plate.

Once again, what your eyeball sees as being "external" to the engine, whatever that might mean, is NOT the same thing as "external" balance.

The LT1 is INTERNALLY balanced by way of a weight mounted EXTERNAL to the physical perimeter of the engine.

Once again, this is why it is wise to avoid the terms "internal" and "external" balance; because people who don't understand about balancing, get confused by seeing that "internal" weight out there in plain sight.

 

great topic, thanks.
Do you have any idea who is producing an aluminium fw for 2 pc rms for t56?

how i can hook up my speedo to hawe normal readings?
thanks

peter

 

findanza makes one.. I have one..bought if off ebay alot cheaper than I found it anywhere else.

 

this one? http://store.summitracing.com/partde...1&autoview=sku


wow just found one on ebay for 325..... thanks

 

that looks like it. as long as that one is for the LT1 style T-56 then that is it. I think mine was alot less then that from ebay, but its been a while since I bought it.

 

any recomendations of clutches? i think i`ll need something strong for my sbc 400 but i`d like to have it lets say daily driven wich stage schould i take? 1 or 2?
(my engine: sbc 400, dart pro1-ported, lt1 intake, roller cam .050# 237/246 106 Lsa)

thx

 

Hey, I have no clue what flywheel would be best for me. I have a Chevy 396 that was the 71 block and it was bored to a 403 and i have a T-56 from a 97 Camaro. the engine puts out about 450 horsepower and god knows how much torque. idk how much id estimate around 400 lbs/ft. Any suggestions on a clutch flywheel setup?

Mike