Ok, about a year or so ago I tried buying the master and the slave by them selves and tried to bleed them once they were installed in the car, over and over we pumped and bled like you would do for the brakes, it never build pressure. We ended up buying the system already bled from a dealer. Now, we need it again for another camaro, but the dealer discontinued the pre bled assembly, so now Im going to have to buy the parts individually and attempt this bleeding thing again. Has anyone ran into this bleeding problem? What is the secret to bleeding the clutch? **If this has already been discussed then give me the link to the thread, thanks everyone!!!

 

The only suggestion I can really offer is to unbolt the slave from the bellhousing bracket and hold it at a 45 degree angle to where the bleeder screw is at the highest point. Due to gravity, the only way all the air will bleed out is if it can exit at the highest point. Also make sure to loosen the bleeder screw before having someone push the pedal down, otherwise you can end up overextending the piston inside the slave, which will cause the piston to pop out the end and break the slave cylinder. And of course, make sure to tighten the screw back up before your helper lets up on the pedal so you don't suck any air back in the system.

 

I just logged in for the first time in a couple of years for this same question. I pumped til my leg turned blue and nothing. I guess I'll try the unbolting method and see where that gets me.

 

If you hold the slave at 45* angle down and pump the rod by hand tell it's really hard to move works also.

 

Yeah, making sure the bleeder port is at the highest point really is important. I remember a buddy of mine was putting new brake calipers on his car one time, and he couldn't get the air out. Turned out he had the calipers on the wrong sides, and the bleeder screw was at the bottom of the caliper instead of the top. He probably went through over a quart of brake fluid and spent hours trying to bleed it properly. Once we swapped the calipers to the right sides to where the bleeder screws were at the top, he got a solid pedal in no time at all.

 

Try removing the slave cylinder from the bell housing and pushing the piston in and out - it is like reverse bleeding - don't open the bleeder screw but make sure the reservoir is full. I have used this method on lots of cars and it works well. I have done a number of f-body clutches and cylinders and some vettes, and even a couple imports and it has worked on them all.

 

The last method of taking the slave cylinder off and pumping the slave by hand sounds easy!! Has anyone had good luck with this and do you have the cap off up top while you do this and about how long does it take before you can bolt the thing back up ?? or how will you know it is fine to bolt back up? Thanks for help!!

 

Hi gtpro, This method works very well. About 6 to 10 strokes should be plenty, or just have a friend watch the resevor for air bubbles. When the bubbles stop you're finished. Dean.

 

Thanks for the quick reply! When you push the piston in wouldnt it overflow the reservoir if filled without the cap on ? Thanks again for the help!

 

If the slave is dry, no it won't overflow you'r only moving air, so you'r only
going to get bubbles. The fluid level will actually drop.

If the slave has some fluid in it, it will rise and drop with the stroke of the piston. If this is the case just don't fill the reservoir quite full. Also move the slave slowly, so you won't squirt fluid out of the reservoir. When you'r finished, then fill to the proper level. One other thing, never let the reservoir get to low during this procedure. Dean

 

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