Car shaking when releasing clutch in first only ?
09-18-2000, 01:43 PM
#1
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Car shaking when releasing clutch in first only ?
When the car is cold it shifts great from stop to first.After I drive for about 30 minutes and then stop, when i start in first and release the clutch the car shakes like hell.
Just replaced the clutch and pres plate and T.O.B. (fly wheel was re finished).
( NO fluid leakage at all present) New motor mounts Trans mount and bushing !
Any Ideas
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Fully restored 84 TA original factory spec (sucks) Mods when the kids grow up "Sigh" no money!
Just replaced the clutch and pres plate and T.O.B. (fly wheel was re finished).
( NO fluid leakage at all present) New motor mounts Trans mount and bushing !
Any Ideas
------------------
Fully restored 84 TA original factory spec (sucks) Mods when the kids grow up "Sigh" no money!
09-18-2000, 02:02 PM
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Clutch chatter? I had that right after I got a new clutch and machined flywheel.. What worked for me was launching from a slightly higher rpm.. I would do ~1300, but it chattered like a mug... ~1700-2000 works reeal well now.. Just don't take your time unclutching, and clutch wear should be minimal.. and you'll get a nice strong launch, too!
-Tesla
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91 T/A 305
STB, Airfoil, Hooker cat-back, pseudo-cold air to K&N, Accel coil, !cat, !smog pump.
300 lb*ft of rice churning power.
-Tesla
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91 T/A 305
STB, Airfoil, Hooker cat-back, pseudo-cold air to K&N, Accel coil, !cat, !smog pump.
300 lb*ft of rice churning power.
09-18-2000, 03:37 PM
#3
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If you have clutch chatter so soon after a new clutch there are a couple of possibilities.
1. Incompentent machine shop
2. Incompentent manufacting
3. Possible installation error causing warping of PP flange
4. Throw-out bearing installed incorrectly (if not installed correctly on the fork, it can bind at the end of the throw, then become c()cked and push crookedly)
5. Object (such as wires) between bellhousing and engine
6. Leakage (Probably not since you've checked)
Now, if it is the flywheel, it may not be the machine shop's fault. If you had a blue/hot spot on the flywheel then the metalurgy there has changed and will cause clutch chatter to be reoccuring even with resurfacing of the flywheel. This characteristic shows up highly when cars begin to do it after warm. You can try to "break in" the clutch by riding it around like that but that method usually fails..
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'84 Trans Am
Crate 350 - 4 bolt main, Holley 600 w/vac. secondaries now open element
T-5 - Stock with Zoom clutch and PP
[This message has been edited by 84FTA (edited September 18, 2000).]
1. Incompentent machine shop
2. Incompentent manufacting
3. Possible installation error causing warping of PP flange
4. Throw-out bearing installed incorrectly (if not installed correctly on the fork, it can bind at the end of the throw, then become c()cked and push crookedly)
5. Object (such as wires) between bellhousing and engine
6. Leakage (Probably not since you've checked)
Now, if it is the flywheel, it may not be the machine shop's fault. If you had a blue/hot spot on the flywheel then the metalurgy there has changed and will cause clutch chatter to be reoccuring even with resurfacing of the flywheel. This characteristic shows up highly when cars begin to do it after warm. You can try to "break in" the clutch by riding it around like that but that method usually fails..
------------------
'84 Trans Am
Crate 350 - 4 bolt main, Holley 600 w/vac. secondaries now open element
T-5 - Stock with Zoom clutch and PP
[This message has been edited by 84FTA (edited September 18, 2000).]
09-19-2000, 02:13 PM
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Probably. It's your best bet in most clutch chattering (the cause 95% of the time) cases especially if you did notice the discolorations.
------------------
'84 Trans Am
Crate 350 - 4 bolt main, Holley 600 w/vac. secondaries now open element
T-5 - Stock with Zoom clutch and PP
------------------
'84 Trans Am
Crate 350 - 4 bolt main, Holley 600 w/vac. secondaries now open element
T-5 - Stock with Zoom clutch and PP
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