I have a question for you guys about swapping a 4thgen part to a 3rdgen F-car, one I couldn't really find a yes/no answer for anywhere, though *I think* I know the answer from looking at the parts..

What I'm wondering about, is swapping a hydraulic clutch linkage setup from an LT1/T56 Camaro into my 3rdgen Camaro that has provisions for the T5 hydraulic setup.

Now, I've looked at the setup on my '97 Z28 (LT1/T56 car) and it *looks* like the whole setup (master, slave, hoses, etc) should swap right over, but the sticking point I'm at is this - On the T56/LT1 cars, the pushrod on the slave pushes the fork in the opposite direction that the 3rdgen T5 setup does (T5 setup pushes towards the rear, T56 pushes towards the front of the car).

On to my question...

Now, it looks like everything is otherwise the same, all the bolts in the same positions, etc... so can I just put the 4thgen LT1 hyrdo setup in my 3rdgen T5 car, and just tie the excess hose out of the way and have it all work? Or have I missed something here?

 

yes, the LT1 style setup will bolt right in, its what im using, and the braided line is nice too. The line is a bit longer, but no biggie just keep it away from hot things.

 

Exactly what I wanted to hear - I was thinking it would work, but thought I should throw it out there and see whats been done. Good to hear it does work!

Thanks <86TA>

 

oops, i did forget to mention that the eyelet on the masters pushrod is a little thinker, you may need to play with the clip/bushing to make it all work, no big deal though.

 

How so? Like... the 3rdgen pushrod is smaller than the 4thgen one would be? Thats not hard to fix.

 

I think it's the other way around. I believe the hole on the master cylinder is smaller than the stud on the 3rd gen clutch pedal. There is some kind of plastic bushing on the master cylinder that needs to be drilled out.

 

IIRC the hole in the eyelet has the same inside diameter, but the eyelet is thinker in width, so it sits farther out on the stud, follow? I ended up trimming down the little nylon bushing that goes in the eyelet so that it was just a loop, lining the inside of the eyelet, then used an "E" clip on the stud to hold it all together, no problems at all to date.

 

Meh, fabrication is not new to me, I can make that work

Might be a good opportunity to use one of those aircraft rod-ends I have laying around...

 

The other thing you will find, is the high engagement point on the pedal.
I shortened the master rod to fix that.
The car doesn't start to move until the pedal is 4" off the floor.