busted three out of four despite using a torch, bfh, and penetrating goo. I have a screw extractor, but from what I could see it's not too promising. My question is, if I have no luck will I be able to drive a short distance (less than a mile) with the one bolt and minimal support on the other side?
Thanks,
Dennis K

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88 Formula 350

 

Yeah, you should be ok for a short distance. The torque arm actually apllys an upward force to the rear of the tranny in most situations besides braking. I would take it very easy while driving it to get it the bolts drilled out. Good luck.

-Dave

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Better to keep one's mouth closed and be thought a fool, than to open
it and remove all doubt.(Mark Twain)
Homepage of VTCamaro/Arntzman
Need Wiring Diagrams??
darntz@vt.edu

 

Hey Dman, if this cheers you up- the first time my trans died, Lee Myles (chain store) rebuilt it. When their "special" died 2.5 years later, I dropped it down myself. Those guys stripped two of the crossmember bolt threads!

So at least you did it yourself, and it wasn't done by someone you paid. I still have to fix those. One I somehow got to tighten down; the other is hanging.


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-Tom P (Hot rodded 1986 Firebird 2.8l) from http://www.f-body.net/mailbag/3rd/3rd_mailbag.html message boards

 

I would at least put a vice-grip or two on it to be safe. If you have to brake hard, the crossmember will take a nosedive and something expensive.
To remove broken bolts, i like to MIG weld an oversize bolt to the piece...works (almost) every time.

 

Yeah, at least I got to break 'em myself for free. Came home from work with stomach flu, guess next step will be tomorrow. Is there such thing as a reverse extractor, meaning tightening the bolt so it will pop thru the other side?
Thanks,
Dennis K

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88 Formula 350

 

yeah i know what you're mean w/ the reverse extractor...i forget why but i went on a day long hunt for one like a year or 2 ago and i came up empty handed, so good luck...i dont think anyone makes one

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350, Comp 262, Edelbrock Performer intake 600 cfm carb and exhaust, headers

 

The square tapered type of extractor will work to some extent in the forward direction. But, if you broke the bolts off trying to get them out, why do you think they're go the other way?

You can either drill the bolts out and tap the nuts for the next larger size, or punch the nuts out of the frame. I did the latter to my donor car, thinking I'd use the nuts on the receiving car (the '82 didn't have the crossmember holes for the longer TH700). I ended up punching holes in the back of the frame so I could slide regular nuts & washers up to the new holes I drilled for the crossmember bolts and hold them with a box end wrench while I tightened the bolts. No problems in the year I've been driving it since.

I wouldn't recommend driving it without at least one bolt per side. Not sure how you'd get a vicegrip on it, either.

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82 Berlinetta, orig V-6 car. Rescued w/86 LG4/TH700R with all harnesses, sensors, ECM, etc. 2.73 open. Cat-back from '91 GTA, Accel HEI SuperCoil. AMSOIL syn lubes bumper-to-bumper. Daily driver, work-in-progress (LB9 w/ZZ3 cam, ported heads, exhaust, paint, etc.).
57 Bel Air, my 1st car. Currently 396 .030 over, Weiand Action+, Edelbrock 1901 Q-Jet, Jacobs Omnipack, 1-3/4" headers, TH400 w/TCI Sat Night Special conv & shift kit, 3.08 10-bolt, AMSOIL syn lubes bumper-to-bumper. Best 15.1 @ 5800' Bandimere. Daily driver while Camaro was being put together.

 

Uhhh, because my mechanical ability is outweighed only by my automotive inexperience? Seriously, I like the idea of using a regular nut/bolt combo, but how do I punch out the frame nuts?
Thanks
Dennis K

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88 Formula 350