I changed my oil and noticed my rear is leaking bad out the front of my 10 bolt. I assume i just need to replace a seal. I don't know much about the rearend, can i put the seal in without pulling anything out of the rear? I had redline oil in there when i had my richmond gears installed do you think i could of damaged my rear i don't know how much oil is still in there. So far no noises i have been driving my other car.

 

It's so simple a monkey could do it... All you do is take off all the bolts (10 :P). Then put a container right underneath the differential for the liquid to drain in. Then carefully pry off the bottom of the cover and let most of the fuid drain, then take it completely off. That's it! Scrape off the old gasket, throw on the new one, pour new gear oil in trough the top of the differential after removing the plug, and you're done!

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the rear is leaking from the front of the diff on to the driveshaft sorry i didn't make that clear.

 

Oh that's a whole 'nother story. Well you'll have to drain the fluid anyway. But I believe you have to take it apart so you can pull the yoke out and replace the seal. I think.. I dont know for sure. Maybe someone else will answer this for u.

 

i havn't looked yet but i think i just have to pull off the drive shaft and drain oil and then i think i should be able to pull the seal out and replace it without taking the diff apart or anything else.

 

Pull the driveshaft.
Remove big nut in the center of the where the driveshaft connected to the rear end and remove the yoke from the rear-end.
Pry the seal out.
Put the new seal in.
lube the seal with some diff. oil
Reinstall just like it came apart and torque down the nut until all the slack is gone from the pinion bearing.
reinstall the driveshaft and you should be ready to go.
P.S. change the fluid, it probably hasn't been changed in a while anyway.


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82 camaro--original steering wheel, brake/gas pedals, seats--everything else modified
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thanks i will do that tommorow.

 

you need to put a new crush sleeve in or if you use the old crush sleeve you will need to remember exacley how much torque it took to take the pinion nut off so when you re-install the nut you can torque it back down to what it was before...I personally recommend the new crush sleeve and then torquing the pinion nut back down to what the specs call for...it's a lot to!

Also, don't scratch the yoke up when you have it out. If you scratch or nick it you can cause the oil to leak around the seal. My 2000 GMC sierra had a oil leak the first 300 miles at the rear seal and they replaced the seal w/o replacing the crush sleeve and without checking the yoke for scratches...it was back in there a few weeks later with oil still spraying all over the under side of my truck. The replaced the yoke and crush sleeve and I had no more problems.

bottom line, it's pretty simple but you need to take extra care in getting the pinion nut torqued down properly and will probably require locking the brakes and someone holding the tires at the same time while you torque the nut down.

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1988 TA 300+hp 350 w/ TBI and Holley TB unit, Holley projection intake,
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2000 Kawasaki KX 125

 

You don't have to replace the crush sleeve under most circumstances. Normally, from the factory, or when people install new ones, the pinion bearing preload is set to the minimum spec, wich leaves the crush sleeve only slightly crushed. There usually is plenty more to go.

The secret to doing a pinion seal, is to tighten the pinion nut just a tad more than when it was taken off. You can always increase the preload a little, but you can't decrease it. GM says for quick service, mark the nut in relation to the pinion (threads). Then when you are all done, re-install the pinion nut and tighten all the way down untill the lines line back up, and tighten the nut 1/16" further. That will add approximatly 5"lbs of preload. Like I said, you can always go a little higher, but NEVER lower than where it was, or bearing failure is inevitable. And NEVER use an impact to run the pinion nut down.

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