when removing the stock brake pedal*auto* to swap for the manual pedals, is there an easy way to get to those bolts on the right side? Cables etc seem to get in the way and i cant get those pedals offf!! Damnit..anyone?

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Flowmaster 80 series, Random Technologies Cat, 3" intermediate pipe, SS
Hand Made Tips, 3 1/4" out, Accel 8.8 wires, MSD Coil, MSD Ignition Module,MSD 6A Box, Air Intake Temp Guage, Brushed Aluminum Hood Pins
Currently Working On:
T5 swap
Next to buy:
Slp dual cold air intake!

 

sketch out the tool you need to get it,show it to a "real" tool shop and if they don't have it then you better see the patent office.

 

I used a 12" 3/8" drive extension and a swivel. No problem.

 

Same here.

 

Same here.

 

The pedal swap is the most pain in the **** job i've done on any car i've worked on.

In swapping in my clutch/brake pedal assy, I was able to get at all the bolts with just a few different lengths of 3/8 extensions and a u-joint.

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82 T/A 305/TH350; soon to be 350/T-5

 

Drop the steering column and use a LONG extension with a deep socket and a swivel.

It's a PITA but it's still cake compared to pulling a heater core.

 

I did mine last week and agree it is a big PITA. Along the lines of a gas tank removal. I ran to Sears for a 1/2" to 3/8" drive adaptor. Then I could use my 1/2" drive metric sockets with the 3/8" drive universal and extension. Keep the wife and kids out of the garage while doing it. They shouldn't have to hear those words. You will quickly forget about the pain of it after the pleasure of the T5 or T56. Good luck, Lon.

 

I forgot to mention. The time to cut the hole for the clutch pedal linkage through the firewall is while you have the automatic pedal set and brake master cylinder out. E-mail me if you are still having problems. I can make you a template for cutting in the clutch linkage through the firewall and tranny hole in the floor.

 

I had to do this over and over and over again. I got the clutch master in there, misaligned, so i had to keep replacing it until i fixed it....DOH!
i always took the gas pedal out real quick, took the driver's seat out, layed on my back and used a 15 mm combo wrench to get the nuts off the booster studs. sounds like the extensions and swivels are a better idea! i'll try that next time, hope there is no next time!
clem

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The world is full of stupid people...and I am no exception.

'83 Z28 5 speed (regrettably with T-tops)
'83 Z28 No T-tops (regrettably automatic)

 

I've done this swap twice. The first time I did it the wimpy mickey mouse way and didn't drop the column. That took me over 5 hours to get all the bolts out. The second time I removed the steering column completely and in about 5 hours I had the complete pedal swap complete including master cylinder mount and cut.

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1984 WS6 Trans Am Hartop
Former L69 Car under restoration
1984 WS6 Trans Am T-top car
4-bolt main 350, headers, Holley 650, T-5 and 3.23's.
Daily driver and restoration

 

You guys are making this too hard!

Just unbolt the five bolts from the brake pedal mount. I actually used my spark plug socket with a swivel on two of them. Then undo the push rod and pull it out. Leave everything else alone. Don't unbolt the steering column. Put the new brake and clutch pedal set in and bolt it up. Now you have an EXACT pattern to dril for the master cylinder. Jus put your drill through the two mounting holes and drill LOTS of little holes in the center for the cylinder to go through. You can reach the bolts for the clutch cylinder without moving the brake booster.

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88 firebird formula
350 Vortec TBI
214int/224exh, .471int/.491exh
Edelbrock headers
SIX-speed
Eats LS1's with a 2.73 open rear and 2 1/4 stock catback

My Formula

 

I have to agree about putting the pedals up and then drilling. When I did my second one it turned out so much easier and perfected this way. The first one was rather much a hackjob as padding tends to move over the years. If you do drill a bunch of little holes make sure to smooth it out with a dremel. I found it much easier to mark 4 pilot holes and dremeled ith from the back (master cylinder pushed out of the way). I wish I knew what 5 bolts he was talking about. If he is talking about removing the brake pedal then the 4 on the master cylinder I see, that's the way I did it the first time. But like I said, much, much, easier just to drop the column plus being able to work from both sides makes it much cleaner.

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1984 WS6 Trans Am Hartop
Former L69 Car under restoration
1984 WS6 Trans Am T-top car
4-bolt main 350, headers, Holley 650, T-5 and 3.23's.
Daily driver and restoration

 

he's talking about the bolt that goes straight up as the 5th bolt, I believe.

clem

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The world is full of stupid people...and I am no exception.

'83 Z28 5 speed (regrettably with T-tops)
'83 Z28 No T-tops (regrettably automatic)

 

Oh, totally forgot about that bolt. Doh.

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1984 WS6 Trans Am Hartop
Former L69 Car under restoration
1984 WS6 Trans Am T-top car
4-bolt main 350, headers, Holley 650, T-5 and 3.23's.
Daily driver and restoration

 

Yeah, sorry about that. The top bolt is the one I was talking about.

I'm still confused as to why you guys think it's easier to drop the column. I could get to all four bolts easily. Are you saying to drop the column because the accelerator is connected to your brake pedal, because mine wasn't.

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88 firebird formula
350 Vortec TBI
214int/224exh, .471int/.491exh
Edelbrock headers
SIX-speed
Eats LS1's with a 2.73 open rear and 2 1/4 stock catback

My Formula

 

my accelrator isnt either..i think since they have 82-85 cars the pedals changed sometimes before 88 i believe if i recall?

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Flowmaster 80 series, Random Technologies Cat, 3" intermediate pipe, SS
Hand Made Tips, 3 1/4" out, Accel 8.8 wires, MSD Coil, MSD Ignition Module,MSD 6A Box, Air Intake Temp Guage, Brushed Aluminum Hood Pins
Currently Working On:
T5 swap
Next to buy:
Slp dual cold air intake!
-------------------------
My Site:
www.geocities.com/firebird89white

" I'd rather run last in a full out race, than to NOT run at all ".

 

I'm prety sure they are all the same for thirdgens. I actually got my set from a 94 camaro when I did the swap and it had the accelerator connected so I just cut it off and left my original one untouched. I believe only the fourth gens have the accelerator attached. Other than that you can swap any 3rd or fourth gen pedal set.

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88 firebird formula
350 Vortec TBI
214int/224exh, .471int/.491exh
Edelbrock headers
SIX-speed
Eats LS1's with a 2.73 open rear and 2 1/4 stock catback

My Formula

 

Yeah. I said the same thing when everyone told me to drop the column "Why??" it was actually alot easier for me and I do hope you're doing this with the driver's seat out. I tried doing it once with the driver's seat in and me with all the blood rushing to my head.

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1984 WS6 Trans Am Hartop
Former L69 Car under restoration
1984 WS6 Trans Am T-top car
4-bolt main 350, headers, Holley 650, T-5 and 3.23's.
Daily driver and restoration

 

I took the drivers seat out and I only unbolted the 2 nuts that hold the column up to the dash. Took like 5 more minutes rather than be a contortion artist try to manuver around wires.

James

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If the women don't find you handsome they should at least find you handy
Aftermarket T-56 (pain in the A$S but worth it)
Lots of things to do still