Transmissions and Drivetrain Need help with your trans? Problems with your axle?

Need info on C clip eliminators....

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Old Jan 4, 2001 | 07:11 PM
  #1  
Jester's Avatar
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From: Homestead, Fla
Need info on C clip eliminators....

I've seen them advertised...but never pictures or anything. How do they work exactly? Where on the rear do they attach? what other mods are needed to run them? how much $$$ do they run?

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"American made baby. 100% American iron. The muscle among the masses. My hero. Yep, you can take your ergonomically designed, space age, computer controlled, 4 door, cup holding map lighted split double wishbone split fold down retractable cargo covered moon roof piece of transportation and keep it. For I have felt the thunder. And I know the difference!"
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Old Jan 4, 2001 | 08:36 PM
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From: 51°N 114°W, 3500'
Car: 87 IROC L98
Engine: 588 Alcohol BBC
Transmission: Powerglide
Axle/Gears: Ford 9"/31 spline spool/4.86
First of all I've never seen them for the 7.5 diff.

To install them you need to cut off the extra lip from the axle housing around the seal and remove the stock bearing. A flange needs to be welded on to the end of the axle for the retainer to attach to. The retainer and an outer seal are installed on the axle then a bearing is pressed on. The retainer is bolted to the flange. It's similar to a 9" system but the new bearing is in the retainer, not in the housing.

The reason for getting one is in case the end of the axle that the c-clip uses to hold the axle in breaks, the axle won't come out of the housing. A rear disk brake does the same thing. The caliper fits over the rotor which will hold the axle in if the c-clip breaks off. If the axle itself ever breaks it should break at the weakest point and thats at the base of the splines. Again it won't fall out. If a axle breaks on the outside near the bearing then nothing will keep the wheel from coming off except the fenders.

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Stephen's racing page

87 IROC-Z Pro ET Bracket Race Car
383 stroker (carbed) with double hump cast iron heads and pump gas
454 Big Block buildup now in progress for the 2001 racing season

Best results before the 383 blew up
Best ET on a time slip: 11.857 altitude corrected to 11.163
Best MPH on a time slip: 117.87 altitude corrected to 126.10
Altitude corrected rear wheel HP based on power to weight ratio: 476.5
Best 60 foot: 1.662

Racing at 3500 feet elevation but most race days it's over 5000 feet density altitude!
Member of the Calgary Drag Racing Association

87 IROC bracket car, 91 454SS daily driver, 95 Homebuilt Harley

[This message has been edited by Stephen 87 IROC (edited January 04, 2001).]
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Old Jan 4, 2001 | 08:45 PM
  #3  
Jester's Avatar
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From: Homestead, Fla
yeah..I know it's unneccesary with my current rear.

I was asking for an idea I had about a custom home-built rear...which would need them. don't ask

Thanks man.

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"American made baby. 100% American iron. The muscle among the masses. My hero. Yep, you can take your ergonomically designed, space age, computer controlled, 4 door, cup holding map lighted split double wishbone split fold down retractable cargo covered moon roof piece of transportation and keep it. For I have felt the thunder. And I know the difference!"
JSP Motorsports
ICON Motorsports
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Old Jan 5, 2001 | 06:09 PM
  #4  
ede's Avatar
ede
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From: Jackson County
the ones for a 8.2 10 bolt will work, you just have to transfer a couple of hole locations and drill and tap, or use nuts. man jester do i know everything or what?

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